Quick question. I am reading Rod's book and I don't see any place in it that states which R-value for the insulation would be best for studio isolation in walls and ceilings. From other sources, R-11 seems to be preferred (owen's corning website). Is there any advantages in using a specific R-value for wall/ceiling isolation? If not I'll either go with R-11 or 13, whichever is cheaper. Thanks.
Justin Madden
r-11 insulation for studio isolation
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 8530.
Justic,
for 2 x 4 walls - you get a little more bang for the buck with R13 than with R11.........
Sincerely,
Rod
doesnt this depend on how much gap as well? Say you have 10" of gap between leaves, you'd be better off using r-19 which is about 6" thick than multiple layers of r-13..that is if you are doing a full fill and not leaving an air gap.
And why not leave the air gap?doesnt this depend on how much gap as well? Say you have 10" of gap between leaves, you'd be better off using r-19 which is about 6" thick than multiple layers of r-13..that is if you are doing a full fill and not leaving an air gap.
How about stuffing between joists?
I'm going to be building my room in a basement-level room (thankfully, 11'ceilings) - and I'll be using some type of RC and 2-layers of sheetrock on the ceiling.. .but that leaves about 12-15" to stuff between the layers of sheetrock and the floor layer on the level above.
Was just about to post this question - and saw this thread.
I was actually looking at the R-38 - which is 10 1/4" thick, or R-30 - at 8 1/4" thick... is that overkill? They claim it's "high density" - but give no pcf value.
Again - using the 10" instead of the 8" will gain you a couple of decibels - and leaving the free air instead of fillling it dead full with insulation will not penalize you anything that matters......... SO use the 10 unless you pay some huge penalty - and let it be flushwith the bottom (top or bottom is exactly the same - the bottom is just easaier) and enjoy......... You real big isolation is in the mass f the assembly - adding something with almost no mass value adds little - if (for example) yu were given R19 (6") and had a double 2x4 wall with a 1" air space - I'd say use it and don't worry - BUT - it would make little sense to throw away good money buying it instead of the other. I have had people go with r13 and r19 to fill the bay complete just because they could not work out suspending the material in place such that they felt comfortable that it wouldn't sag in time - and that makes sense - but not doing it because you gain so much in iso value. Sincerely, RodHow about stuffing between joists? I'm going to be building my room in a basement-level room (thankfully, 11'ceilings) - and I'll be using some type of RC and 2-layers of sheetrock on the ceiling.. .but that leaves about 12-15" to stuff between the layers of sheetrock and the floor layer on the level above. Was just about to post this question - and saw this thread. I was actually looking at the R-38 - which is 10 1/4" thick, or R-30 - at 8 1/4" thick... is that overkill? They claim it's "high density" - but give no pcf value.
Thanks, Rod!
Certain code requirements require a full fill. I agree with everything else you stated though.And why not leave the air gap?doesnt this depend on how much gap as well? Say you have 10" of gap between leaves, you'd be better off using r-19 which is about 6" thick than multiple layers of r-13..that is if you are doing a full fill and not leaving an air gap.
I know of no code requirements that stipulate a complete fill....... However, if you have a code section that you wish to quote me (from any particular state or township, etc.) I would be happy to learn more. I gather info like that to make my posts more accurate - especially by specific locations in the US. But, in general: the code requirements for vertical fire barriers require them every 10' - not constant. Horizontal barriers are required only at each floor level (this is as specifically related to the subject matter at hand - there are also requirements for stairwells - openings at floors for duct, etc. but that is not germane to the subject matter at hand)). Sincerely, ROdCertain code requirements require a full fill. I agree with everything else you stated though.And why not leave the air gap?doesnt this depend on how much gap as well? Say you have 10" of gap between leaves, you'd be better off using r-19 which is about 6" thick than multiple layers of r-13..that is if you are doing a full fill and not leaving an air gap.
Thanks Rod!
Justin