East Sussex - Double Garage build

Over the last couple of weeks I have finally started to build my studio! (design thread here:http://johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21921 ) Beginning with mundanities such as removing rawlplugs, screws, nails and other fixings from the brickwork / woodwork while marking where I need to back fill with mortar, I moved on to stripping out the old wiring and neon lighting. A temporary power supply was rigged up by an electrician, so now there's nothing preventing me sealing the existing walls. I commissioned a steel flitch plate to reinforce the existing beam and the work was carried out by a local fabricator (to an excellent standard I might add - it was engineered to millimetre accuracy). Before it could be fitted the supporting ‘pier’ needed attention because it wasn’t quite as tall as the one at the opposite end of the room . When the beam was originally installed it was levelled by packing the gap with blocks of wood(!!). So props were placed under the beam and the packing removed, meanwhile engineering blocks were cut to size and cemented in place. By tomorrow the mortar should be firm enough to take the last prop away and that’ll be the main structural reinforcement done!

Very very exciting!!!! I can't wait to see more progress. Greg

So, full of newly restored enthusiasm, I set about sealing the outer leaf walls. To do this, I intended to fill the numerous drill holes in the brickwork and then apply two thick coats of masonry paint. The filling part was easy enough and I left the mortar harden overnight. One of the mistakes I made in planning this build (it's a rapidly increasing list) was assuming that because the garage is built in to the earth at one side, this was a good thing. It has to be, doesn't it? WRONG!!!!!! For months now in SE England it has been raining non-stop, almost with no let up. Overnight it was particularly bad, really knocking down to the point that the ground surrounding my house is completely saturated (there is standing water on the lawn). Inevitably, rain water has found it's way into the garage. The chalk line in the photos indicates roughly where the ground level is on the outside of the wall. It seems to be coming up from the ground between the slab and the bottom of the wall on the side that is below ground level, not soaking through the brickwork but this is a major problem. It will take weeks for the walls to dry out (assuming it stops raining soon which is a big 'if') and I have to work out what to do in order to stop it happening again. Could the building be partially tanked? If anyone has any helpful suggestions, I'd love to hear them!

Brutal, and if you've read my design thread, you know that I personally feel your pain as I have had moisture problems myself. It a LOT of work to implement, but I would suggest looking into installing weeping tile. There is no point in building more until you sort out that issue. Greg

Thanks Greg - that's very helpful. I know that you have had some monumental problems with your build to say the least!!

That is a particularily tough position. It is promising that the brick are not wicking that typically means the exterior was sealed well. And for below elevation construction this is required. The breech in the structure at the base of the bricks is the "path of least restriction". Fixing a water issue on the inside of the structure is never suggested, in any city in any country. It was mentioned as a fix weeping tile, what I refer to as a "french drain" is the solution to your issue. But it comes at a cost and cannot be ignored but is the only way at this point to correct this leaking. There may be some new types of interior leak extraction available like a sump pump, which still requires modification but is less intrusive. Good luck my friend.

Thanks for your advice Brien - it is much appreciated. A local drainage contractor assessed the problem two days ago and said almost exactly the same thing. He advised building a French drain and adding a sump pump which would drive excess water through a bore and into the nearby drain. I'll have to wait several months for the ground to dry out sufficiently to dig the trench. In the meantime I'm re-ordering my plan of works so at least I can be achieving something.

Hello again one & all, I hope you are all staying well and managing to maintain relative sanity! The recent re-availability of building materials has allowed me to make some modest progress on my build this week but before I get on to that, I think it’s worth mentioning something that might be useful if you’re about to start your own build - specifically that you can save a substantial amount of money by bulk ordering materials for delivery instead of relying on more local suppliers. I set up several trade accounts with nearby timber and building yards and while it’s true that they beat retail prices by a good margin (10 - 15%), 10 minutes of internet research revealed bulk delivery sources that saved me £4 a sheet on OSB3, nearly £5 per sheet of MDF and over £6 per sheet of cement fibre board on ‘trade’ prices. The minimum order was £500 for the timber and £250 for the cement board, but given the quantity of materials needed to build even a small studio, it’s a threshold that’s easily crossed. The first job I tackled was to tank the garage and I’m extremely grateful to ‘Purelythemusic’ (AKA Tom) for his steer on this. I applied a coat of Construction Chemicals tanking slurry (as far as I can tell it’s a mixture of cement and glass fibres) up to one metre above ground level (said to be the limit of capillary rise in brick walls). Then added a wedge of mortar (or ‘fillet’) around the perimeter of the room where the slab meets the wall. When the mortar had hardened sufficiently, I painted on a second coat and left it to cure (the manufacturer recommends a full week). Not my tidiest work, I confess but at least it will be hidden! Meanwhile I raised the two joists nearest the gables to make room for the inner leaf silencers, moved another one other to create more space between the rafters and pinned the others with M12 bolts. The raised joists will be reinforced (or ‘collared’) before any increased load is placed on them. Then I started to make a framework from softwood batten inside the gable timbers which is set in 30mm from the edge. I’m going to attach the Cement board and OSB3 cladding to this (after caulking it of course). I originally intended to pin the boards directly to the gable but doing it this way will increase the inter-leaf cavity by the thickness of the cladding. Thanks for reading - more photos at ‘johnsteel.org’. Best wishes, John.

An update to my build thread is long over due but while I write up the progress I've made over the summer I'd like to ask a quick question to learned members of the JS forum. I'm currently building my silencers to a design based on Greg's silencer box and formed of two layers of 18mm MDF (this will make the boxes as dense as the leaves they're attached to). My question is: would there be any benefit in using green glue between the inner and outer layers of MDF? My instinct is that it can't hurt but I have a nagging feeling that I may be missing something. Has anyone tried this or have thoughts on it? Best wishes, John.

John Steel wrote:

An update to my build thread is long over due but while I write up the progress I've made over the summer I'd like to ask a quick question to learned members of the JS forum. I'm currently building my silencers to a design based on Greg's silencer box and formed of two layers of 18mm MDF (this will make the boxes as dense as the leaves they're attached to). My question is: would there be any benefit in using green glue between the inner and outer layers of MDF? My instinct is that it can't hurt but I have a nagging feeling that I may be missing something. Has anyone tried this or have thoughts on it? Best wishes, John.

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Hey John, Looking good! Do your wall/ceiling panels have green glue between them? I can’t see any problem using green glue in your silencer boxes, not sure how much difference it will make but if you have some spare then why not? Paul

Hi Paul, Thanks for your comments - much appreciated. I'm using green glue between the layers of the outer leaf cladding and I intend to use it in the inner leaf construction too. I spend so much time thinking about the many & various aspects of this build that I sometimes can't see the wood for the trees, so it's great to have independent input. How's your project going?

John Steel wrote:

Hi Paul, Thanks for your comments - much appreciated. I'm using green glue between the layers of the outer leaf cladding and I intend to use it in the inner leaf construction too. I spend so much time thinking about the many & various aspects of this build that I sometimes can't see the wood for the trees, so it's great to have independent input. How's your project going?

It's going okay - I keep redesigning everything in SU, trying to come up with the best compromise for each aspect of the design, it's tiring - the trouble is I keep learning more and more, so each time I learn something new I realise I have to change something! There's already a tonne of things I wish I had built differently with the knowledge I have now, but, that's always the case with DIY studio design. in fact, even the very best have had to go through this process - it took Tom Hidley a few hundred studios before he finally realised there was a much better way. Can't wait to see more progress on your build, you're doing quality work. Paul

Thanks Paul - I have just searched 'Tom Hidley '. What a story!

It’s been a fair while since I updated my build diary, so here’s what I did this Summer. I continued framing between the rafters up to the level of the joists on the N.W. & S.E. facing walls. This was trickier than the gables because the framing has to be contoured to the same angle as the rafters. The next step was to begin cladding the framework, first with 12.5mm cement board then a layer of 18mm OSB. I was careful to thoroughly caulk all the seams of the frame and after the sealant cured I fixed the individually cut panels to the frame using star drive screws. I fixed the OSB panels to the rafters after applying green glue to the side that will be in contact with the cement board. I don’t have pictures of the green glue being applied as I was concentrating too hard on the task to remember to take any. I have a few more panels to fit and I’ll try to capture this when I do. I added ‘collars’ to the raised joists so they’ll be reinforced and rigid enough to support the outer leaf silencers and supporting framework. With the help of Kate (spouse, musical collaborator, song-writer and percussionist of the first order) I applied two thick coats of masonry paint to the brick walls and piers in order to seal them. The next step was to make the outer leaf silencers as they needed to be raised onto the joists before the middle leaf decking is fitted (I have actually installed two short runs of decking already, one at either end of the room, forming a platform on which the silencers can rest while I build the framing to hold them). I made them out of two layers of 18mm MDF incorporating 3 x 180 degree turns. As I cut the pieces, I clamped them together to make sure they were going to fit (I’ve heard this referred to as ‘dry fitting’). I learned very quickly that it’s incredibly easy to over-work and damage MDF so I was careful to pre-drill and countersink the inner layer of the box. As well as (gingerly) using 30mm screws I used a thin bead of wood glue along the joining edges. Then I added a bead of caulk along the inner and outer seams. By this stage, they were beginning to get fairly heavy (even without the extra layer of boards which would eventually more than double the weight) so I decided to take the opportunity of adding the foam lining while they were still relatively easy to move around. I used a class ‘O’ acoustic foam, supplied in 25mm thick sheets with an adhesive backing. It’s important to use this type of product as it’s mould resistant, fire resistant as well as being acoustically rated (even though it’s eye-wateringly expensive) and given that, once the boxes are sealed up, air tight, there will be no chance of modifying them, it doesn’t make any sense to use inferior materials. I discovered that the adhesive backing wasn’t quite as sticky as I’d hoped and overnight, where it had been shaped around the baffles, it had begun to separate. The solution I found was to buy some 52mm plastic washers to hold the foam in place where it was being deflected. They’re actually surveyor’s markers but are perfect for this application as they have beveled edges and while they will add a small amount of drag to the airflow it will help avoid the foam completely springing loose when the glue completely dries out. When the silencers were completed they weighed 64 kilograms each, so the next challenge was to raise them up to the middle leaf decking ( a three metre lift). For this I used an inexpensive (£10) cable pulley set along with three locking carabiners, two load straps and an old security chain. All of these components have a load capacity of at least 200 kilograms. The nylon rope supplied with the pulley set looked very flimsy and as if it would untwist very rapidly under the load so I replaced it with marine grade, double braided rope. The lift was pretty straightforward and the finished boxes are on the decking, sealed to keep out insects, dust and other unwelcome guests (apologies for the poor picture quality – it was the end of a long day). The next part of the build is making the frame for the silencers – more to follow and thanks for reading. More details and pictures at johnsteel.org

I must confess that the rate of progress slowed down quite a bit over the Autumn and Winter months. This was partly due to the fact that when it’s cold, damp, freezing or windy, it’s not that much fun to work in the garage. Also, I have found it difficult to source certain materials recently. I ordered a few cases of caulk in December (I am getting through a large amount of it) and it arrived in mid – February. The supplier told me this was because the manufacturer simply couldn’t import sufficient quantities of the raw materials needed to make it following Brexit. That said, I have actually achieved a fair amount for an old-timer. I continued fixing the first layer of OSB in the middle leaf decking until it was completed. Now the only gaps in it are where the raised sections are (these will be completed after the inner and outer leaf silencers are in position) and an opening for a triple sealed hatch door which will mirror one on the inner leaf. I built the two frames which are going to support the outer leaf silencers and form part of the enclosure for the inner leaf silencers at opposite ends of the room, incorporating the joists I raised last year. I made sure that the OSB sheets met over the existing ceiling chords and / or were overlapped with a plank of the same material after being caulked. I think I should mention that the task of caulking has been made considerably easier since I bought a battery powered caulking gun. I started off using the hand operated type and quickly realised that it would result in severe repetitive strain injury given the amount of sealing I had to do. When researching studio building, you often read maxims like, “if in doubt – caulk it!” and variations thereof. It’s true and before you start building, you can’t imagine how much time and effort you will spend doing this simple task. I’d go as far as saying that the caulking gun is probably the most labour saving tool I have. Then I began fitting panels of 12mm cement fibre board on the underside of the decking, in between the joists. This combination of cement board and OSB is actually the opposite way round to the cladding on the walls where the cement board was attached first, with battens, between the rafters and OSB (with green glue) attached directly to the rafters. This is because OSB forms a better weight bearing platform (it’s far less brittle) and also cement board is pretty unpleasant to work with; the less I have to cut up, the better. I used the usual, liberal amounts of green glue on the cut panels which, according to the manufacturer’s instructions, should be applied in a ‘random pattern’. In the interests of personal amusement, I based many of these random patterns on short phrases . . . Rhetorical questions . . . . . . and inspirational quotes in the style of elusive studio designers! When the panels were properly glued (I actually applied the green glue more like this) . . . . . . I lifted them up into position and locked them in place using two panel supports. These can be operated one-handed, so I could easily support the boards with my other hand while adjusting them. I added a stripe of caulk along each edge and using another support, fixed pre – cut lengths of batten into the joists to hold the cement boards in place. Now this layer of cement board is in place, it’s almost time (after yet more caulking) to start on the inner leaf structure. Covid 19 allowing, this will involve getting outside help as I don’t have the joinery skills to build and fit sealed windows and doors. Still, it’s starting to feel like I can at least see the destination that I’m heading towards. Thanks for reading – best wishes, John. There’s lots more about my studio build at http://www.johnsteel.org

nice work! yes, caulk is your friend. you will learn to hate caulk, but caulk is still, and will always be, your friend. 8) i like the Jackson Pollack over the writing... who knows? in a hundred years from now, they'll discover your writings & paintings and you'll be famous. :mrgreen:

Thanks for your encouragement Glenn, it's much appreciated! I know it's not healthy but I dream about caulking! :cry:

Nobody can say you havent done your best. How long has this project been in process? (I wrote that in green glue just for you).

Thanks for your comments Brien.

How long has this project been in process?

I began planning four years ago & started building just over a year ago but it feels more like a lifetime.

(I wrote that in green glue just for you).

Just my little joke (evidently). I took my inspiration from a former member of this parish (apparently he has marvelous eyesight). I have enormous respect for all the admins and moderators of this forum. Best wishes, John.

Any update on this?