Hockey anyone?

so, I was going by my local sporting goods store and obsessing over the new studio when like peanut butter hitting jelly, I think...why not float a floor with hockey pucks? They are .99 a piece and can be found at any old wal mart. well? what do you think?

Never measured the Durometer of a hockey puck, but I think that in order to survive a hockey game they would need to be too hard for proper compression in a studio floor... Steve

is there a home made test I could do for this...put my finger under it, hit it with a hammer or something :) I have managed to find Mineral wool (although it is an hour and a half from me), I have found 703...but reasonably priced neoprene...nuffin.

Check out this thread for a bit of "how" - http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=839 And this one for a possible source of neoprene, etc - http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=899 Any local sources you find, please post in the Materials section for others... Steve

Mmmmm, hockey pucks.... :D I agree that material in official hockey pucks would be too hard to float a floor on. But the suggestion made me think of the sponge pucks that we used for street hockey years ago - before the advent of the orange road hockey balls that I see everywhere now. Anyway, they're the same size and shape as the standard puck but they're made of dense foam rubber. Since a puck is 1 inch think I suppose they could be cut in half. You could check for them at your sporting goods store - and I'll post if I find them up here. Paul

Paul-Doug wrote:

Anyway, they're the same size and shape as the standard puck but they're made of dense foam rubber. Since a puck is 1 inch think I suppose they could be cut in half. You could check for them at your sporting goods store - and I'll post if I find them up here. Paul

The perceived elasticity can vary based on the load. A "real" hockey puck can be compressed if you put on 2000lbs of pressure. Of course, having them a foot apart under a floating floor eliminates the chance of that weight being on any given puck. However, there are other ways around such things - instead of having a crossover point of 2x4's resting on the puck, you drive into the underside of the 2x4's a hammer-in threaded collar, then screw in a carriage bolt, facing down, at the puck. What we have scientifically done here is convert a wide, even load into a point load (the center of the rounded head of the carriage bolt). This will increase the perceived weight on the puck, right in the very center of the puck, and probably would be good for a floating floor. Just an idea, no warranty expressed or implied. I'd love for someone to try it, and think its wonderful however, because it looks good on paper to me.

BTW, cutting hockey pucks is easy on a bandsaw. You wedge the puck on its edge between two 2x4's, clamp, then feed the puck into the bandsaw. This way your fingers are safe. Just don't nick the clamps though, sparks bad.

I am convinced and willing to try it if you can shoot me a diagram.

Before you waste a lot of time building something that is unlikely to do what you want, please check the links in Building materials here, and look harder for 1/2" 60 durometer neoprene - otherwise, you'll very likely be unhappy with the results. Please re-read this thread http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=839 and look here - http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=984 If you insist on trying hockey pucks, try and set up a test as I outlined in the first link - you could make ONE of the brackets I drew in the second link, and find out what kind of weight it takes to compress your puck by at least 20-25 %, then calculate the entire weight of your room (the part that will be floated, including walls if they are on top of the floated floor) - read the threads, I think most of it is explained there - If you're not willing to spend that much time/effort, you should consider just forgetting floated floors - done right, they are very effective. Done wrong, they can actually HURT isolation and INCREASE PROBLEMS... Steve

with an ominous warning like that...I will keep looking for the neoprene :)

Aw RIGHT, another one successfully intimidated... :twisted:

knightfly wrote:

Aw RIGHT, another one successfully intimidated... :twisted:

So much for the need for a point-load drawing :)

Not so, me foin web-casting friend - by all means, draw us up a drawing - my only admonition was the hockey puck thing, and not testing load ranges... Steve

you have berated me enough times for me to want to take that path again :)

knightfly wrote:

Not so, me foin web-casting friend - by all means, draw us up a drawing - my only admonition was the hockey puck thing, and not testing load ranges... Steve

Okay, I'll draw something over the weekend. And the theory applies to more than hockey pucks too... a point load is a point load no matter what the materials are.

Keith - hoping you meant that smiley - I don't mean to be mean ever (well, occasionally) It's just that I feel really bad when someone comes here AFTER doing a bunch of things (half of which are exactly WRONG) and I have to tell them to rip it out and start over - I've been there, and wouldn't wish it on anybody other than Saddam or Osama... Sooo, I figure that a little bit of "bullying" is the lesser of two evils... Frederic - exactement... looking forward to your ideas. You wrote, "However, there are other ways around such things - instead of having a crossover point of 2x4's resting on the puck, you drive into the underside of the 2x4's a hammer-in threaded collar, then screw in a carriage bolt, facing down, at the puck. " - by "hammer-in threaded collar", were you referring to "T-nuts"? These might work even better than my drawing on the "sticky floor" thread - for one thing, they'd be CENTERED under the load - If you pre-drilled the socket for them maybe 2" deep, it would give enough range for even pretty rough under-floors (bad concrete slabs) - plus, T-nuts are even cheaper than my idea. Only advantage to my brackets is they're a little easier to "tweak" in place, with the screwdriver slot... I'd probably still use hex-head cap screws though, especially on 60 duro neoprene - for the hockey pucks the higher point pressure might be better... Steve

I absolutley meant that smiley face...your help has been phenominal and is trully appreciated. Let me know if you get a chance to do the cad drawings on the slat resonators and absorbers too...I am delegating that project to my bass player and he is good at making cad come to life.

What is the best field hockey stick for a midfielder? I play on the high school varsity field hockey team at an advanced level. I don't know if I should be getting an elite stick because you need to have really good control, to use one, i think. What field hockey stick brand is the best for a midfielder, and what kind of head should it have? If you could also give the links to some websites that would be great. Also, if you could give the specific name of the stick that would be great. Thanks! [SPAM SIGNATURE DELETED BY MODERATOR] [Looks like the dummy spammer googled "midfield", and was so stupid that it never knew "midfield" occurs in acoustics, not just hockey... :) Hooo boy!!!! :) ]

Im not sure about that. How about a hockey stick right up you... damn spammers!!!

whahahahaa, hockeysticks. WTF!?! :finger: This is my fave stick :mrgreen:

It really is all about the wood!