Must i definately, absolutely, inarguably float those walls?

Ok i've been over the floating floors debate over and over, and concensus is that unless you have exact engineering and data to construct the right floor, doing it improperly will actually make things worse. And for it seems, %95 of people building studios in the garage conversions like me, it is unnecassary for general garage band use. But, how about those walls?? Do i really need to float those too?? If so, why and how much of a difference will it make in a room in room design??? Can anyone point to a data link?

If I understand Rod in the current Floating floor thread, then in such a structure you would want to attach the walls directly to the concrete. Probably you should screw a 2x4 or a 2x6 into the floor to "map out" your rooms, with these braces screwed to concrete. Then build your framing, and mount them on top of these pieces. Then if you want a floor, you can put down thin sheets of insulation, and MDF over that, and screw those floors into the concrete. You can then install a wood floor over that. I think.... Rod?

jwl wrote:

If I understand Rod in the current Floating floor thread, then in such a structure you would want to attach the walls directly to the concrete. Probably you should screw a 2x4 or a 2x6 into the floor to "map out" your rooms, with these braces screwed to concrete. Then build your framing, and mount them on top of these pieces. Then if you want a floor, you can put down thin sheets of insulation, and MDF over that, and screw those floors into the concrete. You can then install a wood floor over that. I think.... Rod?

Well that was my plan, to do without the floating floor and just start with the base plates bolted to the slab over a sill seal. Because my slab is slightly isolated because its seperated from the foundation by age about 1/16 inch all the way through, i wasn't going to put the walls on isolators or neoprene /epdm. Wondering if is should still put the wall on pads and if how much improvement will i get??

If you're bolting the frames to the concrete (which you should, for stability, and code probably calls for it), then using pads underneath them won't help at all. --Keith :mrgreen:

sharward wrote:

If you're bolting the frames to the concrete (which you should, for stability, and code probably calls for it), then using pads underneath them won't help at all. --Keith :mrgreen:

Hey wassup Keith yeah i am bolting down all the base plates with Red Heads into the 5" slab with some added construction adhesive if i don't float them. Looks like i am not, as i am talking to Rod about it on recordings.org. I just wanted to double check my plans, but since i am doing a room in room, i guess its not essential.

I would agree that it's not essential. I disagree with the use of the word "since" in the above paragraph though. :-) --Keith :mrgreen:

This is the new plan sort of in between ideas. I will be probably using and elastomeric caulk for the base plates in lieu of floating them. I think this is a reasonable comprimise that will for the money offer some benefit (maybe slight) but not increase the time and labor to truly float them. My idea was to caulk the underside of the base plates uniformly with a bead of elastomeric and then place them on the ground on shims that could be removed after the elastomeric has cured to a pre-determined height off the slab. Then i would bolt the base plates down compressing the caulk as it were a rubber pad. The compression would be inexact, and probably exceed its compressive tolerance, but minimally it would act as a buffer for some transferance of vibrations and additional moisture guard. [/u]

I'd just use sill-seal under the plates, mainly for a thermal break. Save the good caulk for where caulk is better - perimeter seals (with backer rod under)... Steve