New Room Advise

Started by SunkenCity on 15 January 2018. 94 replies. In the Library under Control room design.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 21387.

Do I really need backer rod in a gap that small and only 5/8 deep?
No, you don't. But it helps for larger gaps, so it always is nice to have some rolls of backer rod ready for when you need it!
Cleats? I don't understand, A quick google of drywall cleats didn't bring up much just drywall repair stuff
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You can use any small scraps of wood you have. Basically just use them to hold the drywall up. You want your drywall firmly held up, but a sort of "floating" effect is what you want. You don't want it firmly anchored via screws.
Is there anything I need to do to the edges of the drywall pieces after I cut them to get the caulk to stick properly?
Once your gap is filled with coat #1, it will probably shrink some. Apply a second coat and be sure to apply it over top of the gap, having it stick to the outside material. Overdoing the caulking is probably a good idea. Greg
The picture you posted is with engineered I beams and it is a bit easier to do it the way you suggested but what about with standard joists. Seems like it would be a real pita screwing blocks in sideways into the joists all while holding the drywall up. the wood block would be screwed into the joist holding up the drywall but how do I seal the seems with the wood blocks in the way, just seal the edges of the block?
The picture you posted is with engineered I beams and it is a bit easier to do it the way you suggested but what about with standard joists. Seems like it would be a real pita screwing blocks in sideways into the joists all while holding the drywall up.
Here is a pic of my friends subfloor beef up that has regular dimensional type joists. I think he used 2x3 dimensional lumber cut into little rectangles for cleats. I personally put some up with him and it wasn't hard. Pre-screw into the cleats before you even take them up there! Of course, 2 people doing the job makes it easy.
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the wood block would be screwed into the joist holding up the drywall but how do I seal the seems with the wood blocks in the way, just seal the edges of the block?
Go to the edges of the cleats with sealant layer #1. Then, one at at time, move the cleats and apply a second layer of sealant :wink: Greg
Alright that makes sense. Bit more trouble with only 10" between the joists and alot deeper, my drill barely fits between the joists. Might have to screw the blocks in at an angle but if you're sure the benefits out weigh the trouble I'll do it. So one of my walls is 3/8" drywall :cry: , what should I add between the studs to match the other leafs? It also has more than a few punctures and I don't have access to the other side. Is there a good way to patch them? without making a mess on the other side. What do you guys do about outlets that penetrate to the outside of the outer leaf? Thanks
Alright that makes sense. Bit more trouble with only 10" between the joists and alot deeper, my drill barely fits between the joists. Might have to screw the blocks in at an angle but if you're sure the benefits out weigh the trouble I'll do it.
Screwing in at a 45 degree angle would be fine.
So one of my walls is 3/8" drywall :cry: , what should I add between the studs to match the other leafs?
Did you try my calculator? It's very easy to check what you'd need to add to achieve the same transmission loss as your other walls ;-)
It also has more than a few punctures and I don't have access to the other side. Is there a good way to patch them? without making a mess on the other side.
What is on the other side? If it's not another commercial space, you could use the standard drywall repair technique of cutting a square or rectangular hole where the puncture is, take something like a strip of plywood or dimensional lumber and place it across the backside of the hole. Screw through your drywall to hold this reinforcing piece in place. Now, you'll have a solid backing to screw your square or rectangular filler piece of drywall too.
What do you guys do about outlets that penetrate to the outside of the outer leaf?
Box them in with the material of the same surface density as your outer leaf. Seal the heck out of the wire penetration and stuff the box full of insulation around the electrical box. Greg
I pulled up your calculator on google sheets but wasn't sure how to add another layer to the sandwich. I bought a table saw and have been ripping all the 5/8s drywall that I pulled off the walls into pieces that fit inbetween the ceiling joists. very dirty job, really have to motivate myself get it done. only 7 more sheets of leftovers to go. Is this my lucky day? I found a 3' x 6' pane of 3/4" thick glass by the trash at a junk shop I go to. Will this be good for the thicker glass of my control room window? Had to drive it home with one of my car doors wide open so I hope it's just what I need :lol:
I bought a table saw and have been ripping all the 5/8s drywall
You are ripping DRYWALL on a TABLE SAW???? :shock: WHY???? :roll: It is dead easy to cut drywall with a box cutter! Just score along a straight edge slightly into the surface, and snap along the score.... Very fast, very easy. not too messy....
Is this my lucky day? I found a 3' x 6' pane of 3/4" thick glass by the trash at a junk shop I go to
Wow! That's pretty cool! You sure are lucky. Do you know if it laminated glass? That thick, it might be, which would be great. But even if it isn't, that's still a nice chunk of glass. But do you need your window to be 3' x 6'? Is that the size you wanted? You can't cut laminated glass, so hopefully that is the size you need. - Stuart -
I pulled up your calculator on google sheets but wasn't sure how to add another layer to the sandwich.
The "sandwich" as you call it is achieved by selecting something in the "MATERIAL 2" column. The calculator can accept up to 4 layers per leaf. Give that a shot and if you're still confused, I'll try to direct you using pictures or something. Greg
well I figured it would be the best way to get nice square cuts quickly especially having to make all the pieces for between the joists and studs and the table has measuring doohickeys already on it. How do you tell if its laminated? I've been searching craigslist for control room windows for a while and was just gunna use what I could afford that was already framed but 3' x 6' is pretty much what I was hoping for. I read somewhere you don't wanna go over 3' tall and square is bad.. Would I use this on the control room side or the live room? I think John said you want the thicker side on the control room right? How thick should the other piece be ( I guess that depends on the above question and the surface density of the 5/8" drywall x2 + 1/2" OSB leaves) should it be the same dimensions or slightly smaller? There's a small amount of damage on two of the corners, No cracks but scalloped surface chips. I figured I could fill it with epoxy to make a good surface for the seal and put the damage on the side not facing the live room
How do you tell if its laminated? I've been searching craigslist for control room windows for a while and was just gunna use what I could afford that was already framed but 3' x 6' is pretty much what I was hoping for.
You should be able to look at the edge and see the visible interlayer. If you can't, then chances are it's not laminated.
I read somewhere you don't wanna go over 3' tall and square is bad..
Where did you read this. Share a link if you can. I don't see why the size or shape would matter.
Would I use this on the control room side or the live room? I think John said you want the thicker side on the control room right?
It has been suggested by some people to use a thicker glass on the control room side. I've also read some books written by well respected cats that having your glass differ in thickness provides no real improvements. A Mass Spring Mass system works best when both masses are the same thickness. If the different thickness theory provided a major improvement, then why aren't we doing the same thing with our walls?
How thick should the other piece be ( I guess that depends on the above question and the surface density of the 5/8" drywall x2 + 1/2" OSB leaves)
For the third time, I will recommend that you use my MSM TL calculator as it will answer this question (it has glass as one of the leaf materials). Or do the math yourself if you find that route easier.
should it be the same dimensions or slightly smaller?
It depends on your room design. Personally, in my design, my control room window looks into my ISO room. The window in my ISO room is wider so that I can see more of that room from my mix position.
There's a small amount of damage on two of the corners, No cracks but scalloped surface chips. I figured I could fill it with epoxy to make a good surface for the seal and put the damage on the side not facing the live room
That should work fine. Just make sure it makes a good seal. And be careful while you're handling it! Greg
I decided to use the calculator to figure out your glass thickness for you. I just typed in glass thickness (in mm) until it went just over the same TL as your wall leaf.
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If you look at the "TL of Leaf 1" you'll see that your wall (with two layers of 5/8" drywall and 1 layer of OSB) will provide a TL of 34.21 dB. With 12mm of laminated glass, that leaf will provide a TL of 34.44 dB. If the price jump isn't too big, it would be smart to go a size up from 12mm. You don't want your glass to be your weak link. Greg
The piece I found is 3/4"/ 19mm so thicker than the suggested of 16mm / 5/8". Pretty sure it's not laminated I don't see layers Should I try and find another piece just as thick? I was hoping I would only need a thinner/cheaper piece to complete the window. This is where I read the thing about avoiding a square piece: http://www.muzines.co.uk/articles/build ... indow/2884 John H. Brandt? mentions the the 3' tall thing here: https://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio- ... ndows.html I guess you updated the MSM tl cal, I just pulled up one I had downloaded a while back. I'll have to take another crack at it to figure out what to add to the wall with 3/8" drywall. Be nice to still have it only be two layers added to reduce the amount of GreenGlue needed I've started sorting out the scraps of drywall I cut and dry fitting them.
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Also cut a bunch of triangle bits to hold the drywall up. How often should I space them to make sure the piece is getting the proper amount of compression for the GG but still "floating" ?
This is where I read the thing about avoiding a square piece
I would not base my studio window design on ANYTHING said in that article! It is full of incorrect, misleading, and only half-true statements and claims. For example, it tells you to angle your window glass, when in fact doing so DECREASES isolation, instead of increasing it. Here's why angling the glass is not necessary from the point of view of mic reflections (an often cited "reason" for angling it):
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And here's why it reduces isolation:
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That article also wants you to believe that a tripe-leaf window is better than a double leaf window (!!! :roll: :shock: )! Here's the REAL issue with double-pane and triple-pane glass: This is the typical isolation you'd get from ordinary double-pane windows:
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And here's what you get from a triple-pane window:
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glass-3-leaf-240f04e.gif See the difference? Note the HUGE dip at around 150 Hz, and the general lack of low end isolation? Not nice. Yes, you get better isolation in the high end, but who cares? It's the LOW end that matters for studios (drums, bass, guitars, keyboards...), and the high end is still plenty good. Especially considering that those diagrams are for rather thin glass over rather thin air spaces (3mm glass, 6mm air gaps). Also note that the isolation hardly changed at all! It went from STC-30 with the 2-leaf to STC-31 with 3-leaf: so no change at all, basically. Even considering that the STC rating system does not consider the low end of the spectrum! If it did, the isolation for the 3-leaf would be worse than two-leaf. As you can see, the article is totally wrong on all of those issues. Whoever wrote it does not have a clue about acoustic theory, or acoustic reality. Pure garbage. That article even wants you to float your entire window on rubber, twice over, thus creating yet another three-leaf situation! Sigh! Ignore it. There is nothing usable in there, and there's no acoustic reason I'm aware of why you "must avoid square windows". The author seems to be very confused: perhaps he doesn't know the difference between square rooms and square windows? I'm not quite sure what Rod was trying to get at in the Gearslutz thread, when he mentioned knocking on the glass: he seems to be talking either about the coincidence dip, or maybe it was panel resonance... not very clear. The coincidence dip is always present, for any material, of any size, but with laminated glass it is greatly reduced because of the PVB interlayer. If the glass is acoustic laminated glass (with the thicker acoustic PVB interlayer), then the effect is even smaller:
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So I'm pretty sure he wasn't talking about that. He was probably talking about panel resonance, which can be a problem with large sheets of "anything", not just glass. However, if you follow his very correct advice of using two different thicknesses of glass for the two sides of the window, then that problem is also minimized. The reasons why I would be careful with very large panes of glass, are: 1) Cost: Thick laminated glass is expensive! 2) Structural: Building a wall that has a very large pane of glass in it requires a more complex structure, firstly to support the weight of the glass, and secondly to support the weight of the ceiling above it, since you have to take out several studs for wide windows. So very large structural members for the window sill, and also for the window header, with multiple king studs, jack studs, and cripple studs. It can be done, sure, but it's extra complexity and extra cost. 3) Acoustics: Having a big window taking up a large section of one wall means that you cannot place any acoustic treatment at that location of the wall, so you can potentially run into problems with flutter echo, specular reflections, or even SBIR. If you design carefully, keeping those issues in mind, then you can avoid the problems, but once again, it adds complexity to the design. How do I know that the article is pure garbage and that big windows are fine, if you do them right? Take a look at this studio ( viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21368 ) I designed the control room with large windows on three sides of the room! Look closely: the front window, into the Live Room is 44" wide and 35" high (so early four feet wide by three feet high), and BOTH of the side walls have sliding glass doors on them, that are 61" wide by 76" high! (over five feet wide, and over six feet high). In fact, those side walls are about TWO THIRDS glass, (about 65% of the entire surface area of those side walls is sliding glass door...). Now read through the thread, until you get to the most recent acoustic tests that we have been doing for the final room tuning, and you'll see that the place is working out excellently well. In other words, there is no need to avoid large glass panels, if you can afford it, and if you do it correctly, taking into account the issues that it could create. Ignore advice from unknown sources that make unsupported, incorrect statements. - Stuart -
It was written by Paul Gilby Co-Founder of Sound On Sound but I guess it's out of date info. Yeah the triple leaf thing made me question it a bit but I figured maybe some of the info was still relevant. What about the mention of using hardwood for the frame? I haven't read anything about angling the glass for sound reflection, more so to reduce the resonance between the two panes and glare/light reflection. " It's also common practice to angle the piece of glass on the studio side downwards slightly, which stops the view through the window from being obscured by reflections from studio lights and helps to prevent the build-up of standing waves between the sheets of glass. " Here It shows rubber or cork under the glass pane(not floating the frame tho) and angling the glass: " Angles. The two sheets of glass must be at an angle to each other else the two sheets will interact in a resonate sympathy and the sound reduction properties will be reduced. You can angle the glass as in the following drawing but don't forget that the glass can also be angled in the horizontal plane as well as the vertical plane." http://johnlsayers.com/Recmanual/Pages/Windows.htm This is what I was referencing from Gearslutz: "Also, I almost never have any studio windows taller than 36" or 90 cm. WAY too much glass and unnecessary for line-of-sight and communication. If budget is a concern, you ARE often much better off with CCTV and monitors. I every time I see huge expanses of glass in a control room because they are sacrificing the acoustical accuracy of the space for visual impact. I'll repeat: "Form Follows Function". " - John H. Brandt Now I getting conflicting info from You and Greg about using two panes of glass of different thickness?
I'm sure Stuart will give you some answers to your points when he's free, but I'll try and clarify some things for you.
I haven't read anything about angling the glass for sound reflection, more so to reduce the resonance between the two panes and glare/light reflection.
" It's also common practice to angle the piece of glass on the studio side downwards slightly, which stops the view through the window from being obscured by reflections from studio lights and helps to prevent the build-up of standing waves between the sheets of glass. "
Angling glass for sound reflection is common when designing RFZ based rooms. Stuart and John Sayers both use sliding glass doors extensively from what I've seen. As an example, imagine you are designing your RFZ based room and you want to treat a wall first reflection; you would usually place an angled wall/panel to direct the sound behind the mix position. Does this panel need to be plasterboard/brick? ... No. Glass reflects sounds just as well as an mdf panel right? You could place a sliding door at this point at whatever angle you need, leading to an adjacent room just fine. This would similarly reduce glare. I don't really, understand the standing wave point they mention... why would you care about a null/peak within a window? We care about the mix position... unless I'm missing something.
This is what I was referencing from Gearslutz: "Also, I almost never have any studio windows taller than 36" or 90 cm. WAY too much glass and unnecessary for line-of-sight and communication. If budget is a concern, you ARE often much better off with CCTV and monitors. I every time I see huge expanses of glass in a control room because they are sacrificing the acoustical accuracy of the space for visual impact. I'll repeat: "Form Follows Function". " - John H. Brandt
I've noticed John H Brandt in arguments at GearSlutz before, due to him saying that other designs are bad based on pictures, without seeing under the surface. He seems to be mistaken about the design goals of some of the rooms he's seen with lots of glass. Stuart and John have had world class (literally) "acoustical accuracy" on their designs using big glass doors. True RFZ based rooms (RFZ by reflection not absorption) don't shape the direct sound in any way between the speakers and the mix position. Treatments to the sound field are applied to the sound after it has passed the mix position. There is sometimes treatment behind the speakers to reduce SBIR and reflections, but flush mounted designs are generally better. In these designs heavy use of glass is perfectly fine, as long as you direct the energy correctly. Glass doors give excellent line of sight, whilst doubling as doors (two birds with 1 stone). Many mixing engineers LOVE how these huge windows aid their ability to communicate so naturally with the clients. If John H Brandt's claim that using lots of glass is "form over function" is always true, then how are the worldclass results being achieved in Stuart's and John Sayers rooms? (Check the measurements, they're very real)
Now I getting conflicting info from You and Greg about using two panes of glass of different thickness?
In this case I believe there are two schools of thought. Angling does reduce panel resonance, but if they weren't angled then the cavity would have greater depth on average, so would improve the spring... potato, potato. In the end design your room on real acoustic principles and logic. Not sweeping statements, that may be out of context. (I didnt read the gearslutz forum that the JH Brandt comment came from). If you want a big window/door, design your room and see if you can fit it in. If you want it to go where you need a hunk of absorption then DON'T PUT IT THERE :lol: Simples. Dan
What about the mention of using hardwood for the frame?
The type of wood doesn't really matter. What matters is the mass (or density). and the ability to support the weight of the window. From that point of view, more dense woods are arguably better.
It was written by Paul Gilby Co-Founder of Sound On Sound but I guess it's out of date info.
Well, he might be great at editing an excellent magazine, but perhaps not so great at acoustics. As you say, the information might be out of date: acoustics is an ever-advancing science, and new research can bring changes to the way people design rooms. For example, that's why nobody uses the original true LEDE concept any more: research in psycho-acoustics shows why it wasn't a pleasant place to work. Extensions of LEDE, such as NER, CID, and RFZ have been shown to be much better.
I haven't read anything about angling the glass for sound reflection, more so to reduce the resonance between the two panes and glare/light reflection.
Light glare is the only valid reason for angling glass.... or maybe there's another valid reason: aesthetics (the owner thinks it looks cool). No, it does not reduce resonance between the panes. The volume of air inside the sealed cavity is the issue: that is what resonates, not the shape. You can have any shape space you want for a sealed cavity. The original Helmholtz resonator was spherical, with a round pipe or neck sticking out at one point, but you can make it cylindrical, rectangular, a cube, a pyramid, a dodecahedron, or any other shape, and as long as the volume of air trapped inside is the same, all of those would resonate at the same frequency. In studios, we build them mostly rectangular these days, because is is easy, but here's how they used to look originally:
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The actual equation is: f= (c / 2 * PI) * SQRT ( S / V * L ) where f is the frequency, c = the speed of sound in air, S = the surface area of the hole, V = the volume of air in the resonator's body L = the length of the neck or port As you can see, there's no variable in there to adjust for the shape of the container.... the only thing that matters, is the volume of air inside. OK, so a two-leaf window is not a Helmholtz resonator, but the same holds true for any resonance in a cavity: the shape doesn't matter. It's the volume of air inside that matters. In fact, for this case the equation is far simpler: f = 60 / SQRT (M*D) Where: M = the surface density of the panel, D = depth of the resonant cavity. And that's where the confusion comes from! People see the "D" and assume "Well then, I'll change "D" across the cavity! I'll make "D" greater at some points and less at others, so that I get different frequencies!" Cool idea, but it doesn't work quite like that. You have to understand the derivation of the equation to arrive at the conclusion that "D" has to be constant if you want to use this simplified version of the equation, because that "D" actually is only valid for that case... once again, what matter is the VOLUME of the cavity, and if the width and height are held constant (as assumed by the simplified equation), then you can just use the depth. If you do decide to change the depth, with one side being deeper than the other (by angling the glass, for example.....) then the resultant resonant frequency is given by the AVERAGE depth: So add up the greatest depth and the smallest depth, divide by 2, and that's your "D". (in other words, D = (d1 + d2) / 2) Thus, by angling the glass the only thing you achieve is that you change the resonant frequency! That's all. You do NOT stop the resonance, or make it go away: you just move it to a different frequency. And since the only way to angle glass in a fixed depth window frame is to push it INWARDS at the top of bottom, the volume of trapped air always becomes SMALLER than it was, so the resonant frequency always goes UP. You do get a slight reduction in Q as well, which is also not good, because the resonant region is now broader... So your window isolates less well than it would have... So no, angling glass does not make the resonance disappear: it just changes it. Some people also mention the huge scary monster of "standing waves", saying that angling the glass gets rid of those nasty creatures inside the cavity.... also not true! For the same reason that you cannot get rid of standing waves in your room by angling the walls, you also cannot get rid of standing waves inside the cavity of the window by angling the glass: from that point of view, the cavity is identical to your room, and the glass panes are identical to your walls. You can angle the walls (or glass) all you want, and all that you will accomplish is moving them to a different set of frequencies. You cannot eliminate standing waves: they will always form at some frequency or other, and all that you change by angling the glass is to choose a different frequency set, with a different "spread" of frequencies around the spectrum. If you do manage to angle your glass by a very large amount (more than about 12° or so), then you can actually "get rid" of some axial modes... but they then become tangential modes instead, so there's no real change in total.... There's no free lunch here. You can't get something for nothing.
" It's also common practice to angle the piece of glass on the studio side downwards slightly, which stops the view through the window from being obscured by reflections from studio lights and helps to prevent the build-up of standing waves between the sheets of glass. "
Exactly. That's the one reason why you might want to validly angle your glass. But in that case, you have to model your entire studio in 3D first, including the locations of all lights and all viewing positions, to ensure that the angle you choose really does stop glare! You might remove glare from the overhead lights themselves, but then create a situation where all you see in the glass is a reflection of the rear end of your console.... :)
Here It shows rubber or cork under the glass pane(not floating the frame tho) and angling the glass
Why would you want to put rubber or cork under it, if the reason for that is not to float the glass? Makes no sense.... The ONLY valid reason you would use a springy, rubbery mounting is to decouple the glass, so that vibrations in the glass are not transmitted to the frame, and vibrations in the frame are not transmitted to the glass.. If you have no interest in preventing vibrations from getting through, then why do it? What other purpose would there be?
I almost never have any studio windows taller than 36" or 90 cm. WAY too much glass and unnecessary for line-of-sight and communication.
I disagree. Sometimes it is necessary to have large windows, and it's not just about line-of-sight communication: it's about the overall aesthetic of the studio. Glass gives the sensation of open, airy, bright spaces, which is important too. Especially for small studios, where the rooms are not very big anyway. You don't want it looking tiny, cramped, dingy, and claustrophobic, so use more glass between the rooms to help avoid that. As long as it does not detract from the acoustics of the room, and as long as the budget can handle it, there's no reason to limit the size of your windows. Take a look around all of John Sayer's studios (click on the logo at the top right corner of this page): notice how many of them use large expanses of glass, and how good it looks.
I see huge expanses of glass in a control room because they are sacrificing the acoustical accuracy of the space for visual impact.
Not true! As with most generalizations, this one isn't true either.... (Yeah, I realize the irony of make a generalization about generalizations....). If you know what you are doing, and design the rooms accordingly, there is no need to "sacrifice the acoustical accuracy of the space". I doubt that anybody would say that the many, many studios designed by John Sayers somehow "sacrifice acoustical accuracy". That simply isn't true. It is entirely possible to have a studio that uses a lot of glass, and is also very accurate, acoustically. According to the opinion you posted above, this room must be terribly disgusting:
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In reality, it is "Diante do Trono", one of the top studios in Brazil (and all of South America, for that matter), and was designed by WSDG, one of the leading acoustic consulting companies in the world. But look at all that glass! Based on the quote above, that cannot be any good at all, and this studio must be terrible.... :) I think you can see why it is that many of us do not agree with that claim about it being necessary to "sacrificing acoustics" to use glass: As Dan pointed out, glass is just another building material that can be used any place it is needed in a studio, as long as the necessary precautions are taken. I guess I can understand why a studio designer who does not know how to use glass, and is struggling to make a name for themselves, might want to belittle the design criteria used by those who do know how to use it, perhaps in an attempt to conjure up a competitive advantage, or something... It's unfortunate, though, as glass is an excellent material for studios... if you can afford it, and understand how to use it.
Now I getting conflicting info from You and Greg about using two panes of glass of different thickness?
I don't think we are in conflict: We are both saying that the glass in each leaf needs to be at least the same density as the leaf it forms part of, preferably greater. I added to that, saying that if you are concerned about panel resonance from two identical panes of glass, then make them different thicknesses: in other words, one of them will have to be THICKER than the minimum thickness needed to get the same density as the leaf. If you are concerned about that, then here's another equation for you to play with: it give you the free-field resonant frequencies of any panel, based only on the dimensions and the mass: The resonant frequencies are: Fr = 0.45 * Vl * t * [(r/w)^2+(r/h)^2] where: Vl = the longitudinal velocity of sound in the partition (m/s), t = the thickness of the panel (m), w = the width of the panel (m) h = the height of the panel (m)) r = the harmonic number (1 for the fundamental frequency, 2 for the first harmonic 3 for the second harmonic, etc). Vl for glass is somewhere in the region 4000 - 6000 m/s, depending on the type of glass. You can figure it more accurately using Hook's law: c = (K / ρ)1/2 where: K = Bulk Modulus of Elasticity (Pa) ρ = density (kg/m3) You'd need to look up the modulus of elasticity for your specific glass in a table, or ask the manufacturer. - Stuart -
Stuart beat me to it. But my post above his may have some points you want to read still 8) Dan
Waka wrote:
Stuart beat me to it. But my post above his may have some points you want to read still 8) Dan
It looks like we posted at the same time! And your points are very valid too. :thu: And thanks for the kind comments! :oops: - Stuart -
Thanks for taking the time to explain all that guys. This is just whats coming up when I'm looking for info on these subjects, one of them being from this site( the cork/rubber bit) http://johnlsayers.com/Recmanual/Pages/Windows.htm Is there anything else from this page that needs explaining as it might be outdated or misleading? I see how silly that comment about glass size is now, at the time I thought it had more to do with control room windows specifically and wasn't just a dumb opinion. I didn't think the space/angles of the glass would effect the volume if the air space between the glass if it is connected to the entirety of the air space between the leafs for the room? I think Greg's comment about the panes was that if having two different thickness's was beneficial it would also be something we would be doing with our walls and is suggesting two panes of the same thickness that are thicker than the minimum dictated by the surface density of the leafs. "It has been suggested by some people to use a thicker glass on the control room side. I've also read some books written by well respected cats that having your glass differ in thickness provides no real improvements. A Mass Spring Mass system works best when both masses are the same thickness. If the different thickness theory provided a major improvement, then why aren't we doing the same thing with our walls?" How do I determine if I should be concerned about panel resonance from two identical panes of glass? What you said about live end dead end is that for control rooms or live rooms or both? What where the others you mentioned as better? Reflection free zone, NER? CID?
I didn't think the space/angles of the glass would effect the volume if the air space between the glass if it is connected to the entirety of the air space between the leafs for the room?
Look at the equation again:
f = 60 / SQRT (M*D) Where: M = the surface density of the panel, D = depth of the resonant cavity.
It's the DEPTH of the cavity that matters, because for each unit of height and width, the depth is what defines the volume. For panels, we are not talking about the entire volume of air in between the two leaves, totaled all around the entire room, on all four sides and the ceiling! We are talking about the volume of air that a sound wave "sees" as it hits the panel: in other words, the volume of air behind the panel. In fact, for pistonic motion, you can divide the panel into any number of arbitrarily sized sub-panels and each of those will have the exact same characteristics as the entire panel itself. So a section of the panel that measures 10cm wide by 10cm high will behave exactly the same as another section that measures 40cm wide by 60cm high. In both cases, there is no place in the equation for plugging in the height and width: only the depth. For any give height and width, the volume behind is proportional to the panel size, so only the depth defines the frequency. Work through a couple of examples: Let's consider those two above, that I just gave you: One 10cm x 10cm glass pane, and one 40cm x 60cm pane, in both cases the glass is 1cm thick, and the cavity depth is 10cm. So for the first case, of the 10x10 pane: f= 60 / SQRT (M*D) = 60 / SQRT (25 * 0.10) = 37.9 Hz And for the second case of the 40 x 60 pane: f= 60 / SQRT (M*D) = 60 / SQRT (25 * 0.10) = 37.9 Hz Let's do one more pane, really huge: 5m long by 3m high: f= 60 / SQRT (M*D) = 60 / SQRT (25 * 0.10) = 37.9 Hz Since there is no place to insert the height and width of the panel in that equation, they are irrelevant! The ONLY thing that matters is the depth. OK, so now let's look at the angled glass situation, where the depth (distance between the panes) is 10cm at the top, 6cm in the middle, and 2cm at the bottom: RESONANT FREQUENCY AT TOP: f= 60 / SQRT (M*D) = 60 / SQRT (25 * 0.10) = 37.9 Hz RESONANT FREQUENCY IN CENTER: f= 60 / SQRT (M*D) = 60 / SQRT (25 * 0.06) = 49.1 Hz RESONANT FREQUENCY AT BOTTOM: f= 60 / SQRT (M*D) = 60 / SQRT (25 * 0.02) = 84.9 Hz As you can see, the resonant frequency DOES change here, and at the bottom, where the glass panes are close together, it is MORE THAN TWICE as high as at the top. And since the isolation of an MSM system is governed by the worst case, the isolation for that situation is poor. That window WITHOUT angled glass would isolate decently at about 80 Hz and up, bit WITH the angled glass it does not start isolating until 170 Hz. Depth matters: height and width do not.
I think Greg's comment about the panes was that if having two different thickness's was beneficial it would also be something we would be doing with our walls and is suggesting two panes of the same thickness that are thicker than the minimum dictated by the surface density of the leafs.
The difference is that walls are damped (there is abundant insulation in the cavity), while windows are not. For obvious reasons, you can't put fill the space between your window panes with mineral wool of OC-703! :) So the air is acting purely adiabatically in there, not isothermally, and the window panes themselves are not damped, but the wall panels are. So coincidence is a bigger issue with windows than it is with walls. Also, since glass is a lot stiffer (less flexible, less "springy") than drywall, the coincidence dip occurs at a lower frequency, once again making a difference between the two. For 15mm glass the dip would be at about 1 kHz, while for 15mm of drywall it would be more than twice as high, at roughly 2.6 kHz. So, basically Greg is right: using different thicknesses (or densities) for the two layers of a wall could improve isolation, since the coincidence dips would not align, but the improvement would be mostly in the higher frequencies, where isolation is already good, and the benefis would not be as great as for glass windows. So it's not really worth doing that.
How do I determine if I should be concerned about panel resonance from two identical panes of glass?
Do the math! :) That's what all those equations are for: so you can use them to predict the performance of your isolation, and adjust your plans as needed. If you don't want to do the math, then just "over-build" everything: Use thicker materials, higher density, larger air gaps, and you'll be fine... but you will have spent much more money than you need to....
What you said about live end dead end is that for control rooms or live rooms or both?
Only control rooms. Live rooms are very different, as they do not need to have strictly controlled neutral response. Indeed, live rooms should NOT have neutral response! They should be... well... "live"! :) - Stuart -