Could somone explain tow things for me:
1. what the Inside-Out wall construction method is?
2. Where to use it?
Much appreciated...
Inside-Out Wall Construction Method
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 2063.
Well, here is how I understand it.
In a typical wall, starting from the studio side, you have absorbtive materias which control sound inside the studio. Then you have the sheathing is on the surface of the wall, then there are the studs filled with insulation, then the air gap, then the second wall's studs with insulation, then the opposite side sheathing.
in the inside out wall you have some sort of fabric on the studio side to hide the insulation, then the studs filled with insulation, THEN the sheathing, then the air gap, then the second walls's studs filled with insulation, then the opposite side sheathing.
The advantage of the system is that the insulation on the studio side does double duty in controling sound inside the space. The disadvantage is that the total air gap between the two leaves is narrower and tha the wall must be sheathed on the ground and then tilted up, which can be heavy.
For long walls, you can build inside-out walls in sections, then fasten them together and seal the joints.
There are two other advantages that I don't see mentioned very often:
FIRST- for fire safety, if you're building double walls, you've gotta put draft-stopping of some kind on the top of the wall system. This means putting something solid between the walls, which will be tough to do if you're trying to structurally separate them. Having the drywall on the INSIDE of the wall cavity will make your building inspector feel a lot better about your project.
SECOND- all your electrical stuff is INSIDE the drywall, so you don't need to carve a whole bunch of 2"x4" holes in your sound-proofing. Obviously you can surface-mount, too, but with inside-out walls your outlets can be flush with the acoustic treatment, and look just like a normal wall system, and you'll only need to drill a couple holes to get the wiring into the room.
These two are the points that sell me on this idea the most.
Be Carefull to check your local codes. I jsut finished a studio witht he inside out system and had to take a lot of time and energy meeting with counsil (City) to get a special case permit (Since I already built them).
Great system. I hope to use it always. But in the city I built this room the inspecters were old timers that wanted to see what they knew, not what was to code. When you turn your plans in make sure you have a page detailing wall construction very clear.
This system saves a lot of time and money. Yes, it is heavy as hell to tilt some of the walls up, but with three or four people you can do it.
I also did the ceilings inside out. WOW. that is a pain, but worth it. If anyone has questions to how it works email me. [removed] I will try to explain what has worked for me atleast. John is the man behind this legend!!!!
just my 2 cents
jai
Yes, worth pointing out that you will not be allowed to use inside-out on a wall that requires a fire rating and may have trouble getting away with it on a structural wall. The reason is that the gypsum normally protects the studs from a fire inside the room.
Couple of things I don't understand with this system. First, as Inno said, it won't pass code in some locals, and two, whats the big deal about doing it this way. No different than panels of 703 mounted to a wall, and sure seems a hell of a lot harder to build, shieth with gyp bd and tape BEFORE raising the wall. The only benefit I see is built in framing for attatching fabric. Hardly seems worth the effort as frames for fabric are easily built in ANY shape, form or whatever. Even CURVED fabric forms with the right fabric fastening system. But then, some people like to do things the hard way. :) Wall/wall and wall/ceiling connections especially seem like a they would be a pain to seal, whereas typical mudding/caulking seems so much easier. And what about jambs/casings, vent grills, lighting and other things like wall switchs? I've never done it so maybe I'm missing something here. WHAT are the benefits and how do they outweigh typical construction, especially if you need multiple gyp bd layers?
fitZ :?
The saved space I think is one of the biggest benefits. You get your wall and acoustical treatment all in that one wall , while the "wall + treatment on top of it" system costs you more space...No different than panels of 703 mounted to a wall, WHAT are the benefits and how do they outweigh typical construction, especially if you need multiple gyp bd layers? fitZ :?
hey all,
to me, the benefit was space. I didn't have the 4" to loose in the room for the client. I was already working with low low ceiling height and small space. However.....
I learned a few added benefits,
1. Electrical - You only have to punch one hole in your system and mount a large j-box to then distribute to all plugs lights etc. Didn't have to punch 20 holes in system.
2. Much faster to drywall and caulk on floor rather than in up and needing ladders, etc. - I built in 8' sections so weight tilting up would not be an issue.
3. I hate to mud. I suck. this way you are anly caulking cus the wall is inside out.
4. Cost. yes it is small in the hundreds of dollars, but time = labor cost and nailing a bunch of boards up to hang fabric from is a pain in the ass and it cost to pay someone plus the matirial. This way you are ready to fabric as soon as your walls are up.
5. time. I built an entire studio in 5 1/2 weeks with this system and it usually takes me 3 months. Building the walls on the floor and the ceiling on the floor and hoisting it all up takes much less time than building in place up and down ladders, holding rock over your head waiting for someone to screw it in, caulking over head, trying to get nail boards in and hitting studs over your head. Built on the floor I had my entire ceiling system built and in place in less than two days.
6. Hvac - You can duct through the open joist in the ceiling system and go anywhere you want without punching a new big ass hole in your ceiling.
Is it hard yes. Sealing all the joining units takes paying attention to detail and trusting the people you work with to stop everything if they see an opening. hoisting the units to the ceiling and resting them on your inner leaf is a bitch on the first one, but then you see how it can be sooooo much easier and the rest go in very fast and effecient.
Not a sales pitch, hell there is nothing to buy, just my 2 cents and how it worked for me. Check local codes and talk with the plans reviewer in person to explain the whole thing and it will go very smooth.
Jai