joey s studio build

rod thank you for such a fast reply and the help. i am having trouble finding what the humidity load etc is in london uk. i fully understand the importance of this information as i already have mold on the plywood celing. :oops: this is great news that the exchange chamber will be big enougth now i can get the concrete slabs poured. would the advised inline fan specifed by your self change dependent on the humidity or just the unit itself?. and also is this what you mean by duct work (see attached.) yellow =through the wall ac unit. blue =inline adjustble fan exhausts. red =silencers green = duct s for air return. white = fresh conditioned air supply. ps sorry for drawing as i am not very good with sketch up.

joey wrote:

i am having trouble finding what the humidity load etc is in london uk. i fully understand the importance of this information as i already have mold on the plywood celing. :oops:

This should be as simple as paying a mechanical engineer a few pounds to answer the question.

would the advised inline fan specifed by your self change dependent on the humidity or just the unit itself?.

just the unit

and also is this what you mean by duct work (see attached.) yellow =through the wall ac unit. blue =inline adjustble fan exhausts. red =silencers green = duct s for air return. white = fresh conditioned air supply.

put the duct return/supply at opposite room corners in the iso-booth - the way they are now will cause them to short cycle - little or no air movement in the room itself you need to develope fresh air into the chiller room itself too -

ps sorry for drawing as i am not very good with sketch up.

Looks just fine to me - don't worry about it beyond that . Rod

rod thank you for your help once again. ''you need to develope fresh air into the chiller room itself too - '' would this be done by the through the wall unit? or were you refering to how the flow and return ducts would be positioned in the chamber so not to run a short cycle thus recirculating the exhausted air.? everything else is crystal clear :D thanks joey

Hi Joey - (Quick chime in that's relevant to you!) Akai MK49 is on my shopping list bro', you'll love it! Regards, Lou. 8)

cheers lou :D

hello 16mm swa cable for power with 100amp switch fuse at the house and consumer unit at the studio side. hard core and sand is in and compacted for the floor. 5 ton of hard core 3 ton of sand. next form work for slabs, rebar grid and concrete pour. hopefully next week. heres a few pics. thanks for reading joey

few more pics

more pics

hi all i fitted the form work the other day. today i cut the steel for the floors. added the dpm and bricks for risers. (however some one nicked about 35 bricks off my drive so i could only do the controll room floor.) and i fitted the fascia boads. i need to get some tie wire and some more bricks. hopefully ill have a few people to help barrow down the concrete next week. heres some pics thanks for reading joey

just to let yall no delays delays cant get the concrete sorted until first week of march, because i will be doing it on my own if i do it before. just cant wait to star getting stud walls and plaster board (dry wall) up now. joey

Hey Joey. How deep have you laid your electric cable and can I ask how much its all cost ? My studio will be approx 130ft away from my house and I'm trying to work out costs. I've hired a self-drive digger to dig my footings in a few weeks, and need to know if its worth using it to dig down for my electric cables while I have it on hire? Trouble with that is that I am months away from doing the electrics and so I'll prob just end up with a trench thats filled with water. Any pointers ?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/ ... index.html 18" deep really depends on your ground? imine was easy to dig by hand

concrete for the floors c35mix 5.1meters £530 i had help this time 3 of us barrowing and 2 leveling still hard graft but much easier than last time. next i will remove the forms and fill expanding foam and caulk the gaps. heres a pic i will post some more of it dry

hi people. i have a problem. :oops: mold. where i am trying to build my outer shell air tight i dont have any air flow on the underside of the roof. and where i dont have a door yet i think the out side air is condensating on the underside of the roof. this problem started before the floor went in and i thought it was due to that. but what i want to know is when the room is finished will i get a condensation problem having no air flow between inner and outer leaf ? please see diagram below to understand what my aims are. any ideas welcome. joey :D

Hi Joey It maybe be different for you as yours is a flat roof and mine is a pitched, but when i had the building inspector come round a month or so ago, i had a lot of condensation building on the membrane under the tiles. He noticed that my roof had no ventilation and when i described to him what I was doing wrt room within a room, he said that he wanted me to put ventilation to the outer roof. What I have done is every 300mm put in a soffit vent which in fact almost within 24 hours cleared up the condensation problem. You might also want to consider something like this, and also get some treatment on the mold once you've sorted out ventilation

cheers johnp does this lose you isiolation? i know usually you have ventilation in roofs but what ive researched is the outer and inner leaf should be air tight. but because the 2 leafs get no air at all from in the room or out side i didnt think you would get this problem. when the room is finished the void between the inner and outter leaf will be sealed air tight. the inner room will have mechanical ventilation so there will be no condensation in there but im not sure whether or not the sealed void will condensate if there is no air coming in or out. does anyone out there know?

...but im not sure whether or not the sealed void will condensate if there is no air coming in or out.

I think you already have your proof. It isn't specifically movement of air, the external climate and the internal climate can create condensation. The warm air moving towards the cold air. You can kill the mold by spraying bleach onto it. Please wear goggles and a face mask and long sleeves when spraying as this can be very hazardous to your health. Another thing I would look into if this was my building would be to seal the outside. Regular block is very porous and can act like a sponge. It can suck in water and hold it in the blocks. When you consider that rain water spills over the edge of your roof and then just waterfalls onto your existing blockwalls, this is an area that requires attention. hth,

thank you for your reply ''I think you already have your proof'' im not so sure. as this problem started when there was no floor. i have already cleaned with bleech and so far it has not returned approx 3 weeks. and the inner leaf is not there yet. the outer leaf walls are damp proof sealed on the inside and i will be adding a water proof render to the out side. if i filled the void between the inner celing leaf and the outer celing leaf with fiber glass and it was cealed tight there would be no air to condensate? im not sure if im beeing clear or am just getting it all wrong. i mean how would you have a cealed outer leaf otherwise?

Hey Joey, Actually code in the Sates is to ventilate. Mechanically or by way of vents alone. Reason being the slightest bit of moisture can cause dry rot and or mold if it has the chance to build up. What I ended up doing was to build two Silencers and installing a fan in one of them. Installed at opposite ends of the building. Put grates over them on the outside so no bugs or birds could call it home. That way the area in question would get fresh air moving through it. And in the summer it helps vacate the air beween your walls and ceiling which will get very warm and makes it hard to cool the working space. Hope that helped Peace Tom

Hi Joey With regards to Isolation, the answer for my build is putting in vents would make little to no difference. My construction has standard uPVC facia and soffits, which would be pretty useless for isolation anway. What i'm in the process of doing is beefing up that outer layer, which is the standard pitched roof joists, by boarding out the loft area with 18mm flooring board above which i'm hanging RW3 traps. This will then be beefed up with two layers of 12.5mm plasterboard from the inside (as per Rods book) pior to building the inner room which will have a completley independant ceiling (ie joists resting on the inner frame wall) I think its effectivley similar to what you are doing. The difference is that the building regulations inspector mandated that i provided ventilation to the outer roof...period. cheers

thanks guys its easy enougth for me to ventalate so ill crack on with it. what every one has said makes perfect sense to me thank you for your replies. tom answered my next question which was going to be if you vent the celing void you would also have to vent the wall void. joey.

Looks good man. We share the same name so I know you did a good job! :D - Joey S