Yes, unfortunately all your new isolation efforts will be in vain unless you find a solution to seal up the staircase hatch in both the outer and inner leaves. PaulHello everyone, sorry for the late answer, unfortunately I didn't have the possibility to access my computer this weekend. Unfortunately no, the staircase is a wooden staircase, "fixed" (not retractable). And moreover you will see thanks to the drawing below, that it falls right into the famous acroteria (I can fix that by making a quarter turn on the old staircase). I think I'm going to be condemned to scrap a big space, and put a door in my new box... Unless you still have some good advice to share with me.
Cellar soundproofing project
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 22490.
Hello everyone, I hope you are doing well given the health context?
I came to give you a little feedback on my work, I also wanted to thank you all for the precious advice you gave me and which helped me a lot.
Here is the result in pictures, you can compare with the pictures of the beginning of the construction site at the beginning of this topic.
I have a few questions:
1) I have to make the doors "soundproof", I thought of putting a seal all around the door frame (I'll add a wooden strip at the bottom to completely close the frame) that would be crushed by the door when closing, and upholster the doors with rock wool. What do you think about it?
2) Also what do you think of the thickness of the wall that separates the room from the staircase? I am advised to re-insulate
3) I am also advised to "coffer the staircase" (close the steps) without forgetting to fill it with rock wool.
Finally I'm going to glue the black and white foams you see in the picture to the ceiling, and put the black corner foams at the corners, and make acoustic absoprtion panels.
Thank you in advance for your answers and see you soon.
looking good. definitely add insulation into the framing (and beef up it needed) and consider adding absorbers into the stairwell as well since that can effectively become a noisy place - which will transmit into the adjoining spaces.
Thank you very much ;) (ps don't mind I haven't cleaned and repainted everything yet). Okay, I made a drawing of how I'm going to put the seal on the door frame (first 3 pictures). 1) In Green it's the wood strip that I will fix to close the frame (no gap between the bottom of the door and the floor), and in Orange the seal. Let me know if it seems coherent? 2) For the seal I used a P-profile seal (see picture). 3) For the bottom of the door I would like to use a kind of anti-noise door bottom (see picture). Also I forgot: I made myself silencers for my mechanical ventilation, it works very well, I can't be heard outside very much (not at all when traffic noise or other). I have actually gained 40 decibels compared to before insulation, but in the house I can still be heard since the doors are not insulated and the stairwell is a real reasoning box. Do you think that I need in addition to insulate the doors, increase the insulation of my wall between the room and the stairwell? Finally I was thinking of padding the doors like this with 5cm thick high density foam: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKTFhCQ0W-s Is there something more efficient or is it a good solution?looking good. definitely add insulation into the framing (and beef up it needed) and consider adding absorbers into the stairwell as well since that can effectively become a noisy place - which will transmit into the adjoining spaces.
in general, foam is limited in it's range of frequencies it will absorb effectively. if you can building 3-4" (75-100mm) thick semi-rigid insulation type absorbers for the doors, and at each end of the stair case, plus two more on the ceiling above stairs if you have the head room.
When you talk about absorbers, do you think about that? (wooden frame with semi-rigid rockwool inside?) If so, it is my understanding that they are most effective when they are not directly attached to the door/wall, but there is a slight air gap behind them. For those with ceilings, no worries: For the doors I have seen this: But at the limit I thought more about gluing the wood cleats directly on the door, fill with rock wool, and fix a wooden plank to the dimensions and cover with fabric. Please excuse me for insisting but do you think that the wall is too thin and that I should make an absorber again as I was advised? (about 15cm thick) Thank you very much ;)in general, foam is limited in it's range of frequencies it will absorb effectively. if you can building 3-4" (75-100mm) thick semi-rigid insulation type absorbers for the doors, and at each end of the stair case, plus two more on the ceiling above stairs if you have the head room.
nice absorbers!
Ah ah they're not mine, it was to see if you were talking about that but I have my answer. Just to be sure: I read that they must be separated from the partition where they are installed for more efficiency. (Air gap behind). Is this true? Then for the walls don't worry, but for the doors is this disturbing if I fix the panel directly to the door (in fact door and panel would become one).nice absorbers!