Hi all,
I'm building a studio in my basement (post here:)
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20323
and I just had a quick question. I have been gifted a bunch of carpet and foam underlay. Obviously not the most exciting gift, but is there in fact any use for this in the studio build?
Perhaps:
- underneath walls to seat + seal them (foam)
- between walls and upright framing beams (foam)
- underneath the 2cm thick wooden floorboards (concrete underneath that)
- construction of hangers
- ceiling treatment? (carpet)
- covering base traps? (carpet)
... anything at all?!!
:) thanks!
Tim
carpet / foam underlay usages
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 20357.
Not really, unless you know what that actual technical specs are for that stuff. Let's take then one by one:is there in fact any use for this in the studio build? Perhaps:
No. What you need under your walls is something that sticks and seals and remains flexible. Acoustic caulk is the best for that, and second-best is some types of bathroom/kitchen caulk.- underneath walls to seat + seal them (foam)
Nope. your wall framing cannot touch anything else at all, so there is no "between". The framing stands on the floor, and is sealed to the floor with caulk, but it does not touch any other walls or ceilings at all.- between walls and upright framing beams (foam)
This is the ONLY possibility, but I'm not convinced that it would be useful here either: Check with the manufacturer of the flooring, to find out what types of underlay are acceptable, and use only that. However, 2cm is rather thick for laminate flooring: normally it is around 8 - 14mm. Are you sure about that? The thicker your flooring, the less headroom you have.... make them as thin as you can.- underneath the 2cm thick wooden floorboards (concrete underneath that)
No. Hangers need a core of light-weight compressed fiber-board, about 6-8 kg/m3, and about 3cm thick, with thick (5-10cm) medium density porous insulation attached (about 30 kg/m3 for fiberglass insulation, or 50 kg/m3 for mineral wool). What you have would not work for either of those.- construction of hangers
Carpet? In a studio? And on the CEILING??? :shock: Why would you want to do THAT???? :cop:- ceiling treatment? (carpet)
A very distant possibility, but we'd need to know all about the technical characteristics of that stuff.- covering base traps? (carpet)
To be honest: perhaps, but probably not. - Stuart -... anything at all?!!
Hi Stuart,
Thanks for your answer, really appreciated!
Hmm, while we're on this topic, any links to posts dicussing which ones can be used? The green glue sealant is not readily available in Germany and a bit pricey...]No. What you need under your walls is something that sticks and seals and remains flexible. Acoustic caulk is the best for that, and second-best is some types of bathroom/kitchen caulk.
OK so what I actually meant there was in between the upright beams and the leaf that those uprights are supporting - so still within one leaf.Nope. your wall framing cannot touch anything else at all, so there is no "between". The framing stands on the floor, and is sealed to the floor with caulk, but it does not touch any other walls or ceilings at all.
Well I have 2cm french pine from sustainable forest reclaimed... or I have reclaimed 6mm orange coloured fake wood laminate. The orange drives me crazy :)However, 2cm is rather thick for laminate flooring: normally it is around 8 - 14mm. Are you sure about that? The thicker your flooring, the less headroom you have.... make them as thin as you can.
No. Hangers need a core of light-weight compressed fiber-board, about 6-8 kg/m3, and about 3cm thick, with thick (5-10cm) medium density porous insulation attached (about 30 kg/m3 for fiberglass insulation, or 50 kg/m3 for mineral wool). What you have would not work for either of those.[/quote] OK good to know (makes notes in notebook)- construction of hangers
Umm clearly because I am misguided and trying to think of useful things to do with these materials :) OKOK I'll throw that idea out then!Carpet? In a studio? And on the CEILING??? :shock: Why would you want to do THAT???? :cop:
Yes that's what I was afraid of. Thanks for taking the time to clarify though! Looking forward to your next post on the design! Tim... anything at all?!! To be honest: perhaps, but probably not.
You should be looking only at caulks that do not harden: it must remain soft, rubbery and flexible even when it is completely dry. It must also stick like crazy to the surfaces that you will be applying it to! It must also not shrink or crack over time. - Stuart -Hmm, while we're on this topic, any links to posts dicussing which ones can be used?