Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 66.
They are Yamaha HS80'sWhich speakers are they again (w/o) me scouring your post....
Best bet is to pull the amp off the back and see what you have.... Life is full of experimentation. No experiments, no growth.Thanks for the quick response first of all, This site is a huge help ! Although i'v been up easily till 3 every night for about a week now scouring the site. Well im not sure if i want to take the amp out of the speaker. I talked to some guys today at a long and mcquade near me ( not sure if your familiar with long and mqcuade, its a massive music store) anyways, he said he simply has his studio hooked up to a power bar , and switches it all on from there. I had thought of that i just wasn't sure if it would damage any of the electronic components.They are Yamaha HS80'sWhich speakers are they again (w/o) me scouring your post....
Yeah! What the man said! Absolutely. And if you also have a subwoofer, wire it to the same switch too, even if you can get access to the switch on that one. It just makes sense to have all your speakers on one power switch. In fact, even if you have your speakers in stands, I'd still wire them all to one switch. Who wants to be running around the studio flipping speaker switches all the time? - Stuart -GO forth and mount those cabinets in some soffits. Make you a switch plate for power on and off. Use a light switch connected to a cable or outlet inside the soffit that your speakers are connected to and voila, you have external power on and off.
Either. It's a place to start, keeps you from running blind into the night. 38 percent is a starting line, keeps us from placing things like our ears and gear @ fifty percent.One question I've not been able to find a clear answer on: If I use John's design of soffit wall with Bass trapping between soffit wall and boundary wall, will I use 38% of length distance from boundary or Soffit wall when I decide best mixposition?
Some thoughts, Real quick: 1) Please read the stickies on this forum. 2) Start your own thread, instead of hijacking someone else's. 3)...and I was hoping to get some thoughts on it:
Ouch! You'll have to fix those dimentions in order to get a usable room. 4)"9' wide, 9' long, just over 8' tall":
Do you mean 6 pounds per cubic foot? WOW! That's about twice as dense as it should be. You probably should fix that. Stuff that dense wont be helping much with your low end. 5)Front wall - floor to ceiling, nearly wall to wall trap. 4" thick 6lb. density rockwool.
diffusers are useless in such a small room. Get rid of them: they'll probably only be creating lobes around the room. 6)Ceiling rear - (2) skyline diffusors (measurements to follow)
Useless. Get rid of it and replace it with something useful. 7)corners are filled with Foam -by - mail's 18" corner chunks.
Get rid of the desk. It is most likely resonating and coloring your room sound. 8)The monitors rest a top the hollow desk,
You say you want advise on soffit mounting, so you already realize why the above is all wrong... :) 9) Looking at your diagrams, your mix position is practically right in the middle of the room! And it is a square room! ooops.... 10) You didn't mention any cloud. Do you have a cloud? 11)and angled slightly upward using Auralex's mopads.
Which thread? There are dozens of soffit mount threads here! Which one are you referring to? 12)So I've read the soffit mount thread over at the John Sayer's forum. Based on the vented design posted there... (see below)
If I understand your plan correctly, you won't be maximizing your baffle dimensions (soffit front panel, surrounding the speaker) like that, and you won't be doing any absorption inside the soffit. I would correct both of those. You want the baffle as large as possible (ideally 48 inches across, both vertically and horizontally) with the speaker as close to the center as you can get it. I don't see the point of the sand, either. 13)-A lower super chunk, with the vent stack through the top. -A speaker assembly, with the vent through the top and bottom, but the rest of the cavity filled with sand. -And an upper super chunk, again with the vent stack penetrating the bottom.
No to the first part, yes to the second part. 14)Should the top assembly be a super chunk, or do you loose the soffit effect in the process?
Perhaps, but not necessarily. 15)My Yamaha monitors (HS80m) have a rear port. Does that automatically disqualify them as a soffit mount candidate?
Yes it is. So is 60. So is anything in between. As always, there are trade-offs, such as "squashing" your sweet spot and spreading your image a bit, but no big deal. If that's what it takes to make your room geometry work, then that's what it takes! 16)I've read in multiple places that the 90 degree set-up is legit.
You probably don't want to slap guys like John Sayers with a fish! :shock: Nor his very satisfied customers with their great studios... 17)>However, I've read in multiple places that the 90 degree set-up is legit. Then you need to slap multiple persons using a suitably large fish.
There is an absorber ON THE FRONT of the extended baffle, yes. But at that distance from the speaker it really isn't relevant, as the LF sound waves still "see" the baffle behind absorption, rather than the absorption itself. The further you get away from the speaker center, the less important is the density of the soffit surface (but you still need something dense behind the surface, of course). 18) Personally, for your room I'd go with soffits at something between 60 and 90°: Whatever angle gets you out of the 50% null and close to the 38% mark, comfortably, while also allowing you to center your speakers in the soffits (side to side), maximizing soffit width (as close to 48" as you can get it) and also leaving as large a center panel (vertical space between the soffits) for some major absorption there. I'd also use the lower section of the soffit for bass trapping, probably with hangers, or maybe just stuffed with rockwool. Leave a gap at the bottom (the soffit does not actually reach the floor. John recommends 12 inches): That section with the hangers would be a sealed box. The section above that has the speakers in it would be a separate box. I'd make the front panels (the infinite baffles) from something massive and dense, such as MDF, HDF, plywood, lead sheeting, concrete, etc. Given the size and location of your console, I'd be inclined (no pun intended!) to raise the speakers a little and tilt the entire soffits forwards a bit, but calculated very carefully to keep reflections off the console surface. You might not be able to do that... Then I'd treat the first reflection points with thick absorption (6" rockwool, 48 kg/m3 density) spaced a little away from the walls / ceiling. Then I'd do a ceiling cloud, possibly with a solid back if you have wall-floor flutter problems at present (do you?), and angled rearwards. Then I'd treat the rear wall with thick absorption. Then I'd build some massive superchunks in all the corners that I could get to realistically, but taking care to not suck out too much of the highs... Then I'd test the room to see what else needs doing. But that would just be me. Others might have different ideas.... FWIW (oh yeah, and I'd cover the door with absorption, too! Major bad reflections coming off that thing!) - Stuart -I guess I was confused, because in the John Sayer's forum, the soffit thread showed the bottom portion of the soffit as an absorber. It was explained as an effect to cure the bounce back from the back of the console.
I would only soffit mount your mains. You secondary reference speakers... I wouldn’t bother... Just place them in such a way as NOT to cause issues with hearing your mains. People have been bridge mounting speakers on their consoles for years. ANd we love and study those mixes....I have another Q. Does it make any sense to soffit mount all 3 pairs of speakers? Twin Focals, Dynaudio BM6 and small avantones. In this way I don't have obstacles on top of my rack/desk in front of me.