Studio Design and treatment. Dual Tracking and Mixing room

Hey Everyone. Newbie Here. I've been reading this forum, Rod Gervais's book cover to cover and a lot of other sites but yet I still have no real idea how to set up my space. The good news is the room was converted from a garage years ago for our band to rehearse in and sound proofing isn't my issue. It might not be up to PRO construction standards as they would need to be, but 14 years and no neighbor or household member has ever complained, and I don't plan on doing any major altering to the room to change that. The real problem lies in getting the room materials correct (walls, ceiling, floor), treating it, and setting it up for maxim function. Now there is a lot of advice out there and I can see a lot of ideas, but I thought I would send my specific situation for advice. My gear list has grown to a nice level and now I need my room to be better. And trust me, nothing could be worse than what it was I am sure. THE FACTS ABOUT THE ROOM: The room was a 2 car garage built on top of a concert slab. I haven't taken the carpet up yet because I was going to touch up drywall and ceiling and paint before I pulled it up. The room was built pretty well for keeping sound out and in. We've never had problems with neighbors and my drummer parents that live in the house are never bothered. Right now, all the walls are plain white drywall. The floor is carpeted but I am definitely ripping that out. Questions to follow. The power isn't great and causes some hum from electric guitars, but I don't have much choice about that. The "vocal booth" closet is kinda small, but I am wondering if it can be used for vocals/amps etc if done correctly. The room is done exactly as the main room and I moved a vent from one place in the ceiling to in the closet so it could be occupied with the door closed. I'd like to try and have that room work unless it seems like a terrible idea. The 2 windows have foam boards in them to block sound both ways and then those are "hidden" by regular blinds. No curtains at the moment. The door to the rest of the house (through laundry room) is metal sort of and the other doors are wood. I know the room is already not great because it's walls are parallel, there is a weird door cavity, and there is a weird corner on the right wall. INTENTIONS: I'd like the room to sound as good as possible without any major construction. I have recorded/mixed all of my bands records in this room and they turn out pretty good, but only after listening in the car/home stereo, etc. I'd of course like it to be a lot more "true" for mixing. I like it to sound good for tracking too since the room is big enough unless someone really thinks I could split the room. I also want to be able to host clients in the room. I live in the DC area and know a lot of bands who are looking for "Cheep" studio time etc. I've been a pro tools user since 2000 and know my way around pretty well. I've also been a full time musician since then too without any other job and I'd like to see if I could make some $$ recording/mixing smaller acts demos, mixing projects, voice over, or even decent sounding records. I will also list my equipment list so you know what I am working with. QUESTIONS: 1. Where do I put the console??? I have it laid out against the "Driveway Wall" but I have no idea if this would be ideal especially with the weird wall corner on the right, and the door entrance at the bottom. 2. I know I need bass traps, absorbers, a cloud etc and I have an idea of where they supposed to go, but I don't want to just make assumptions. Based on my layout, what would be the best to use? 3. I want to paint the walls and ceiling for a cool vibe. Does paint type matter? would I be better suited with something else or just painting the drywall then having an appropriate layout of acoustical treatment. 4. Wherever the console goes, should that back wall be drywall still? I was thinking about using wood, staining and putting it on the wall for sound and decor? 5. Can the vocal booth be used and/or recommended with it's current size? 6. Really, is there anything else I am missing???? Can this room get close to sounding good based on it's design?? BUDGET: So the family who lives there is pitching in some $$ for paint, wood, flooring, but the rest will be out of pocket. I know the price can get high just on treatment, but I am willing to build anything DIY to save $$ since i have the time during the day. I can't really say a number except, just like everyone else, as little as possible to make the most dramatic effect going forward. GEAR LIST: part list so you get the idea. Pro Tools 10 - (Soundtoys, Waves Gold, URS plugins) UA Apollo Quad (most of the best plugs. 1176s, la2as, Fairchilds, API 550/560, Vision, Manly, Studer, Fatso, Ampex,Shadow Hills, Neve 88RS, roland, lex 224) UA Satellite Quad API 3124 (2) 8 channels Chandler TG2 2 channels Pacifica 2 channels Distressor (2) Lunchbox: API 512, API 550b, Vintech 573 Telfunkin M-16 AKG 414 xls (2) Peluso CMC-6 (2) Senn 421s, 906s Audix D6, D2s, D4s, Shure SM7, 57s, beta 57s beta 52 AT 4033's I have crappy Mackie monitors right now, but I plan on upgrading at some point in the future depending on what works best for the room. So that's about it. I know I have will have to do some experimenting, but I hope I can get an idea of where to start and dig deep to the nitty gritty later. I have already pulled everything in the center of the room and I'm going to be sanding and painting the next few days and then deciding what to do with the back wall once I know where the console should go. I won't have any problems getting the wall and ceiling painted and the floor done soon. PS. I haven't used SketchUP yet because It might be too much for what I need. I used Illustrator and did a 1 inch = 2 pixel ratio to get a very close estimation on the size of everything. All the dimensions and info is on the attached jpeg. Thanks in advance for any direction. Cheers, Chris

Hey Everyone, Was my post to lengthy? To general? I tried to give a lot of info but I'm not sure if I've violated any rules. Please let me know if I need to provide anything else. Cheers, Chris

Hi Chris, and Welcome to the forum! Sorry about the delay in getting a response: Right now I am a bit overwhelmed with a large project that I'm finishing up, and it seems there aren't many other people helping out on the forum right now with answers. I do have your thread lined up for a response: the only trouble is, there's quite a few other threads lined up ahead of it. I will respond, just as soon as I'm able, but I sure do hope someone else notices your thread and responds as well! - Stuart -

Thanks so much Stuart, I completely understand. I've been reading a lot in the past few days and it looks like you guys are always on here helping, I didn't realize how many hours you all put into this, you, John, and many others. I know everyone here is very appreciative. I am still trying to answer some of my own questions with research, but I will wait to see what you all think. Cheers, Chris!

Thanks for the kind words, Chris. I decided to "jump you up the queue" so to speak, since I'm replying to your thread anyway, and I have a couple of minutes on hand...! :)

but 14 years and no neighbor or household member has ever complained,

Cool! So no extra isolation needed: just treatment.

The room was a 2 car garage built on top of a concert slab.

Concrete slab is always a good start. Good for isolation, and also great as a studio floor, just like that.

The floor is carpeted but I am definitely ripping that out.

Smart move.

The power isn't great and causes some hum from electric guitars, but I don't have much choice about that.

That should be fixable: sounds like you have an earthing issue some place. Do you now how the earthing for the house is wired? Do you have only one single earthing point for the entire house?

The 2 windows have foam boards in them to block sound both ways

Ummm... foam doesn't really "block sound". Technically it absorbs a portion of the sound passing through it by converting it into low-grade heat. Another way of thinking about it, is that it damps sound in the same way as a shock absorber "damps" a bumpy ride. But it does not block sound, in the sense of isolating. I'm also wondering how you manage to see through your windows if the have foam bards in them! Foam isn't very transparent... :shock: 8)

I know the room is already not great because it's walls are parallel,

That's fine. The only real issue with parallel walls is flutter echo, but that can be dealt with in several ways. And having parallel walls makes it much easier to predict the acoustic response of the room.

1. Where do I put the console???

Right where you have it in your sketch. That's the best place for it. set it up so that your ears will be about 88 inches from the front wall when you are comfortably seated at the console..

2. I know I need bass traps, absorbers, a cloud etc and I have an idea of where they supposed to go, but I don't want to just make assumptions. Based on my layout, what would be the best to use?

The front and rear vertical corners are the usual first candidates, but in your case the rear corners look a bit "iffy" due to the doors there. You should be OK on the left side, where the iso booth is, as there's just enough space between the door and the wall there for a superchunk, but the right side (furnace door) doesn't look feasible. How about putting a trap across the top of the rear wall, in the wall/ceiling corner?

3. I want to paint the walls and ceiling for a cool vibe. Does paint type matter?

Nope: At least, not for typical house paints. There actually is an "acoustic" paint out now, that does have a minor effect, but you don't need that: just use any paint that happens to look good.

4. Wherever the console goes, should that back wall be drywall still?

Umm... the back wall has three doors in it, and there doesn't seem to be very much drywall there at all!

5. Can the vocal booth be used and/or recommended with it's current size?

It's probably a bit on the small side for vocals, but still usable. And definitely usable as an amp iso booth, albeit not ideal. But you won't get a very high level of isolation from it, since you are using only one door.

6. Really, is there anything else I am missing????

Probably about a million things.... :) A couple that you didn't ask but will need to know anyway: 1) Your room is nearly square (233" vs 230"), so the modal response is not going to be good. I would opt for additional bass trapping. 2) Speakers go on stands that produce the final correct height: the acoustic axis must be 1.2 meters above the floor, which is 47-1/4" . Do not put the on the desk, or the meter bridge: only on heavy, massive, rigid stands, behind the desk, up against the front wall. They should be about 76" from the side walls, meaning they will be about 103" apart, and about 90" from your head. Angle them inwards at about 30°, so the acoustic axes are pointing just past your ears, and meeting at an angle of about 60° roughly 18" behind your head. 3) You need acoustic absorption on your first reflection points, and on most of your ceiling, as well as most of your rear wall. That rear wall is going to be an issue... 4) HVAC: I don't see it... ?

I have crappy Mackie monitors right now, but I plan on upgrading at some point in the future depending on what works best for the room.

Have you considered the Adam A7x? I think it would work well for that room. Or maybe a nice set of Genelecs...

PS. I haven't used SketchUP yet because It might be too much for what I need.

Do yourself a favor: Spend a couple of hours going through the basic tutorials until you get the hang of it, then do your room layout again in SketchUp. And after you are done, let us know if you still think SketchUp is too much and illustrator is better! :) :lol: :!: - Stuart -

Stuart, I can't begin to thank you enough for the information in your post. I've done a few things to the room and noted your measurements etc and have a few follow up questions and notes. 1. I pulled all the carpet out and I'm deciding to just keep the concrete the way it is since it looks pretty cool. I am planning on an area rug under the console and some other rugs in that half of the room leaving the other half more "live" for tracking. I'll also have other rugs on hand in case I need less reflection on the surface. Should I stain the concrete or just leave it be? For now, I am going to leave it for cost and other reasons but I might get around to it someday if it will look better. 2. I'm looking into the power grounding and I have an electrician friend who is going to check things out when he has some time. 3. Bass traps. Here is what I am planning on doing after much research. 2' x 8' bass traps made with OC 705 2 or 4" thick (not sure). I am going to make a frame with wood and cover them with burlap or fabric that isn't reflective. I am going to make 4 and put them in the corners like you said and since the furnace doesn't need to be accessed through both doors, I CAN use one in that corner. I was also thinking about putting "feet" on the 2 in the back so they could be moved if necessary. Questions on Bass traps…. 3.a: Is the OC 705 4" thick the correct product or is there a better company (and/or cheaper) that I should go with. Any suggestions where to buy??? 3.b: other than the 4 corners, what other places are imperative and how many more should I really do? 3.c: Should I make them 2x8 or split them up and make two 2x4's. Ceiling is 101" so it could have an inch or 2 gap above, below and in-between the pair of them. 4. Midrange/Hi frequency absorbers: I know I'll need many of these. First reflection points. front wall/backwall. Celing etc. 4.a: How many should I have for this room??? 4.b: is OC 703, 2'x4' the correct product with same question about the company/cost. 4.c: Should the fiberglass be 1" or 2" thick for these 4.d: I was planing on mounting them away from the wall to allow sound to be caught behind it as well as in front. I've ready that helps with more absorption. Is this true? How far away? 4.e: Should these be mounted so I can take them on and off? 5. Cloud: I was looking at some GIK and Steven Klein. Should I buy one? Should I just use absorbers above? Can I use tapestry's to tame some reflections as well as absorbers? 6. Corners where the wall meet ceiling: Should I put anything in the corners? Crown Molding, wood, strips of fiberglass? Angled Bass Traps all around. 7. The iso Booth: There is carpet in there right now and drywall everywhere else. How could I go about making this useful for vocals. Just absorption everywhere. When I used it before for vocals and amps I had put packing blankets on the wall and I do have 3 pieces of fiberglass a friend game me that I used as a cloud and on the walls in addition to the blankets. 8. You Mention the rear wall is going to be an issue. I agree. Is there anything to do with this besides put up every panel I can afford? in the mini hallway area, should those walls have anything like wood for diffusion or just panels, panels, and more panels. This area is also where gear is loaded in and out of. I am looking into those speakers you suggested and will be setting up my console with all the measurements you suggested. I am also doing some Sketch Up and will try to post something soon. Thanks so much again. Cheers, Chris

Wow! Lotsa questions! :)

Should I stain the concrete or just leave it be?

That's more or an aesthetic thing than an acoustic thing: if you like the way it looks as bare concrete, then keep it like that. On the other hand, staining and polishing can also look really nice. Search the forum for "stain concrete" and see what you come up with... there are some stunning examples of what some folks have accomplished in their studios.

2. I'm looking into the power grounding and I have an electrician friend who is going to check things out when he has some time.

Great! Tell him that the most important issue for studios is to follow a "star grounding" scheme, with all plugs wired back to a single central point, which is then wired with thick copper conductor to the one and only actual grounding rod (or grounding grid, as the case may be). If you have two (or more) grounding points, then you are letting yourself in for trouble. The same applies to ground loop paths within the studio.

2' x 8' bass traps made with OC 705 2 or 4" thick (not sure).

OC-705 is too dense for bass traps. Go with OC-703. And instead of making them 4" thick, I'd go with the "superchunk" design. Use the search feature to see how to do that: there are many examples.

I was also thinking about putting "feet" on the 2 in the back so they could be moved if necessary.

Or maybe wheels instead? They won't be very heavy, since 703 is pretty light, so you could easily wheel them around as needed.

3.a: Is the OC 705 4" thick the correct product or is there a better company (and/or cheaper) that I should go with. Any suggestions where to buy???

OC-703 is pretty much the best stuff out there, but you can also use practically any type of mineral wool that has a density of around 50 kg/m3, or any type of fiberglass that has a density of about 30 kg/m3.

3.b: other than the 4 corners, what other places are imperative and how many more should I really do?

There are 12 corners in a room, not just 4... :) think about it...

3.c: Should I make them 2x8 or split them up and make two 2x4's. Ceiling is 101" so it could have an inch or 2 gap above, below and in-between the pair of them.

If you do superchunks, make them floor to ceiling. You get the best effect in the "tri-corners" (wall-wall-ceiling and wall-wall-floor). That's the place where all room modes terminate.

4. Midrange/Hi frequency absorbers: I know I'll need many of these. First reflection points. front wall/backwall. Celing etc. 4.a: How many should I have for this room???

Start by covering your two side wall first reflection points with at least 4" of 703 (6 would be better, if you can afford the space). Use the "mirror trick" to find out exactly where those first reflection points are. Also put absorption between your speakers and the front wall, and on the entire rear wall.

4.b: is OC 703, 2'x4' the correct product .

Yes, that's fine. And same answer as above also applies.

4.d: I was planing on mounting them away from the wall to allow sound to be caught behind it as well as in front. I've ready that helps with more absorption. Is this true? How far away?

People often mount them the same distance as the thickness: so 4" gap for a 4" panel, etc. However, you can make the gap as big as you want, or as small as you have to.

4.e: Should these be mounted so I can take them on and off?

If you want to, yes. For example, to clean them occasionally. French cleats is a good way of doing that.

5. Cloud: I was looking at some GIK and Steven Klein. Should I buy one? Should I just use absorbers above? Can I use tapestry's to tame some reflections as well as absorbers?

You can make your own cloud: it's just some more 703 in a frame, hung from chains. If you make it hard-backed (thick plywood panel on top) and angle it, then you get extra benefits...

6. Corners where the wall meet ceiling: Should I put anything in the corners?

Bingo! Perfect territory for bass traps....

7. The iso Booth: There is carpet in there right now and drywall everywhere else. How could I go about making this useful for vocals. Just absorption everywhere. When I used it before for vocals and amps I had put packing blankets on the wall and I do have 3 pieces of fiberglass a friend game me that I used as a cloud and on the walls in addition to the blankets.

Really small booths are best treated to death, with as much absorption as possible. Larger booths can have less absorption and even some diffusion, or maybe a slot wall.

8. You Mention the rear wall is going to be an issue. I agree. Is there anything to do with this besides put up every panel I can afford?

That's about all you can do, realistically. Hope that helps! - Stuart -

You Sir are the MAN!!!! This is all starting to make sense and now I'm off to do the leg work. Lots of 703 to buy and start building panels. Thanks again and Cheers! Chris

But don't forget one important point! There's a saying around here: "Pics, or it didn't happen". You have to post pics here of how you build your panels, or else nobody will believe that you actually did it! :) - Stuart -

I am photo journaling the whole project! I just ordered 480 sf of 703 from SPI here in Landover, MD. That is 60 sheets for a start. I know I'll need more, but $$$ will be an issue till next month. I'll just do another order. I plan on doing my panels in first reflection points you suggested like the 25 min/$25 acoustic panel thread suggests. I like the simplicity and high praise for this design. 4" with spacing behind them on fresh cleats. I plan on doing the 4 superchuncks in the corners. Maybe back 2 on wheels for movement. Haven't decided on a design. There are many out there but I am trying to find the best solution for ascetics. I want to do the cloud as you suggested. What dimensions do think is good for the cloud? I was thinking 3 2x4 panels together. so a 6 feet wide panel from left to right and the 4 foot front to back. Slightly angled up and with full plywood on the ceiling facing side. What do you think?? I'll continue to post here once I get my materials in. Cheers, Chris

I want to do the cloud as you suggested. What dimensions do think is good for the cloud? I was thinking 3 2x4 panels together. so a 6 feet wide panel from left to right and the 4 foot front to back. Slightly angled up and with full plywood on the ceiling facing side. What do you think??

Sounds like a good plan to me! Hang it from chains, so you can adjust both the height and the angle as needed to fine-tune the room response, and make sure those chains are well secured: you do NOT want that bunch landing on your head one day...! :shock: Do not use "S" hooks: only closed fasteners. And do use oversize chain that can take ten times more weight than you'll be putting on it. And do check that your attachment points are firm, solid, stable, and can safely handle the load. OK, so it's not exactly hundreds of tons, but you still want to make sure that it ain't never gonna come loose and mash your skull down through your ankles... :) - Stuart -

Hey Stuart, Updates and Questions. Well I've started the super chunks and will have a full document tomorrow hopefully. Here are a couple of starter photos. First Corner. Making Frame to cover. Left Corner Building 1. For the absorbers behind the speakers. Should they be mounted so the speakers are right in the middle. Should this panel be right on the wall, and how far from the panel should the speaker be. Right up against it? or set back a bit. Earlier you said to have it up against the wall sort of which makes sense. Also, should these be 2" or 4"? I plan on doing 4" for first reflections. 2. Leads me to spacing.

Speakers go on stands that produce the final correct height: the acoustic axis must be 1.2 meters above the floor, which is 47-1/4" . Do not put the on the desk, or the meter bridge: only on heavy, massive, rigid stands, behind the desk, up against the front wall. They should be about 76" from the side walls, meaning they will be about 103" apart, and about 90" from your head. Angle them inwards at about 30°, so the acoustic axes are pointing just past your ears, and meeting at an angle of about 60° roughly 18" behind your head.

I set these up 76" from each wall but the distance between them was 81" or so, not 103". the total room width is 233" and they don't add up. which calculations should I change? 3. Celing Cloud. I started framing out the cloud. 72" wide x 48" long. Should this be 4" or 2" and how thick should the plywood on the back be??? Also how far from the ceiling at the back (wall) end and the front end (room). I see people angle clouds a bit so the front end twords the room/engineer is higher then the lower hanging twords wall/speakers. 4. I think I am going to make a super chunk across the back ceiling corner in that back doorway. Should I do this corner idea above the doors for the HVAC/FURNACE and Vocal Booth??? Thanks again. After these small photos I'll upload my whole SuperChunk Process with descriptions. Then the regular panels. Cheers, Chirs

Well I've started the super chunks and will have a full document tomorrow hopefully. Here are a couple of starter photos.

Looking good! :)

1. For the absorbers behind the speakers. Should they be mounted so the speakers are right in the middle. Should this panel be right on the wall, and how far from the panel should the speaker be. Right up against it? or set back a bit. Earlier you said to have it up against the wall sort of which makes sense. Also, should these be 2" or 4"? I plan on doing 4" for first reflections.

Make them 4", right up against the wall, and with the speakers right up against the panels, leaving maybe just an inch there, for good air flow over the back of the speaker. Yes, set up the panels so the speaker is roughly centered.

I set these up 76" from each wall but the distance between them was 81" or so, not 103". the total room width is 233" and they don't add up. which calculations should I change?

Looks like I screwed up there with my math! :oops: Sorry about that! I think I meant to write 66" from the side walls, not 76"... That would put them 101" apart, which is roughly the right geometry for that room. The rest shoudl work out OK then...

3. Celing Cloud. I started framing out the cloud. 72" wide x 48" long. Should this be 4" or 2"

4"

and how thick should the plywood on the back be???

How thick can you make it before the ceiling joists give way? :) Seriously, 3/4" would be good.

Also how far from the ceiling at the back (wall) end and the front end (room). I see people angle clouds a bit so the front end twords the room/engineer is higher then the lower hanging twords wall/speakers.

Right. Higher over the mix position, and lower over the speakers. Try to get an angle of about 12° or more, if you can.

4. I think I am going to make a super chunk across the back ceiling corner in that back doorway. Should I do this corner idea above the doors for the HVAC/FURNACE and Vocal Booth???

Yes! It is practically impossible to have too much bass trapping in a small room, so put in as many as you want, and make them as big as you can. However, don't put the final fabric covers on yet: you might need to pt some type of membrane over them, to keep the highs in the room... So build them first, then test the room with REW, and decide what is needed before covering them with cloth. - Stuart -

Well I am done with most of my work. I wanted to separate my projects since I feel like I did a good job of documenting the process, cost, and materials. This will be the first of 5 posts about how I designed my SuperChunks, Absorbers, Cloud, Ceiling Chunks, and Gobo's. (Gobo's to come later) SUPERCHUNKS The basic idea for this design came from many different sources it is hard to credit one single post or information. There are a lot of good methods to make permanent, semi permanent, and movable Superchunks. I decided to go with a semi permanent design that works well with the room I am in and doesn't limit the size or mobility should I change spaces. MATERIALS: OC 703 2": 50 square feet (6.25 boards) @ $0.73 = $36.00 1x2 x 10ft pine for grill cover: 3 @ $3.97 = $12 2x2 x 8ft for corner brackets: 1/2 piece @ $3.37 = $1.69 4 L Brackets: 1 package @ $3.28 Black Burlap: 3 yards @ $2.99 = $8.97 1/2 inch Staples: $.50 est Velcro Strips: 4 inches @ $.15 = $.60 est Screws for Corners: = $.15 est Liquid Nails: $.10 est Sub Total: $63.29 + MD State Tax 6% Total Cost for 1 SuperChunk = $67 4 super chunks = $268 TOOLS: Miter Saw Power Drill Staple Gun Calk Gun Sharpie Measuring Tape Straight Edge STEPS: Empty Corner - 101 inches tall Owings Corning 703 (12 per pack) 24" x 48" x 2" Measured 24", Cut the board in half. Then cut into 8 identical wedges. Stacked tightly without any support in the corner till about 60" high Corner Bracket for Support. Cut 2x2" at 45 degree angle so it sticks out about and inch from the wedge. Screwed together then anchored into stud. screwed in cross bar for extra support. Stack the rest of the wedges (about 40") to the ceiling allowing some room for top corner bracket. Added top bracket. Made frame out of 1x2 pine by cutting 2 identical pieces 100" (leaving a little room for the fabric on top and bottom). Added 3 cross bars at top, bottom and middle. Secured with Liquid Nails and 5 staples on each side. Added L brackets to the 4 inside corners for additional support. For future frames I will use triangle cuts to save money since the frames are not in need of heavy support. Attached burlap around one side of frame and staple on the back. (Thanks for some ladies guidance) Line up frame in corner. Stapled one side of velcro to ends of both corner brackets and corresponding areas on back of frame. Stand in corner and push velcro together firmly. The finished Superchunk looks like a big speaker and quite nice for my room. The fabric is very breathable, but might not be the best for a more professional look. I tried to go cheap as possible since this is a vibe room. I could have saved a bit on the L brackets, but other than that I would say this is about as cheap as you can get for these. I put 3 in the main corners of my room, and one in the small mid corner leaving the back corner where a door is in the way for a movable Gobo.

This idea came from the 25 minute, $25 acoustic panel thread on John Sayers Forum. I only made small tweaks and for 2 of them I used French Cletes and others I used/will use L brackets for mounting. MATERIALS: OC 703 2": 16 square feet (2 boards) @ $0.73 = $11.68 White Stretch Fabric: 1 yards @ $10.99 = $11.21 1x2 x 10ft pine for frame: 1 @ $3.97 = $3.97 2.5" L Brackets for wall mounting = $1.49 1/2 inch Staples: $.50 est Liquid Nails: $.15 est Hot Glue: $.10 est French Cleat: $7.97 (optional) Sub Total: $27.61 + MD State Tax 6% Total Cost for 1 Pannel = $30.76 W/ French Cleat = $37.70 Grand Total (6 reg, 2 fc) = $259.96 (My cost is slightly higher than $25 because I used a very nice fabric instead of burlap and 1x2 Pine instead of ferrying strips. cost would have been about $4 cheaper with burlap, and $2 cheaper with Strips.) TOOLS: Measuring Tape Miter Saw Power Drill Staple Gun Calk Gun Hot Glue Gun STEPS: Measured and cut pieces of 1x2 to frame out the 2x4 OC board. Cut triangle corners for added support and cheaper than L brackets (could have done this for super chunks too and will in the future). I cut enough of everything so I could make an assembly line for 9 frames where I sat in the middle and made the frames one after another without having to get up. Liquid Nailed and stapled the frames together on one side. Did the same with the corner pieces, then flipped the frame and stapled the other side. These are very stable for how light and simple the design it. Placed 1 board down on the fabric. Hot Glued the next board on top of it. Hot Glued the Frame to the back of the board to create a 4" absorber and 3/4 inch frame. Tightehned fabric and stapled to the back end of the frame. 2 are going behind my speakers so I attached pre made french cleats from Home Depot to the frame and to the wall so they sit right against the wall. Finished and Mounted!!! These were quite easy and using the assembly line method you can crank these out quite quickly. After doing the mirror trick and measuring behind my speakers I now have 5 mounted and plan to have more as time/money allows. Cheers

Thanks, Chris! Looks pretty good, and I'll bet you can hear the difference in your room already... ? - Stuart -