Floating Walls? Yes or No?

Was reading through some other threads and really did not feel clear about whether or not floating the sole plate of my studio walls would be necassary or not? I am not floating a floor, and the walls sit on an isolated cement slab. If constructing the walls directly coupled to the slab without EPDM isolation pads, will using the 1/4 gap on the sheetrock from the slab be adequate? Or should i use U-boats? Maybe i am a bit confused because others are floating floors and not using wall isolation pads there, but only on their floating floor piers?

If your cement slab is truely isolated then floating the walls isn't necessary. Just make sure that the only contact your studio walls have are with your isolated slab and (if you can) with a newly framed ceiling resting on top of your new walls. Take a look at Sharward's thread. He's doing an isolated slab too.

cyeazel wrote:

If your cement slab is truely isolated then floating the walls isn't necessary. Just make sure that the only contact your studio walls have are with your isolated slab and (if you can) with a newly framed ceiling resting on top of your new walls. Take a look at Sharward's thread. He's doing an isolated slab too.

Yes i read that thread like 4 times...lol So much to learn from it and others. I will be building a room in room, without any wall touching exterior framing. But would it be worth any effort to still float the walls on some sort of foam? I planned a vapor barrier beneath the sole plates, so is there any type of other vapor barrier that will act as a isolation material as well?? Also, i've decided not to use RC channel as part of my plan, but since i won't be floating the wall structure, would it be needed to make up for the lack of isolation material? I was going to use GG on the walls as well?

n8nod9it Maybe you should start a single construction thread so that we can follow your thinking path of question and use pics you've already posted to help us, help you. Guessing from your other thread and questions... I do not think you plan to rip/demo part or all of your garage slab out and create an isolated slab. You're existing garage slab would have been poured with no iso in mind, the perimeter of that slab directly touches every thing around it, making it not isolated. An isolated slab will not touch anything around it, there is a gap between it and other slabs, footers and/or walls. Typically inner walls will sit on a new iso slab, outer walls sit on (most likely) existing slab and footers. BUT if I'm guessing wrong and you do plan to create an iso slab (like Sharward) then we will all enjoy pics of you doing this :D Floating the walls (with inner ceiling resting on inner walls) is just as hard to figure out as floating a floor (almost). That is getting the right compression on pads which will not over do it (not having enough pads/wall to heavy, squashing pads so they are useless) or not having enough compression on pads (to many pads/wall to light and again effect is useless). A careful calculation of weight of construction is needed to figure it out and I think margin for error is about 10 to 20% (need to verify that in Shardwards thread or a post by Knightfly somewhere). U-boats: The manufacturer will not release tech specs on the product... this was in a thread recently, advice is do not buy from a company who has either not tested or will not release tech specs. SO if you're still planning on 2 layers 5/8" drywall or equivalent on each inner and outer wall, then NO floating the walls is not needed or will be to hard to figure out for a marginal gain in iso. Just use sill seal available from HD or Lowes in between slab and PT bottom plates of walls to elimate gaps from imperfections in slab and bottom plate. 1/4" gap around perimeter of all drywall "complete walls" is adequate and necessary to stuff backer rod and acoustic caulk into and obtain the best iso result from wall assembly. If you are like me, an amatuier drywall cutter, then you may want a few different sizes of backer rod to account for bad or ragged edges drywall cuts hear and there. DanF's "ode to backer rod" somewhere in his thread is a good read. BTW, floating floor is not a good idea either... unless you float concrete which is expensive. Floating a wooden deck will make the deck amplify like a drum head instead of increase isolation UNLESS you build very correctly, very well measured, planned out and use something like (memory failing) 4 to 5 layers of drywall on walls. Hope that helps. Marc

Great advice, Marc. Yeah, n8nod9it, I agree with Marc -- better to start (or resume?) a project thread and keep everything together in one place. Have you bought Rod's book yet? (Hint: The only two correct answers are: "Yes, I have it" and "Yes, I bought it and am awaiting shipment." ;-)) --Keith :mrgreen: