Cutting flooring nails flush for between-joist sheet-rock?

I've been trying to find some 'easy' way to trim the hardwood flooring nails that stick down in the between-joist spaces, so I can have a flush surface for the layers of sheet-rock (adding mass to outer-leaf)... These nails are HARD; they are NOT like regular wire nails; they are the rectangular sort. I have no problem with any of the other regular nails that are in the way, but these flooring nails ARE a big problem.... I was thinking that there might be some sort of cutting tool that is for this purpose? I Have tried: 1.) Hacksaw blade; doesn't cut well, and takes too much time 2.) Bolt cutters; cuts well and fast, but can't usually get a good angle to 'bite' nails (can't get perfectly flush). 3.) Grinder; cuts okay, but not very fast, and throws alot of sparks (afraid of catching something in the area on fire!). 4.) Sawzall; cuts okay, but can't really get at the nails to cut them flush. Anyone have any ideas? I was thinking that there might be some sort of end cutters with long handles (like the bolt cutters) that could be perfect for the job, but no luck so far... thanx, K

Those were probably from a pneumatic nailer...

I had to grind off a few nails that "missed" studs during my outer leaf beef-up. Slow-going is right... And, yes, sparks do fly. :? I don't know if this would work or not, but perhaps a very good quality long-handled wire cutter would cut the nails close to the surface, then you can use the grinder to smooth them and make them more flush... :roll: How far do they stick down? If they protrude less than 1/2", and if you can afford losing the height, then maybe you can use closed cell foam insulation as your first layer of beef. The nails will poke right through the surface of the foam. Then you can apply your first layer of drywall firmly against the foam. The foam doesn't breathe, so it won't act as air and you won't have a third leaf effect. It might also help a little with footfall impact noise. --Keith :mrgreen:

Keith: The 'bad' nails are the ones for the oak flooring, the ones that go through the tongue/groove area (of the oak planks) and into the subfloor, and there are a bunch of them.... They are on an angle and some come down about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. The ones that are 'misses' from the subfloor to the joists are not a big issue at all, as there are few of those and they are much softer (can even be wiggled back and forth til they snap off) I think I will call a hardwood flooring specialist and ask about 'special' tools to cut them, but I think that they will be baffled as to why I want to cut them in the first place -- don't think they ever have to do that in laying floors? K

Hey Luftweg, Your earlier post listed using a grinder. What type of blade were you using? Metal blades are cheaper, but you might want to try a continious rim diamond blade too. Both will create sparks and flying metal so safety safety safety. The continious rim diamond will eat em up. Hope this helps Bryant

I'll have to take a look again at what wheel I'm using, but I do know that it appears to be a stone-type wheel for metal, and it's about 1/4 inch thick... I'm thinking, perhaps I should use a drill with a sawblade wheel?... or maybe there is something similar for the grinder?... (I think I forgot to say originally): The sawzall I tried could cut the nails okay, but I couldn't really get at them -- or at least most of them, and the ones I could get at I couldn't cut very flush... thanx, K

Bryant wrote:

Hey Luftweg, Your earlier post listed using a grinder. What type of blade were you using? Metal blades are cheaper, but you might want to try a continious rim diamond blade too. Both will create sparks and flying metal so safety safety safety. The continious rim diamond will eat em up. Hope this helps Bryant

Hey Luftweg, When I said "metal" blade, I meant a cut-off wheel that is installed on the grinder that is intended for cutting metal. The "stone" type blade that you describe sounds like this type of blade. Try using a "continuous rim diamond blade" on your grinder. The blade itself is metal, the cutting surface is comprised of industrial diamonds. Typically this type of grinder blade comes in either a segmented rim or a continious rim. This type of blade is further categorized by its use as either, "Wet" or "Wet/Dry". You want the "Wet/ Dry" or just plain Dry. It'll make short work of those nails, probably ruin the blade but save alot of time. Sorry for the confusion earlier. Bryant

If you can't find (or don't want to PAY for) a diamond blade, ask for 1/32" thick cutoff disk (assuming this is one of the smaller, 4 or 5" grinders) - the extra thin blade will go thru steel like butter (because it's cutting so much LESS of the metal in order to reach the other side) - use a relatively light touch (so you don't nick the thin blade), wear leather gloves, a full face shield, button up your shirt (or put on a jacket, BACKWARD) so you don't end up with hot nail ends down your neck) and HAVE SOMEONE BE A FIREWATCHER all the time you're doing it, and afterward for a half-hour or more... Steve (oh, and take those open buckets of paint thinner and gasoline outside before you start :? )

knightfly wrote:

HAVE SOMEONE BE A FIREWATCHER all the time you're doing it, and afterward for a half-hour or more... Steve (oh, and take those open buckets of paint thinner and gasoline outside before you start :? )

I was actually thinking it might be a good idea to 'moisten' the area a tiny bit with a spray bottle filled with water -- just to kill the absolute dryness that it is now.... Could also give it a shot of spray after finishing grinding in that area to be sure... (the biggest worry is the tiny gaps that are between the subfloor pine planks, above the joists, and below the oak floor -- if the subfloor were plywood sheets, there would be far fewer gaps for sparks to hide). I think I'll also keep either a bucket of water, or waterhose handy... just in case.... Got the full face shield already, now just need to get that cutoff blade (and yes it is a 4 inch grinder)... thanx, K