CR Treatment and Tuning---The home stretch!!

Yep! It's not cheap, but it's the best stuff out there. - Stuart -

OK here are the upper hangar picks. Next comes the boxes and the main soffit enclosure!

Cool! :thu: Looking good! Time for another REW test! I'll have the final box dimensions for you tomorrow.... a few minor tweaks are needed. - Stuart -

Righto. I'm thinking we may need to move the mic position since we're changing the angle of the speakers. I'm assuming that changes the head position as well.

What did you use to fasten the 703 to the Homasote? It looks much cleaner than the duct tape method most people use! Greg

I'm thinking we may need to move the mic position since we're changing the angle of the speakers. I'm assuming that changes the head position as well.

Do one test (set of 3) with the mic in its original location, same as always, then another set of 3 with the mic in the new location, so I can compare and have a future new baseline with comparison to the old. The new mic/head position will be 61" back from the face of the drywall on the front wall (above the window). I think that's the easiest place to measure it from, since the glass is angled and you won't have good access under the window in the future. So measure straight back form that drywall face, parallel to the floor, and drop down a vertical at 61". That's the new head-ear position (assuming you still want to go with the "minimalist desk" design that I showed you before). If you go with a bigger desk, you might not be able to get so far forward. That would still be OK acoustically, as long as you only go back a couple of inches, max, since your speakers have pretty smooth horizontal dispersion, and the sweet spot / RFZ area are both large enough for that. But it would be best if you can keep it to 61". It might be an idea to lay out the outline of that desk on the floor with masking tape, and set up an actual chair, to double-check that it will all work for you. - Stuart -

What did you use to fasten the 703 to the Homasote? It looks much cleaner than the duct tape method most people use!

Gregwor whats up! - it's looks like he may have used screws and big washers (you can sort of make them out from the photos) - I did the same thing on my silencer boxes. If you get a chance I had a question on my thread you may or may/not know the answer too (actually regarding silencer boxes).

Hey guys. Sorry I hadn't seen your post Greg. yeah I just used 1 1/4" screws with fender washers. 4 per side.

yeah I just used 1 1/4" screws with fender washers. 4 per side.

any glue as well or just the screws/washers?

no glue, just a screw!

Quick question, Frank: Did you already drill the holes in the shelf, for the anchor bolts? From the photos, it looks like you didn't do that yet. If you have not done it, then hold off on that, as there might be minor adjustments there... - Stuart -

That's exactly why I didn't sir! :mrgreen:

Smart man! :thu: Stay tuned.... - Stuart -

Latest mdat sent!

Latest mdat sent!

Got it! Thanks. Check your e-mail: there seems to be an issue with your right speaker. Maybe the tweeter? - Stuart -

Will do. Might have crossed some wires.

Resent. Wires were indeed crossed.

:thu: Much better! That looks they way it should now. By the way, you seem to have bumped your calibration settings: the left speaker is now 4 dB hotter than it was for all previous tests, and the right speaker is 5 dB hotter. Please adjust that for the next tests. It's OK for now, as I simply applied an offset to the data, but for next time it would be good to get the levels back how they were. - Stuart -

No problem. I turned the output level back up. I had accidentally bumped the sensitivity switch on one of the speakers and it was messing me up. I figured it out.

:thu: I need some input: I was just doing a final double-check on the enclosure box dimensions, and noticed that the published dimensions for the height of your speakers INCLUDE the rubber feet! :roll: sigh! Silly way to advertise... But we won't be using those feet, so I need the exact height of the speaker cabinet by itself, without the feet. (Yeah, it's just a small fraction of an inch, but it matters.) Please measure as accurately as you can, since this is very important for the Sorbothane pads! Measure to the nearest 1/32". While you are at it it, might as well check the exact width as well: It is supposed to be 278mm, which is 10 15/16", but let's make certain. If the speakers are a couple of pounds lighter than the manual says, they might be off in dimensions as well.... - Stuart -

I'm showing 20.5" on the nose for the height. The 20 15/16" checks out on the width. Doesn't appear the the feet actually factored in. weird...

Doesn't appear the the feet actually factored in. weird...

Strange.... The manual clearly says "Dimensions including 4 rubber feet"! So it looks like we can't trust the manual much at all! Glad I checked that... Cool! So no adjustments needed then. Sorbothane: Did you also get the sixteen x 1/2" thick, 1 1/2" OD washers, and are they also 50 Shore? - Stuart -

I have 16 washers, but for some reason you had me get 8 at 30 shore and 8 at 50 shore.

Excellent! :thu: ! That's exactly what we need. I was hoping you'd say that... - Stuart -

Well alright then!