Tin shed, adding mass

HI, I'm loving this forum and have found a heap of answers already! but alas i have also found some new questions. I am currently getting a shed built in my back yard 6m x 15m, with 3m to the gutter than a 22 degree pitch roof bringing it to around 4.5m to the apex. I need to use some of it as a shed shed, but plan on converting the rest in to a home studio. I havent sorted what dimensions i will use for the studio part yet, I'm just curious about the sound insulation at the moment. It is a colour bond shed attached to 64mm top hat with 200mm C channel columns and rafters. After reading the forum it seems that the best option is to use the colour bond as the outer leaf and construct a new stud wall as my second leaf. I was planning on putting my stud wall flush with the Column so the fyrchek could fly past the Columns effectively giving me a 264mm air gap (width of the column plus the top hat. obviously it would be great to increase the mass of the colour bond leaf, which brings me to my first question 1) Is this as simple as sticking some fyrchek to the back side of the colour bond, it would have to be done around the top hat and columns etc, or is there a better way to beef up the colour bond leaf? 2) would I put the insulation behind the fyrchek in the stud wall of the 2nd leaf? Lastly, I think its going to be a massive effort to construct a fully decoupled ceiling just using the new second leaf as the load bearing walls. Would a half decent option be to frame out the roof, following the pitch to keep the height, then use resilient channel/whisper clips to decouple the fyrchek from the ceiling framing? as the ceiling framing would be attached the the C channel rafters. Thanks John

Hi John, I'll attempt to answer your questions because I'm actually doing the same thing up here in Brisbane. 1) I cladded my shed in yellow tongue flooring, before it was covered in builders wrap and then the colourbond on top. The yellow tongue gave the benefit of being fairly cheap, stronger and more water resistant than plasterboard, and had tongue & groove edges for a better seal. My shed is a stud frame design which made it easy to clad. Obviously if your shed is already built, it's much harder to beef up the coloubond external leaf. I will be building a fully decoupled room inside. 2) put insulation between the external leaf studs, as well as the internal leaf stud walls. Just don't pack it in so tight that it forms a flanking path between leaves. Finally, I would go to the effort to build a decoupled ceiling. You will be seriously limiting the amount of isolation you can achieve by doing the ceiling any other way. Cheers Ryan

Johnbroadb wrote:

1) Is this as simple as sticking some fyrchek to the back side of the colour bond

John, with all due respect.....nothing about building a studio is simple mate. You can stick some stuff to some other stuff as much as you like but at the end of the day you're trying to beat physics. Physics is a pain in the arse :roll: You can certainly get 'X' amount of isolation from the building you have, and 'X' amount of acoustic sureity, but you need to tell us what you're goals are regarding isolation, you're estimated budget, how much you can DIY......it's a big job pal. all the best, Steve

Thanks for the Info guys,

Rizza_81 wrote:

1) I cladded my shed in yellow tongue flooring, before it was covered in builders wrap and then the colourbond on top.

Thats a great idea, a mate of mine is building the shed, the frame is almost finished, no cladding yet so I still have the opportunity to do this. Are you concerned at all that the yellow tongue might perish over time and cause problems later? What would be too tight to cause a flanking path? What would you do differently to when putting insulation in normally? again, i really appreciate the feedback.

Johnbroadb wrote:

Are you concerned at all that the yellow tongue might perish over time and cause problems later?

No, not at all. Yellow tongue is rated for 3mths exposure to the elements. Mine is fully covered with wrap & then the colourbond, so it's well protected. Sure I would've liked to have used ply but it's nearly twice the price. At the end of the day, it's about mass. The fyrechek offers the cheapest mass, but it's a risk using it on an external wall. I certainly don't have the same doubts with the yellow tongue. In regards to insulation, I would do nothing different to how it's normally done. Just lightly pack the external wall & simarly the internal decoupled wall. Usually there is a gap between the inner and outer leaves, so as long as insulation isn't packed tightly all the way through, you will be fine. Cheers Ryan

Guys - forget the colourbond as a leaf - line the inside frame (That holds the colourbond) with fyrechek then build a room within that room. cheers john

Thanks heaps! Will do

Hi John S, I would've thought that too, but I actually got advice from Rod Gervais in another forum who felt otherwise. I must admit that the benefit of adding the mass on the outer side of the framing is that it forms a fully enclosed leaf the whole way around the shed. If I cladded from the inside, I would've still had the truss to contend with, which would've been hard to seal around. If the shed was pre existing, I would probably have just clad on the inside as you've suggested. I guess this is one of those situations where there is no right answer, but I'm happy with the method I've used. Cheers Ryan