Office Dividers

Hey, While looking around I came up with some office partitions and I was thinking if instead of making a wood frame for the partitioning walls could I use the office partitions as in the double wall method. The partitions would just replace the wood frames then I would use everything else as in the SAE site just as mentioned. Now would this work at least similar to the normal construction? Dont know if this helps but the office partitions comes with a .36 NRC rating.. Also would this also work as in a normal partitioning wall after some reinforcements?(stuff used to cover wood frame) Thanks ...!

Ohh by the way.. Hey Steve if you happen to read this post..... I just found out the dimensions of the room.. Its 25' x 25' x 10' and all 4 walls are made of bricks with a concrete floor. And Ill only be having a neighbor to the right of the garage my house is on the corner.

Hey xP, as far as the "office" partitions go, I'd need to know more about the way they're built - some of those are just a single absorbent panel covered with a durable, unobtrusive cloth and framed with feet so they stand up - others are thicker, with an air space between outer layers, and there are undoubtedly still others I'm not familiar with. The main thing you need to keep in mind (think "mantra" here) is that ANY deviation from a "double leaf" wall (or ceiling, for that matter) will almost ALWAYS make isolation WORSE instead of better. So, if your "office" partitions already have an air space and you put a third "center of mass" in a wall made with them, you could actually LOWER the Transmission Loss of that wall. Unless those partitions are huge (full size, ceilng height) you'd probably be better off using the partitions for Gobo's inside the studio and building your walls from scratch with a method you KNOW will work. ".36 NRC rating.. " - all this means, is that the panels are 36 % absorbent in the range of 250 hz to 2000 hZ - not too practical a criteria for a recording studio. The NRC system only looks at 250, 500, 1000 and 2000 hZ absorption. This is OK for office noise, but says nothing about the performance in stopping bulldozer noise, kick drum noise, 6-string bass noise, etc. - in order to find out what these panels do at other frequencies, you would need to test them yourself. Kind of a daunting task... If you intend to use ALL the space in that 25 x 25 x 10 area, you'll need to consider modal response - it won't be good at all with those dimensions, hopefully you intend to break it up into a control room/tracking room/iso booth kind of deal. The higher ceilings are good, the brick is good for low freq isolation (with some help from a secondary wall) - this is where you need to figure out just what you want to do, and how far you want to go with construction/design, etc. You didn't mention ceiling/roof construction, that will also need to be looked at closely if you need good isolation. Note that I try not to use the term "Sound PROOF" - that is a term that was "supposedly" coined in the 50's by the TV show, "The $64,000 Question", in order to convince people that they weren't cheating. Apparently, they WERE cheating, but the term "sound proof booth" stuck. The reality is the same as for the term, "bullet-proof vest", as well as others. Hint - you got a bullet-proof vest? I'll just get a bigger, faster bullet... Anyway, you should work on figuring out just what you want to do with your space, how much noise there is in the neighborhood during the times you would want to record, how much noise you intend to MAKE, etc - that's the only way you'll know how much isolation you need at what frequencies, and what it will take to get there from what you already have... Steve

Hey Steve. Well I decided to drop that little idea of mines LoL.. I am planning on separating the garage into 3, Control Room, Iso Booth, and a "studio" room to place the drums and everything else. The sound that I want to isolate are mainly the drums but the neighbors dont seem to mind noise, the people who live in my future home bang on the Drums(Those Korean Style Percussion.) insise their living room at night and neighbors dont mind. I dont plan on playing or doing any LOUD stuff after night so I wont be needing that big of an isolation, I just want to make sure I dont bother the neighbors. I wouldnt mind just a little sound coming out, I dont plan on getting the room to be the deadest room in the world just as long as it lowers the drum sounds. Now if I made the wood frames how would I nail it to the floors and ceilings? I dont really want to make a big permanent change because we plan on moving to another house in a couple of years(never know how many years) and not a lot of people would want a garage turned into 3 small rooms Also after the frame is done what do you cover it with? gympsun boards? Oh forgot to mention.. The brick walls are all over the house but the inside I think they covered it with gympsum. So the outside is brick inside boards.

nm got it all figured out..just took a couple of searches... Thanks for the help.. Im gonna stick to wall framing it will come a lot cheaper also.

I'm even now calculating the expense of the soon-to-be facilities, which will be twice wall structure development, which the present surfaces are usually stone surfaces. Primary, I will make use of the usual proposed gypsum board upon wood support frames, together with efficiency inside framework. However while i when compared the actual development charge throughout Indonesia, I discovered that cement-plastered stone wall structure development is actually a lot more more cost-effective than the gypsum board upon support frames together with rockwool efficiency. Nevertheless the issue is actually, and that is much better intended for soundproofing? The reason why not anyone proposed the actual stone wall structure above the gypsum/frame/rockwool for the facilities development?