SOUND-DEADENING BOARD

for a better idea of what I am doing. 1. Temp. location for studio(12-18 mths). 2. $1000 budget 3. Garage door stays in (closed position). looks like regular home from the outside. main 3 goals that I will not change. with the help from you guys I'm right on schedule. Thanks. I plan to build this studio design(thanks John S.) but on a large scale( larger rooms) at a commerical location in the near future using the double wall construction and metal studs: http://www.saecollege.de/reference_mate ... s%202..gif

1. You should never (in any reasonable cost wall) use more than ONE air space. Insulation is considered an air space in this case. Sooo, if you've SEALED your garage door, that is your first MASS in your mass-spring-mass wall. If it's not heavy enough, you should either add more mass, or ventilate it so it's not there acoustically.

Gotcha :wink: on the one air gap and the weak sound board. I also thought about this before and I was right and just didn't know it :D Of coarse you know that the areas left, top, and right of the garage door(thin non-isulated metal door) is constructed like the rest of the house. The floor is 8" slab and the The front wall is framed and still on the floor ready to be raised into place :) The garage door is not really sealed real good. IT has a nice rubber seal at the bottom that I will also seal with acoustic caulk and a rubber flap(water stopper) around the rest of the door on the outside. I cramed the small gaps around the door with insulation. The ceiling guide tracks have been taken down but the wall tracks are still up holding the garage door in the closed postion. I can push the new front wall up against the tracks????? :?: I did plan you use 5/8 drywall on one side and 1/2 drywall on the other with the sound board or RC's for all my walls, but..one question about the "Dip" thing. Is it better to allow a little on each freq. through(2 sizes of drywall) OR allow a lot of one freq. through(1 size drywall)? If I can get a STC of 50 with all the outer walls I would be happy(temp studio location).

One of the reasons why the RSIC-1 clips give you 7 STC points more than standard 2x4 walls with resilient channel has little to do with the materials of the clip itself, but rather that they add over an inch to the air gap, and make room for R-19 instead of R-13.

WHy not use neoprene pads or 1" thick rubber strips with the RC? Has any one every tested a wall with neoprene pads/rubber strips and drywall screwed into wood studs(no RC)? Just an idea :roll: Seems to me like rubber would absorb more vibrations then metal. :?: Thanks

Docta'J, I can see now that what I wrote about the RSIC-1 clips is very misleading. I should have said, one reason the clips have a higher STC value is the increased air gap they create. Another reason is the fact that the rubbery part of the clip that touches the stud has 12 tiny feet, so there is less contact at that point. Yet another reason is that when you use the RSIC-1s with the hat track, you only have to attach to every third stud. Less contact points means less conduction. So, J, to answer your question, neoprene pads aren't cheap either, you would need 3 times as many as you would need RSIC-1s, so the costs aren't that different, and the RSIC-1s are already proven to work better. Screwing drywall through neoprene into studs still has a direct connection between the drwall and the stud, so that won't work. In the RSIC-1, you've got a metal screw going through a ferrule (a little metal cylinder) that holds the rubber against the stud, and the rubber holds the hat track. So the drywall only touches the hat track being held by the rubber, it doesn't touch the studs. Lee

Guys, here is by far the best explanation of wall performance I've seen to date - http://www.domesticsoundproofing.co.uk/tloss.htm they are only very gently trying to sell their products, like their "soundmat" which is actually several times cheaper than similar products at places like Acoustical Solutions, Auralex, etc... J, please pay attention BEFORE you tip up that wall - IF you're putting wallboard on BOTH sides of your 2x6 frame (and you should) then DO NOT, repeat DO NOT, seal that garage door. Just leave it as is, fasten it so it can't be opened, but DON'T CAULK IT !!!! You might want to fasten some black 6 mil plastic over the window panes so they reflect from the outside, making it harder for anyone to tell what's inside. No, I wouldn't push the new wall right up against the garage door - both sides of the new wall need to be free to vibrate at their own separate resonant frequencies, or it screws up sound isolation. I'd leave at least a 1" gap there. As to spreading out the coincidence dips, DO IT. Check out the above link and you'll see exactly why... Steve

Hmm their soundmat is a thermoplastic. I wonder.. I will check a local supplier tommorrow to see if they carry such a product.. They are a major automotive supplier. I am working on my live room and got all the neoprene I needed for (drum roll) $25.00 and still had some left over..... :) Will check out this plastic thing. Here is a Question, I notice with their design of a room in a room, the AFB is on placed physically on the outer wall instead of between the studs of the new wall. Any Ideas?? I am curious as I start the wall construction probably tommorrow. And what thickness is that material I wonder??? I was considering either 2" or 4" Wool. Obviously 2" is cheaper ($2.00 per 2x4 slab for me) Any Ideas??? Bryan Giles

"I notice with their design of a room in a room, the AFB is on placed physically on the outer wall instead of between the studs of the new wall. Any Ideas?? " - You lost me - what page, and which diagram, are you referring to? I saw nothing about a RIAR (room-in-a-room) on the page I linked to, and nothing wierd on insulation. I think their stuff is about the same as Auralex SheetBlok, just a limp-mass layer... Steve

Here yah go steve

OK, gotcha - same site, different page - keep in mind that they did refer to that dwg as "basic" - in this case, I think the reason they put the batts against the outer wall is because there's no practical way to get them up against the inner panels for damping when you're building "inward" from existing walls. Then again, their high-priced "sound mat" stuff (aka soundblok, aka mass-loaded vinyl) would improve damping somewhat. Mainly I think they just couldn't find a way to mount batts between studs and have them stay in snug contact with the inner wall leaf... Steve

Gotcha, I was concerned about it not being mounted in direct contact with the Sheetrock wall being put up. I will stick to what I know and plan, just was a different idea for me to check out. I am doing a ceiling added to my existing ceiling... Studs/Mineral wool, Dwall/Celotex/Dwall. Unfortunately it slpits an air space, but I am looking for an easy deadening apporach so I can reduce the sound of foosteps without carpeting the room above.