i am having trouble building my studio and unfortunately i have had no help after i went through the time to measure and msg admin cause the epitome of this forum pertains to my exact situation but no hard feelings if i can just get a yes or no if this is a proper two leaf wall i will just replicate it.
thank yeww
http://mobtownstudios.com/double-wall-construction/
Is this a Proper two leaf wall?
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 18356.
No. It will work, but they are wasting a lot of money there, since they have separate stud frames and also resilient channel: with a properly designed wall, you do not need both. Resilient channel is only needed for single stud walls, or walls where the studs are mechanically connected to the building structure in some way. So imagine eliminating the resilient channel from that photo, then you have a proper 2-leaf MSM wall. (provided that the wall does not touch any part of the existing structure). If you are having trouble with the concepts, I would suggest that you buy the book "Home Recording Studio: Build it Like the Pros", by Rod Gervais. He explains the concepts very clearly. - Stuart - - Stuart -if this is a proper two leaf wall
okay so let me get this straight.
(lets say were looking at the wall from the side)
1/4" drywall sheet glued to 5/8" drwall. screwed into 2x4 insulated with rock wool, 2 inch air gap, 2x4 insulated with rock wool 5/8 drywall glued to 1/4" dryall...thats a proper 2 leaf wall?
i heard when doing the drywall to mix up the sizes so the frequencie weaknesses are spread out...
and
does it have to be green glue or can i use butyl caulk?
okay so let me get this straight.
(lets say were looking at the wall from the side)
1/4" drywall sheet glued to 5/8" drwall. screwed into 2x4 insulated with rock wool, 2 inch air gap, 2x4 insulated with rock wool 5/8 drywall glued to 1/4" dryall...thats a proper 2 leaf wall?
i heard when doing the drywall to mix up the sizes so the frequencie weaknesses are spread out...
and
does it have to be green glue or can i use butyl caulk?
almost, but not quite! A couple of things about that: Not glued! You cannot glue drywall in place: it must always be screwed, and only screwed: no glue. (Unless it is Green Glue, which is not glue anyway, despite the name. Green Glue is an acoustic damper that works very well, but it is not glue, and there are no substitutes). So you screw (or nail) the first layer of 5/8" drywall to the studs, using half the normal nailing schedule, then you add the second layer of drywall, using the other half of the nailing schedule (and with Green Glue in between, if you choose to do that). Also, the second layer should be 5/8", just like the first. It's a myth that using different thickness layers will make the wall better: It wont. Or rather, it's not totally a myth: it is true that there will be slightly improved losses from changing from one material to the other, but the slight gain is offset by the huge loss of having thinner, lighter, more flexible drywall as the second layer. You should NEVER use 1/4" drywall in acoustic isolation walls: it is terrible. Even 1/2" is too thin and light. Use only 5/8" drywall. So a proper two-leaf wall, the type you see here on the forum frequently, in many builds, is this: 2 layers of 5/8" fire-rated drywall screwed or nailed to 2x4 studs, possibly with Green Glue in between the layers, and with either fiberglass or mineral wool insulation in the stud bays, then a gap of about an inch or so, then a second 2x4 stud frame, also filled with insulation, and also with 2 layers of 5/8" fire-rated drywall screwed or nailed to 2x4 studs, possibly with Green Glue in between the layers. That's a really good two-leaf wall. In addition, the inner-leaf of each room cannot touch the outer-leaf at any point. So you cannot attach the inner-leaf wall studs to the outer leaf walls or ceiling: the inner leaf must be built properly as a self-supporting, independent structure that stands on its own, without being connected to the outer leaf at any point. If you look around the forum, you'll find many threads that demonstrate how to do that correctly (and a few that show how NOT to do it! :) ) - Stuart -1/4" drywall sheet glued to 5/8" drwall. screwed into 2x4 insulated with rock wool, 2 inch air gap, 2x4 insulated with rock wool 5/8 drywall glued to 1/4" dryall...thats a proper 2 leaf wall?
oh i see. i meant glue as in the sheets togather but green glue seems too expensive to make a realistic difference. like im sure it does but not enough to matter in a mix....i could be wrong.
what about ceilings? mine are 13 ft high and go up into an upside down V.
im having trouble understanding what you mean...any links or examples?In addition, the inner-leaf of each room cannot touch the outer-leaf at any point. So you cannot attach the inner-leaf wall studs to the outer leaf walls or ceiling: the inner leaf must be built properly as a self-supporting, independent structure that stands on its own, without being connected to the outer leaf at any point.
It does make a difference, but it sure is expensive! Many people don't use it, simply because of the price. It is effective, and does work, but you only really need it if you have to have really good isolation in low frequencies.green glue seems too expensive to make a realistic difference. like im sure it does but not enough to matter in a mix....i could be wrong.
If you are going with a complete fully-decoupled 2-leaf MSM system, then the inner-leaf walls go up to just short of the outer-leaf, and stop there. They then support the inner-leaf ceiling, such that there are no mechanical connections between the inner-leaf and outer-leaf. This is often called "room-in-a-room" construction: which is exactly what it sounds like: your existing room is the "outer-leaf", and you build a new room inside that, with its own walls and ceiling. The inner-leaf cannot touch the outer-leaf at all: they are two separate things, with only air between them. - Stuart -what about ceilings? mine are 13 ft high and go up into an upside down V.