A wall at a time.

Started by VSpaceBoy on 24 November 2006. 7 replies.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 7594.

Hey gang, long time no post eh? :) I hope you all had a great holiday!! Quick question for the smrt ppl here.. I plan to build this:
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/files/studio_658.jpg
Eventually... yes I've run low on cash and I haven't been able to build it. So, I figured I can build it one wall at a time. (as funds become available) So, I'm going to build this wall w/ door first.
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/files/studiowall_421.jpg
I have 10 sheets of drywall sitting there ready to go. I'm going to pick up the lumber next week along with some insulation. My plan is to frame it out, then put two layers of drywall on the side of the framing OPPOSITE the studio, facing the utilities. Then fill the cavities w/ rockwool, then fabric. The door, I'll probably do what it says in Rod's book. (when it gets here :) ) To my question, I have a heat run to worry about here:
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/files/studiowalldrop_197.jpg
I'm thinking that I may have to just frame and drywall right around it, and then caulk the crap out of it. But I thought I'd check with you guys in case you had any other ideas. Thanks!! Ron [Edited inline external image references to point to images attached to a recent post. --Sharward
bumpity bump bump
I think Rod's book has some cross-section illustrations of how to handle this -- he drew up a great technique for getting your mass around ducting in a decoupled fashion. One possible snag with the plan of building one wall at a time is that building permits usually expire after a certain number of months. In my case, mine expires six months after date of issuance, but each inspection I receive automatically extends the expiration another six months. So, you'll want to pace yourself in such a way that you won't put your permit in jeopardy of expiring. In my city, an expired permit can be reactivated by paying a fee equal to half the original plan check fee, but if any building code or planning regulation changes went into effect since the original plan check, you'd be obligated to meet those newer, usually stricter, requirements. :roll: My city allows one "freebie" six month extension. I used mine already. :P Another potential problem is that it's usually considered ideal to finish all framing before working on drywall, and then when doing drywall, doing a layer on the ceiling, then a layer on the walls, then the ceiling, then the walls, etc. There are a number of threads about this technique of interleaving your wall and ceiling layers. Finally, make sure that door is big enough to move a water heater in and out. If that's a 30" door, your clearance is more like 28", especially if it can only open 90 degrees (unless you pop the door off its hinges). --Keith :mrgreen:
Thanks for the response Keith.
I think Rod's book has some cross-section illustrations of how to handle this -- he drew up a great technique for getting your mass around ducting in a decoupled fashion.
I got the book today and it does outline how to handle the run, but more of a finished product vrs what I'm hoping to accomplish. I think I can make it work though using his concepts.
One possible snag with the plan of building one wall at a time is that building permits usually expire after a certain number of months.
Well, since this wasn't going to be for any sort of use OTHER than my own rocking, I wasn't going to pull a permit for the construction. :oops:
Another potential problem is that it's usually considered ideal to finish all framing before working on drywall, and then when doing drywall, doing a layer on the ceiling, then a layer on the walls, then the ceiling, then the walls, etc. There are a number of threads about this technique of interleaving your wall and ceiling layers.
I hadn't thought of that really.
Finally, make sure that door is big enough to move a water heater in and out. If that's a 30" door, your clearance is more like 28", especially if it can only open 90 degrees (unless you pop the door off its hinges).
Hadn't though of that either. I will do just that. In fact, I found a "returned" solid core door up at the lumber store for $50 that was 34", I think I'll pick that one up. Thanks for the comments
There's no exemption from permit requirements for "personal use" construction. ;-) You'll want to check out my Permits, Codes, Licenses, and Why You Should Care sticky thread. :-) My words of wisdom on that subject are nowhere near as compelling as those of others who followed me. :-D In my humble opinion, a project not done safely and legally isn't worth doing. :-) --Keith :mrgreen:
I shall heed your warning. I wasn't going to pull a permit because that was just "one more thing" I was going to have to worry about. Ya know? Plus I wasn't going to worry about the electrical and hvac until later on. Pulling a permit means I'll have to worry about that now.. Yes, I'm just belly aching, but I do believe in the system. :roll: I'll submit for permit. (stomps feet) Thanks for the kick in the ass.
I just wanted to update my pics per Steves request that I overlooked. [Edit: The initial post uses these images now. --Sharward]
Image not preserved: StudioWallDrop.jpg
Image not preserved: StudioWall.jpg
Image not preserved: Studio.jpg
VSpaceBoy wrote:
I shall heed your warning. . . I'll submit for permit. (stomps feet) Thanks for the kick in the ass.
I'm really glad for you, VSB. 8) One thing about the permitting process, while it may seem like a detriment, is actually a benefit -- it forces you to plan everything out in advance. You'll thank me later too. ;-) --Keith :mrgreen: