Hi there!
I´ve been reading the forum for some days now,
and I´ve notice that some users say that the panels should
not be on the wall but instead around 100mm from the wall.
Is this correct?
If so, what system is best to fix them that way?
I´m gonna build around 10 panels with 120x60 cm.
The problem is that I can only get panels with 4 cm thick!
I know its not much, any way I can put 2 panels inside a wood frame,
so I can get 8 cm thick at least?
Any help would be great!
Thanks
:)
Best option to fix acoustic panels on the wall?!
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 4485.
As long as the panels are not "faced" (metal foil, paper, etc on one side) you should be able to stack them up.
As to distance from the wall, I'll let someone else (that knows what they are talking about) answer that one.
len
Moderators: Can/should this thread be moved to the Acoustics forum?
Come on!
Is anyone around here with an answer?
:(
I think you may be able to expect more input on this once the thread is moved over to the Acoustics forum. I believe there are some particular acoustics-minded members who frequent that area moreso than here in the construction area.
In any event, be patient.
filete
Spacing them out from the wall, within reason, increases the LF absorbtion -- which is usually a good thing.
Rule of thumb, airspace the same thickness as the absorbing material gives a good absorbtion for the dollar, because air is cheap. With the exception of Jacques Cousteau, the french haven't started selling Bottled Air internationally yet. (I bought some bottled water this week, and I'm not quite over the disbelief that I purchased it yet)
There are four techniques I've seen:
1) frames. The absorbing material is at the room side of the frame, with an air space behind it.
2) blocks. Auralex TruSpacers are an example of this. TeaBags (from modularguy) are mounted with velcro, and 2x4 blocks with velcro on them could hold them out from the wall.
3) suspension. Cables from the ceiling. You don't want these hung too far from the wall or they become less effective. (I don't have any measurements for that statement, so I'm not sure where the transition is, or in which frequencies it applies, although I'll bet it's in the LF.)
4) french cleats. These occupy a bit of space, so end up holding it out from the wall.
16" down from the ceiling is a standard size for ceiling tiles. So there's a few examples of the same material on the wall vs 16" away from the wall here
http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
as well as several examples of absorber building techniques (links)
Yes, but should I put the panel inside the frame or glue the panel somehow at the surface of the frame to leave airspace behind!? Confused... :? And do I just fix the frame on the wall, like a normal painting?1) frames. The absorbing material is at the room side of the frame, with an air space behind it.
When I write 'frames', I'm worried that you think I mean such as those around a painting, when I don't.
http://www.bobgolds.com/TrapDave/home.htm
Yes, I was, more like this one: http://www.bobgolds.com/TrapMartin/home.htm In this example the panel goes inside the frame, but there is no airspace, this one looks more like Ethan "real-traps". I wonder how do you hang them on the wall?When I write 'frames', I'm worried that you think I mean such as those around a painting, when I don't.