Moving the doors towards the speakers would make them hit the desk when opening, but I could cut the rear desk corners, which looks like a feasible solution as I probably won't use that desk area anyway, and it would provide a longer uninterrupted wall space on both sides of the room. I guess when the plan is laid out in the real building I will make some simulation with different desk shapes and door positions and choose the optimum one. But I'd still keep the hinges to that side because otherwise I'd have to shut the door behind me to be able to enter the room, and I know I would hate this, especially when needing to go upstairs and downstairs often. On the topic of the back wall, the back wall itself (as all the other room walls) would be of the staggered stud type and filled with about 100 mm insulation: would this be enough or are you suggesting an additional 100 mm on top of those? When you talk about wideband angled absorbers are you referring to something like this? http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IUOYFHs0jBI/V ... arwall.jpg Thanks again!Looking much better. You could shift both doors up slightly more towards the speakers, and have the hinges on the opposite side to where they are now, which, even though won't make the opening physically any bigger, somehow seems to give the illusion of being bigger opening that way. The next thing you might consider is using at least 2' (~600mm) or more of the space in front of the rear wall for some serious treatment. Small corner traps and relatively thin broadband panels will struggle to do much good here, you need deep treatment, or thinner calculated membranes with broadband treatment in front of them. To make things simple, I would just line the entire wall with 50-100mm insulation, then put about 16-20 Wideband angled absorbers in front of that.
Old barn conversion into home studio - Italy
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 22902.
No that's a diffuser and not what I mean by the Wideband absorbers. I was referring to the hanging panels which I mentioned in my previous reply to you with the link to the paper on them. You would have insulation inside the staggered stud wall, yes, but you need some treatment without drywall in front. 600mm would be my min recommendation, but instead of a solid chunk of insulation I would use the hanging panels I mentioned. I understand the ergonomics of opening the doors the other way may be a pain for you, but, If you opened up the doors out the other way then they would actually miss the desk quite easily, I have drawn out what I meant for you but am having trouble uploading files on this site today for some reason...anyone else having that issue? Anyway, send me a message on here and I'll e-mail it over to you.Moving the doors towards the speakers would make them hit the desk when opening, but I could cut the rear desk corners, which looks like a feasible solution as I probably won't use that desk area anyway, and it would provide a longer uninterrupted wall space on both sides of the room. I guess when the plan is laid out in the real building I will make some simulation with different desk shapes and door positions and choose the optimum one. But I'd still keep the hinges to that side because otherwise I'd have to shut the door behind me to be able to enter the room, and I know I would hate this, especially when needing to go upstairs and downstairs often. On the topic of the back wall, the back wall itself (as all the other room walls) would be of the staggered stud type and filled with about 100 mm insulation: would this be enough or are you suggesting an additional 100 mm on top of those? When you talk about wideband angled absorbers are you referring to something like this? http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IUOYFHs0jBI/V ... arwall.jpg Thanks again!Looking much better. You could shift both doors up slightly more towards the speakers, and have the hinges on the opposite side to where they are now, which, even though won't make the opening physically any bigger, somehow seems to give the illusion of being bigger opening that way. The next thing you might consider is using at least 2' (~600mm) or more of the space in front of the rear wall for some serious treatment. Small corner traps and relatively thin broadband panels will struggle to do much good here, you need deep treatment, or thinner calculated membranes with broadband treatment in front of them. To make things simple, I would just line the entire wall with 50-100mm insulation, then put about 16-20 Wideband angled absorbers in front of that.
It's working today...
Also, don't forget you'll need to have automatic door closers anyway, so you won't actually need to close every time as it will close itself.
You could also have the entrance door opening out instead of in to the room, then you could have it whichever way round you like