thoughts on this door seal

hi guys, any thoughts or comments on these door seals? http://www.lorientuk.com/products/integ ... s/batwing/ fairly confident that they are the same one sold here... http://www.nonoise.co.uk/seals/adhesive.htm I have a "double" door system going up and am looking for a suitable seal.... They seem cheap and 33Db... but I dont have any idea if thats good or not?? Cheers Geoff

Geoff' They're garbage - but then - so are the others......... self adhesive stick on gaskets will eventually stop sticking - that plus that fact that they are not capable of being adjusted to fit the actiul seat of the door - nor can adjustments be made on them as things move - all make for a strong - "Dont waste your money here" vote from me. You are much better off spending the money on good quality seals from Pemko, etc........... Something like these, with multiple seals whenever possible - This is just like caulking drywall - the more layers you seal - the less chance you have of weak points allowing sound passage........ Rod

I was looking at these kits...particuarly the model 485-2 http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/prod ... l_kits.asp There's not that great an STC rating difference between the $187 kit and the $433 unit. They come with everything you need to seal the whole door. Question...(no assumptions) If I have a double door (2 doors in 2 different walls) would a kit on each door be enough for sound isolation between a control room and vocal booth?

camistan wrote:

I was looking at these kits...particuarly the model 485-2 http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/prod ... l_kits.asp There's not that great an STC rating difference between the $187 kit and the $433 unit. They come with everything you need to seal the whole door. Question...(no assumptions) If I have a double door (2 doors in 2 different walls) would a kit on each door be enough for sound isolation between a control room and vocal booth?

Cami, I have to believe you could do better at Pemko........ Rod

thanks for the reply rod. Can you see if any of these would be the sort of thing you might recomend?? Also any others out there know where to get a decent (but not bank breaing) door seal in the UK Rod basically I am after a cheap (without being useless) seal, but one that I can easily fit myself. Thanks Geoff

sorry here is the link http://www.nonoise.co.uk/seals/surfacemount.htm

Geoff, not the first one - but either of the 2nd2 would work fine...... Rod

I am searching for the seals... hopefully I can buy more direct... here is another Idea?? look any good? def better than the "sticky" ones.. http://www.ravenseals.com/domino/raven/ ... 6E0006A869

for info I ended up buying direct... well best I could as they are based in Aus... The company is Raven... I paid £93.31 for 2 sets. (thats enough for 2 doors inc extra for the bottom seal.) next day delivery.. http://www.ravenseals.co.uk these are the seals http://www.ravenseals.com/domino/raven/ ... 440027EAE9 dont mean to loose them business but they are same seals that certain "Acoustic specialist" websites in the uk sell... but cheaper Cheers geoff

my door seals arrive tomorrow.. I have hung both inner room doors and am ready for the seals... however... I have not got a plan ready for what to use to "shut" the door... i.e. I read not to drill holes in it for the latch but what should I use?? I have read about magnetic but the extra £100+ for seals means I really dont want to have to find more extra money for those.. any help appreciated... Thanks geoff

geoff_fry01 wrote:

my door seals arrive tomorrow.. I have hung both inner room doors and am ready for the seals... however... I have not got a plan ready for what to use to "shut" the door... i.e. I read not to drill holes in it for the latch but what should I use?? I have read about magnetic but the extra £100+ for seals means I really dont want to have to find more extra money for those.. any help appreciated...

Geoff, typically we use heavy duty closures on studio doors........ you could always use a throw bolt into the top jamb - and a foot bolt on the outside as the door opens to you........ BTW - just for the record - this is (IMHO) an area where people get carried away........ I have no problem with drilling a hole through a door to install a dead bolt........ in fact - if you looked at figure 1.1 in my book carefully - you can see a dead bolt installed directly above the door handle in the main room............ a dead bolt is a fairly tight package of dense mass - and as long as you use a small bore that the body just clears - there is very little room for air movement - Heck - you could even caulk around the body once installed as long as you were carefull not to get caulk in the mechanism itself...... If you do that though - just make sure to use a dead bolt that has a thumb latch on the room side of the door - you do not want someone fumbling aroung trying to open a lock with a key if ever there was an emergency............ Sinerely, Rod Rod

thanks for teh reply. so a powerful say size 3-4 door closure will close the door with enough pressure to "press" against the seals? what I am saying is I have hung a door with no holes in.. not even handles etc.. I have no need to lock it etc.. Am I correct in saying that I can connect the door closure and install the seals oh and some sort of handle on teh inside and that should be enough ... or do I still need a "standard" door handle and latch (not sure latch is the correct word)? Cheers geoff

Good question Geoff. I'll be in the same situation...

if you never want to lock the door - then you really don't need a latch...... a closure will close and hold closed a door........ especially if you have magnetic weatherstripping.......... so beyon that all you need is a pull for the outside (door opens to you) and a push plate for the inside (a push plate is always nicer than getting your bodily oils all over a nice door finish). Rod

Hey Geoff, Timely thread, thanks. Can you tell me where you purchased those Raven kits from specifically as I can't find them for that price? Cheers Craig