Oh what to do?

That looks fine Jeff - I'd use the same absorbers you drew before but change the shape to the new design. cheers john

Thanks John, I'm attaching two new drawings showing what I think you mean. Please correct me where I'm wrong. Do the slot absorbers look ok? can I put the slots @ an angle? I think its ok. Should the slot absorber on the ceiling trade places with the cloth false ceiling? I thought that you had recomended that. What slot width & slot size do you recomend? Should all the walls & the ceiling be different or the same?Would you recommend panel absorbers In the front corners just like the back? If so should the all be Ethans low frequency design? Or should I use hanging panels behind all of the front wall? WOW! Sorry for all the questions. That having been said any other advice would be great!! Thanks Again, Cheers! Jeff

yes. that will work and I would swap the ceilings. I wouldn't worry about the front panel absorbers, just go with the hangers. cheers john

What do you recomend for the slots, like 1" x 4", or 1"x 6" pine boards alternately spaced @ 1/8", 1/4" & 1/2"? Just curious but why switch the location of the ceilings? (i.e. why the slot absorber up front?) Speaking of the front of the room, what type of insulation do you use to wrap the soundboard with for the acoustic hangers, 703 or regular batt insulation like builders use in the walls? Should the actual walls of the room that are around the hangers have anything on them or should they be left plain old textured & painted drywall as they are now? Also the cavity behind the 703 of the slot absorbers? Thanks Yet Again, Cheers! Jeff

for the slots you can use either 6" or 4" with the gaps you specified. Work it out with the calculator at SAE. Putting the slot ceiling over you angles the front section and directs any reflections behind you. You only need use standard insulation for the hangers and I'd line the walls as well with 703. cheers JOhn

Hey John, Yes I,m back. As I,m starting to look at the reality of my layout. I was wondering If there was a way of being able to move my desk farther back in the room. The position shown is based on the 60 degree monitoring triangle. I,ve read where you,ve talked about 90 degrees what do you think about 40 or 50 degrees so that I am farther from the speakers than they are apart, since my room is long & narrow? Much Thanks yet again! Cheers! Jeff

The 90 degrees just gives a wider spread to your speakers which is nice actually - Music farm was 90 degrees and it worked fine. It also tends to make the sound at the back of the room duller as the highs are off axis so you get a warmer, softer version of the sound on the rear couch. cheers john

Sorry if I wasn't clear, but I meant more like this. The distance away from the speakers is farther than the distance between them. See previous layouts on my post shows that my room is very narrow, so I can't get a very wide spread between my speakers. I would like to be able to get behind my desk if I needed to. The current attached layouts earlier in the post only give me about 6" @ each back corner of my desk. I was hoping to move it back some, but that would necessitate changing the equal triangle of speaker layout. I was just wondering how bad that would be? Thanks again! Cheers! Jeff

Ahh sorry - I see what you mean - I wouldn't go narrower than 60 degrees if you want any feeling of spread. cheers john

John Thanks! Look at my spread is this enough distance apart? The angles are speakers @ 30 degrees for a 60 degree triangle. The sides are 6 degrees each to give me a 12 degree splaying of the room.Should this be ok to soffit mount my event 20/20's? Thanks! Jeff

Yeah jeff - that's a true 60 degree setup - It would be nice if it was wider but there is no way to do it in such a small room - mind you - it will rock :):) cheers john