Help! my neighbor keeps calling the cops.

My neighbor keeps calling the cops because he says the music coming from my studio is too loud. Trust me...its not. Not even the cops agree but they have to come out and they are starting to get agitated. his mower is WAY louder. I want to keep the noise level even lower just to pacify him. I have a window and two very heavy outside doors...two seperate doors that is. What he is hearing mostly is bass G. I would like to build a removable cap for the window. could someone guide me somewhere that will show me how to do this? Also if I buy two of the sound blankets that you drape over amps and hang them in front of the doors...will this help? I know that these are the weak points. Any help will be appriciated. :twisted:

Don't waste your money on the sound blankets if that's all you'll use them for - I've gotta run for now, but will post more in a day or two (long days at work) For now, if you don't already have one buy a Radio Shack Analog Sound Level Meter (about $45) and check levels (C weighted, peak) at the property line while you're making max noise in the studio, then run out and check them (same place) while the neighbor is mowing. Write both findings down to show the cops next time. Sue his ass for harassment if the levels are as you suspect :=) Let me know your general location and I'll get you some ideas for windows/doors in a day or two... Steve

I've already thought of the meter plan. I would actualy use the blankets while recording guitars too. He only bitches when I practice because practice is always louder than when I record. Recording is always done at lower levels. I would still like to cap off that window...any suggestions?

Here's one way to do it - the dimensions need to be adapted to your window - the total depth to the flange (before attaching the foam weatherstripping) needs to be exactly the same as the depth of your window frame, from the inside moulding measured to the window channel. In other words, the outer face of the plug should touch the window just as the inner flange touches the inner moulding of the window frame. Then, when you glue/stick on the foam seals at inner and outer perimeters (see drawing) you will get two full seals separated by a few inches of air space. This plug will be heavy, as it's made from particle board - sheet rock would be almost as heavy, and not as durable. Get two of the Stanley heavy duty barn door handles, at most hardware departments of either hardware or variety stores. Mount them so the long screws penetrate into the 2x lumber frame - that frame is where you adjust the total depth of the frame so that both seals contact their respective sealing surface at the same time. Mount the handles at a height that lets you grip the handles with your elbows against the front of the plug at a comfortable height when the plug is in the window - that way, you will have good leverage to insert/remove the plug. If the seals don't stay tight all around, you could install some molly screw anchors in the wall and use some brackets that rotate to hold the plug up against the window moulding. Edit, 4-2-05 - since I drew this, I've done some calculations that indicate you may get better isolation if you ELIMINATE the two layers next to the glass, and instead add one more layer to the inner mass (where the handles go) - this eliminates a 3-leaf situation, which would hurt the LF performance of the plug. Best way of doing the new plan is to use slightly thicker insulation than the depth of the space between the inner mass and the glass; that way, the insulation presses lightly against the glass and damps that panel. Even a thin glass, when acting as one leaf in a 2-leaf barrier, will work pretty well if a 4" or deeper air/insulation gap is used, along with a THICKER inner leaf (such as 3 layers of MDF) - All other details should remain the same... Steve

Hello. I need to be able to plug/close my bedroom window in order to avoid street noise when I need to make a recording but is necessary to be able to remove the plug when not working. I'm following the plug design you made in this topic but I have some doubts. What kind of foam should I use in the perimeter? (neoprene, rubber, or just plain sintethic foam???). You said that it's better to remove the outer 2 layers next to the glass and instead adding one layer to the inner mass. This means that the internal isulation should be exposed and towards the glass of the window?. Again I ask what kind of isulation should work best? (fiberglass, or thick foam???) Thanks a lot.

Sorry, somehow I missed this - yes, the inner insulation should be exposed to the glass - if you must have something more pleasing against the glass for outside appearances, it should be perforated or firmly against the glass to avoid 3-leaf problems. For sealing, any closed cell soft foam will work - its only purpose is to provide an airtight seal, so softer stuff will conform to irregular surfaces better. For inside walls (and inside window plugs) plain old spun fiberglass insulation works as well as anything, and is cheaper and easier to find in most locations. If you can't get this, then maximum 3PCF (48 kG/m^3) mineral wool or rockwool is about the same performance... Steve

Hey, I'm gonna build in window plug like this, any thoughts on using sand inside sealed box instead of insulation???? Thanx!

Here's my plan... Check it out! basically the same design as above just a little modified. I posted at record.org as well.

...this is like a very old thread.... why or where did ye dig it up?