*Concrete guys here NOW need question answered ASAP

Thanks for the encouraging words Rod. Speaking of 1/2 full... Not to beat a dead horse, but one of the 2x8's used for forming got stuck between 2 slabs- they weren't able to get it out. It's located just inside the garage door. (see pics below) He offered to jackhammer the mini-slab and repour but I didn't want the vibrations to compromise the integrity of the larger slab or any other accidents to happen so I told him to forget it. So now I have to deal with it. They got the top 1/2 of it out just by ripping it out piece by piece with a hammer and wedge, chisels, etc. but the other 1/2 is still in there. I thought I could leave it there- I'm not worried about sound transmitting to the driveway- but just realized I shouldn't as it could attract termites...dang! I'm trying to figure out the best solution for THIS problem now. I don't know if I should drill some holes and have it treated with termiticide, have him come back to jackhammer and repour like he first offered, or get a wood boring drill bit and continue tearing it out piece by piece. Any suggestions? BTW- I'm going to have the gaps treated with termiticide like Keith did.

Sure, soak it with kerosene and then burn it out - and yes I am serious....... it works..... Rod

I would certainly be willing to try that on a commercial job site...but at a residence? I'm afraid it might be unsafe and attract too much attention. Especially without experience or details.

Try this first. I had a couple of forms that were difficult to remove, and this is a variation of what worked for me. Drill four 3/8" holes all in a row into a piece of 2x4 -- two pairs, each pair two inches apart, with about six inches between the pairs. Drill four 3/8" holes into the form board close to an end, using the 2x4 piece as a template. Insert four 1/2" x 6" (or so) long lag bolts and washers into the 2x4 piece, then through to the form board, allowing a generous gap between the 2x4 piece and the form board. Place a couple pieces of scrap 2x4 or a scrap piece of 4x4 on the old concrete in the doorway as a fulcrum. Insert a long steel prybar in the gap between the form board and the scrap piece in the area between the two pairs of bolts. Rest the prybar on the fulcrum, then push down on the bar, which will (hopefully) raise the form board without yanking the lag bolts out of their holes. The reason I suggest using four bolts instead of two is that the more bolts you have, the less pressure each bolt will be carrying, thus reducing the likelihood of pullout. If it fails, try again with six or even eight bolts. The kerosene idea is a good one, as long as one is careful. Hopefully that fuel won't cause too high of a flame. Maybe experiment with a small area first...? :roll: --Keith :mrgreen:

Thanks Keith.

soak it with kerosene and then burn it out - and yes I am serious....... it works.....

Oh I'm sure it works and F's up your new concrete at the same time. Have you ever taken a weedburner/torch to concrete and held it there. It will start popping. Due to the air pockets and moisture in concrete expanding from the heat. Pry it out like Keith said. It has moisture in the wood so it is slightly swollen. Careful not to chip the edges since the concrete is so new. http://www.promat-tunnel.com/en/concret ... tests.aspx S[/quote]

spiderz wrote:

soak it with kerosene and then burn it out - and yes I am serious....... it works.....

Oh I'm sure it works and F's up your new concrete at the same time. Have you ever taken a weedburner/torch to concrete and held it there. It will start popping. Due to the air pockets and moisture in concrete expanding from the heat. Pry it out like Keith said. It has moisture in the wood so it is slightly swollen. Careful not to chip the edges since the concrete is so new. http://www.promat-tunnel.com/en/concret ... tests.aspx S

[/quote] supose that coud be a problem if the concrete is not fully cured - although I haven't experienced it - but I will modify my recommendation by suggesting that he wait 28 days for the concrete to cure to the point where this would not be an issue. BTW - S, I was glad to see you come back to post - I noticed in your profile that you are an engineer in construction - and assume you must have missed my previous response to your earlier post - so I ask you again what the sources were for the statistics your were providing us in that earlier post? I really would be very interested n reading the article (book?) that the data came from - apparently I have to rethink some of my concepts based on that data......... Sincerely, Rod

I'm leaving the stuck form right where it is. The exterminator came out today for a termite treatment consultation- they're just going to drill through the stuck piece of wood to treat the that particular area. Works for me. I'm going to update my official build thread and we can continue discussing there.

I really think that leaving it in place is bad news. Not only does it attract termites over time (remember, the termiticide treatment only lasts five years or so, maybe longer, but it's not permanent), it's also probably bridging your isolated slab so that it's no longer isolated. --Keith :mrgreen:

spiderz wrote:

I am cautious of posting here becuase if you say something against these guys you tend to get flamed.

spiderz, your comments (as are everyone's) are always welcome, as long as they're stated in a respectful way and add value to the discussion. One doesn't even need to be correct all the time -- heck, I often make errors, and others are not shy to step in and set me straight -- which is a benefit to everyone. "Flaming" is not tolerated here by anyone. Challenges on the merits of advice given or statements made are par for the course here and are encouraged in the spirit of continual education. I think some of us will be quick to admit that we sometimes do get a bit impatient with people who make authoritative statements about subjects, especially relating to safety issues, without citing legitimate examples or sources, but we don't accept flaming... And if flaming does occur, it's contained and extinguished pretty expediently. --Keith :mrgreen:

Thanks Keith. Good point. I'm still going to try. It may have been swollen with moisture from the concrete and my spraying- hopefully as it dries it may shrink and I can get it out of there! As far as loss of sound isolation goes, it connects to the concrete driveway- I think it would be a non-issue- but like I said I'm still gonna try...

Heck - you can always take it out with a large wood chisel a piece at a time if you want........