Wall insulation proyect... advice is welcome!

Julián Fernández wrote:

Which is the best way to "attach" the wool to the frame?

Julian, What stud spacing do you have on your walls.Are they in place yet or are you about to start construction? The good thing would be if the stud spacing was just a little bit narrower (10-15 mm) than the width of your wool panels, so you could pack the wool nicely in between the studs.To stop the wool from falling out at the back of the studs, you could probably stretch some "strings" (wire) across the back of the frame.See Paul's studio building pics here: (scroll down to about half the page, picture taken from behind the stud wall) http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.p ... &start=800

Should i glue the gypsum boards to the frame or use screws?

Well it all depends how you arrange your layers of drywall,mdf, etc. whatever you'll be putting on there.Read this thread, it's all about that :) http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... highlight= I would also highly recommend downloading this .pdf "Gypsum Construction Handbook"!! It's got most of things in there you will need :) http://www.usg.com/Expert_Advice/Constr ... ge=english cheers

Thanks Sen! Great info! I didn´t started the construction of the frame, so i´ll do it like you said (btw, it´s pretty logical! :roll:) Thanks for the links, they´re great! I already downloaded the manual, tomorrow i´ll start the reading! I´ll let you know if i have another doubt! :D

Julián Fernández wrote:

Thanks Sen! Great info! I didn´t started the construction of the frame, so i´ll do it like you said (btw, it´s pretty logical! :roll:)

Good.Don't start any major work untill you've got everything planned out.You really don't wanna stuff anything up, so take your time.I know we all get pretty excited about getting stuff done in our studios, but it's really worth waiting a while and knowing in advance what the next thing that you have to do will be. :)

Thanks for the links, they´re great!

I'm glad you liked the info. let us know how everything pans out. cheers

I agree with you Sen about planning everything before starting construction... That´s why i´m updating my plans every week, because i keep reading and every day i understand a little more of that great thing -designing and building my studio-. So, do u think that i have to make any changes to my walls plan? The design is the showned (brick walls coated, 10cm air gap, 10cm wood frame), i should mount the first layer using half as many screws as normal and the outer layer should have full fastening schedule used... I´ll buy 60kg/m3 density rockwool to fill the frame... Now i think that i´m ready to start thinking about the floor and how to seal the wall frame to avoid contact with the floor... Any other thing to remember? Thanks!

Hi Julian, Yeah your plan should be OK like that.You have a great air gap there 200mm :shock: that should improve your isolation rather significantly :). I'm just thinking of the rockwool density....60 kg/m3 could be ok, but I'm thinking that a bit lower density would perform better?maybe around 50kg/m3.Hope someone will chime in to give us their opinion on this one.But I think around 50 is pretty much it.Steve, anyone else? :) Julian let us know what you're planning for your floor.Might get some good ideas from you :P cheers

Julián For wall insulation, best results are with 2.5 to 4 PCF; to convert to kG/m^3, multiply by 16, so anywhere from 40kG to 64 kG will give the best results… Steve

Thanks Guys! I have another question... I decided to build John´s Wall Units... ok now, how can i know which frecuencies to absorb? I mean, i understand how to use slat to absorb and reflect, but i don´t know which frecs. i´m supposing to avoid... (CR 2,4x2,9mts. * RR 2,9x4mts) Can anyone help me? Thanks!!!

Julian, I've yet to see a floor plan - are these rooms completely rectangular, with fixed ceiling height, or otherwise? Steve

Ops, sorry. Here it is. The ceiling raises from 8 to 11 feets (wood and roofing)...

OK, are those measurements the INSIDE sizes, including ceiling height, between hard/solid surfaces? Steve

Yeah, those are the inside sizes... i mean, it´s the sizes of the naked room... (just the walls)

OK, Julian - your CR is small enough that I'd not use much (if any) in the way of TUNED treatments - better to use broadband traps in the corners (thick fiberglas or rockwool, no slats) and the same at first reflection points, like on both sides of the mix desk where you've shown them; then hard floor and a "cloud" suspended over the mix table, leaving the rest of the room bright (no absorption) til you can listen and test, adding maybe bit more absorber surface if it's too bright. Your live room, if it has to have parallel walls, should have patches of absorbent alternating on opposite walls (so the patches are not directly across from each other) - these should be anywhere from 2x2 foot to the full size of a batt (2x4 foot) and 3 or 4 inches thick; spacing them away from the wall a few inches will also help in the low mid frequency range. This (alternating wass/absorber) will treat flutter between the parallel walls, and tame the brightness a bit; it will also help some of the "boxiness" of the room from too much mid frequency. If this isn't plain, ask and I'll explain further. I would start (in the live room) by only doing two of the four corner traps you show. You can always add more if it's not enough, but there is no sense building things you don't need. You'll need the alternating absorbers on walls to kill flutter, and those will also work to bring down reverb time. Both your rooms are small enough you won't really have a "reverb time" as such, you're just trying to get the frequency response of the room more even. If your ceiling in the live room is also sloped like the CR, I wouldn't put anything on it until you've heard how it sounds in recordings. Hope this helps... Steve

Thanks KF! Something like that? I can angle the walls, because i have the brick walls, but the inside walls are undone, so i can shape them as i want... After angling the walls on the live room, should i treat them with aborbers? And, yes, the room is sloped too... maybe for stetics reasons i´ll add an gypsum ceiling, but i´m not sure... Any other thing to keep on mind?