A semi professional studio soundproofing project and help in

i would fix the door first and see what's left. any shared ventilation? otherwise isolation of the floor, if it's already transmitting just voices, could lead to an significant expense. barring the desire for cost, maybe you could try adding a layer of rebonded carpet padding with 2x MDF or cement board to create a decoupled mass barrier - but if this is structurally transferred, then the walls will also be in play.

I don't want to avoid the expense. It is difficult for me to pour extra cement for decomposed structure. Do you think it's a bad idea to raise it with a wooden frame? I can separate the walls with pads. It's ridiculous but among the expensive things here is the rebounded sponge. Rock wool is cheap. Green glue 22 euro. 1 euro = 10 liras. Too expensive for me. Wood is cheap.

what other options for a soft (relatively) non-porous decoupling? sheets of neoprene? other carpet pads? a frame floor will become resonant unless you can fully damp it (so filled with sand is one option)

I think have a rebounded foam, pa elastomeric foam, Soft quilt Fiber, Rubber products, Sheep wool, rock wool, kanuf mineral wool. How high is the separation required when I am going to decompose? Sand can be a heavy-duty option for an undercoat. There are not many options. Should the aim be in the form of damping between the mass without leaving an air gap? Would it be a bad idea to raise it 20 cm from the ground with the carcass and fill it with mineral wool? I am very ignorant about the ground and cannot find an answer.

the air gap would be the problem. the rebonded foam or recycled rubber etc are generally soft enough to be spread out and still be resilient with the added mass and equipment, people, etc. the sand - would be my last option in this case.

I understand. How is the air gap in the floor different from the air gap we create on the wall? While recording, we sit and everyone is silent. In this case, I guess the sound of footsteps will not be the source of the problem. I'm asking this to get information. What should be the thickness if we put rebounded foam? Because those sponges are very soft and the places that are pressed on will be crushed and the ground will move. The rubber you say is hard and it is not a problem. I can place it between two plywood. So do you think the floor should be + rebounded foam + plywood + rubber + plywood? Is it suitable for dumping?My friend has rebounded foam will give it to me. Also, how to join the wall edges? If I'm thinking of hiding a cable in that part. Finally, I heard that there is special very hard rock wool sold for flooring. Do you have any idea about this? I am grateful to you many times for your incredible care. Good thing I got to know you.

with the soft rubber 2cm would be good. remember - you're putting mass on top of this, 2x-3x plywood/drywall/mdf etc. so it won't be squishy under peoples feet. it will feel like a solid floor except perhaps if/when you move massively heavy things on it.

I will do what you say. I am thinking of putting rubber and drywall on it. When I put 3 layers of drywall should I put something in between for damping? I am curious about this especially pasture for walls. I think I read in Rod's writings that it might be worse to put mass without damping. What is different to use instead of green glue? Rubber, pvc, cork, elastomeric foam...

since this is a floor sitting on what will a damping later, no need to further damp between the sheets. best to put a layer of plywood or osb on the rubber layer because the drywall mass will not flex as well and could crack. putting a layer of plywood or osb on top would also make attaching carpets or other materials easier as well. so 3/4" (20mm) rubber + 1/2" (12mm) ply + 2x 5/8" (16mm) gwb + 1/2" (12mm) plywood would be a better approach.

Hello Glenn and dear forum members.. I haven't written for a while because I have to take a break from my insulation. But there is something I am curious about. I want to reinforce the walls with a sheet of drywall or osb. Is there a need for layer damping for this? Can I do this without green glue? What can I put in between for damping? Will a thin layer of rubber work?Does it get worse when I add the layer without damping? Also, should I strengthen the wall before I strengthen the floor? Is it true that drywall layers should touch the floor with a soft layer? Finally, when I add the floor layer, it shouldn't touch the walls, right? It is difficult for me to learn the answers to these questions because my English is not good. So I really appreciate your help.

I want to reinforce the walls with a sheet of drywall or osb. Is there a need for layer damping for this? No, if you double the mass you should gain 6dB Transmission loss. Can I do this without green glue? What can I put in between for damping? Will a thin layer of rubber work?Does it get worse when I add the layer without damping? Damping is not mandatory. Also, should I strengthen the wall before I strengthen the floor? Strengthen? Is it true that drywall layers should touch the floor with a soft layer? Yes, all soundproofing needs to be air tight. So a layer of Neoprene or Flexible Caulk at the floor and ceiling etc. everywhere! Finally, when I add the floor layer, it shouldn't touch the walls, right? Everywhere, nothing touches anything else.

Hello DanDan. "Also, should I strengthen the wall before I strengthen the floor?" What I called strengthening in this sentence was to add a drywall layer to reduce transmission loss. I understood what he said and thank you for the answers. Would it be a more effective solution to screw or glue drywall?

screws plus lots of caulk and drywall tape+mud. caulk is your friend. you will learn to hate caulk. but caulk is still your friend.

gullfo wrote:

you will learn to hate caulk. but caulk is still your friend.

Hahaha yes. I love the caulk, except the gun hurts my finger.

power caulk guns are your friend. renting one is usually cheap but i guess it depends on where you are as to whether or not you can rent one...

Plus one for the labour saving magic of powered caulking guns. If you're unable to rent one affordably, I would recommend buying new and then selling it on after you've finished the job. Money well spent! ATB John.

Thanks guys. I take into account what you say. Too many wrong practices are done in my country. The lack of information is too great. Acoustic companies also take advantage of this very well. Probably no one knows about the triple leaf effect in my country but me :/