Do I need hanguers ??

Started by hugo_inside on 22 May 2005. 8 replies.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 3765.

If the brown things on the bottom left hand corner of the picture are where you are indicating, then you won't need 'hangers' if you have plenty of rockwool there already. Covering with fabric is best for absorbtion (ie: making the music in the room sound better) Don't put plasterboard over the rockwool. This advice assumes that the outside walls of the room (the grey perimeter) is giving you enough soundproofing for your needs. Hope this clears things up a little.
Thanks Deluks, The grey perimerter is is made by: 200 mm concrete block sand filled rendered one side + 30 mm air gap + 40 mm 40kg/m3 rockwool and 2 plies of 15 mm sheet rock. I think it's so enough soundproofing.
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Hello Hugo, I have a question for you. I am going to be building a studio and will be using cynder block. How well does the sand filled block-air gap-rock wool- 2 laminas of sheetrock work for you? How is the rock wool and sheet rock attacthed to the block wall? could you explain when you have a moment? Thanks!!!!! John :)
Hi copper, My building is still not started, and I don't know how well will it works. You'll need steel framing or timber framing like this:
External image, not preserved — original: http://www.johnlsayers.com/Studio/Images/jverty/local17.jpg
then sheet rock is drilled to the frames. PD: Si hablas spanish enviame un mensaje privado y te contestare en spanish. :wink:
does the framing attatch directly to the cinder block wall or is it free standing? gracias :wink:
Covering with fabric is best for absorbtion (ie: making the music in the room sound better) Don't put plasterboard over the rockwool.
Is it? If you have the speakers built in to? Im just curious 'cause i remember reading many places in here to make a sealed space for the rockwool and the speaker mount... Please correct me if im wrong..
For wall frames in this case (sand-filled block, air/insulation, frame with drywall) the frames should be either free-standing or at least spaced from the block wall with neoprene isolated sway brackets. The idea is to keep vibrations from one mass from affecting the OTHER mass, this improves isolation a LOT. For the front of a CR - if you are NOT doing 5.1 surround (or 6.1, etc) then it's arguably better to use solid panels where the speakers sit; one thing that works well is to leave holes in these panels near the floor and ceiling, so the rockwool behind can be a ported bass trap. Soffits themselves are a big project to get right, there are links to Genelec's site for some help on this. If you ARE planning on surround work, then typically ALL wall surfaces would be made absorptive and any needed ambience added back into the mix with digital reverb. http://www.grammy.com/pe_wing/5_1_Rec.pdf Hope this helps... Steve