Hi all,
I want to redo the floors in two of the rooms here, but could use some advice. They have been poorly floated and sound hollow. I will discuss the one room first (as this is the one I am starting to dismantle). Currently, The floor consists of concrete on grade (commercial building), then 1/2" tentest (sheet ceiling tile material), then 1x4 sleepers flat on 16" centers, then 3/4" T&G ply, then glued down carpet. There is no insulation at all between the ply and the tentest so it sounds really hollow and the ply flexes (mics wobble when you walk around :shock: ). The total height is about 2" above the slab.
I am considering doing the following... strip it down to the concrete then lay foam floor underlay, 3/4" MDF, then 1/2' MDF glued to first layer, then 3/4" plank hardwood glued to that. This should get me close to the 2" height of the existing floor, which I have to keep because of 2 sets of double doors already installed to that height.
Will this work ok, or am I barking up the wrong tree??? I am trying to get a good SOLID floor that doesn't flex or squeak when you walk on it!
The second room has the same problem and looks to be the same construction although I haven't made an exploratory hole yet to see for sure.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Regards,
Dave.
Flooring re-do question
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 8581.
why not do a nice clean structural grout to the bottom of your finished floor?
That will never make a sound.........
Rod
Hi Rod,
Thanks for the VERY speedy reply... :D
Lets see if I understand you correctly... are you reffering to pouring cement to make up the space then leave 3/4" for the plank flooring ontop of that? Could the hardwood be glued directly to the concrete?
Thanks!
Dave.
Dave, the correct term I wanted to use was Topping Bond - and yes - you pour it to the correct height - and the flooring can be glued to it - Just make certain that you give the concrete enough time to dry completly before you install the wood flooring - and then make certain to use a concrete sealer that is approved for use with your particular flooring adhesive - The manufacturer will let you know what to use...... Sincerely, RodHi Rod, Thanks for the VERY speedy reply... :D Lets see if I understand you correctly... are you reffering to pouring cement to make up the space then leave 3/4" for the plank flooring ontop of that? Could the hardwood be glued directly to the concrete? Thanks! Dave.
Hi Rod
Thanks, I will give the topping serious consideration.
Regards,
Dave.