Installing a door - anything I should keep in mind?

Nice illustration, Steve -- looks like a great plan. Since some of us don't have the tools needed to "trim down a 2x4" lengthwise, I was wondering... Instead of "trimming down" 2x4s, could one just use 2x3s, which measure 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" naturally? I would think in that case you could avoid the "single layer of drywall near hinge" thing. I also wonder (...don't shoot...) what codes call for -- is trimming a stud or using a 2x3s kosher in this context? --Keith

"Trimming", or ripping, can be done with a circular saw if you're careful; naturally a table or radial saw is better. Those hinge-side studs need to be as close to full width as possible for strength to support the hinges and weight of the door, so a 2x3 wouldn't be as strong. Also, note the position of the flat part of the finish frame where hinges go - this just doesn't lend itself to double drywall, period. You want solid wood behind the finish frame for hinge screws, not drywall. IIRC, code wouldn't be violated by this because there are other, full-size studs in close proximity. No guarantee there though, I'm not on the machine that has full codes installed plus I'm in the middle of graveyard 12's ATM, so :cry: :cry: :cry:

Just a side note on the DIY door cleating and sealing method that Steve mentioned eariler in the thread for anyone using square self adhesive weather seal. I tried this last night with my first door but ran into one small problem I thought I would share. When you press the cleat and weather seal up against the "hinged" side of the door (or any other side) you compress the rubber by about 10-20% to get a nice tight seal before you nail/screw the cleat down. Unfortunatlly, on the hinged side of the door when you open the door the rubber expands and then when you go to close it again the inward swinging corner of the door hits the rubber seal on the edge and either pulls it of the cleat of compresses into a funny shape that makes it nearly impossible to close the door. I have not found a fix for this yet, I tried moving the cleat but to get a good seal the same problem keeps happening. I think I will have to go back to the rubber/DIY shop and get some 1/2" x 1/2" "triangle" shaped rubber, if such a thing exists, to fit in this corner where the cleat meets the door frame. I will let you know how it goes after the weekend - still alot cheaper than a seal kit and the results on the top/bottom and other side look good so far except I keep tripping over the bottom cleat!! JG

Very interesting. It would be great if you could post a picture of this problem. :)

Will do JohnG

John, you will probably need to mount the hinge side of your seal to the door jamb itself, so it doesn't get pushed sideways when the door closes - I'll know more when you post a pic or sketch of what's what... Steve

Thats what I thought Steve, problem was the gap between the hinge and the door is about 5-7mm and the rubber I have is 12mm. It just would not compress that much when I shut the door. I think I will just but some wider (door width), thinner (hindge gap thickness) rubber for the jam the hindges attach to like you suggested and then run cleats around the bottom, top and handle side jams (other three sides). Thanks and heres the photo showing the cleat and door. As you can see with 12mm rubber on this "hindge" side cleat it will get knocked of when the door closes. Possible fixes are triangle shape rubber or thin, wide rubber stuck directlly to the jam over top of where you see the hindges sow when the door shuts it compresses into the gap. JohnG

No, pop off that piece of door stop (thats the unpainted wood in your picture) attach the closed cell foam seal to the frame of the stop first, slide it loosely into position, close the door all the way where you want it, and nail the stop with seal attached back to door jamb nice and tight up against the the door in it's closed position. I just did this today :wink:

That's what I did but when I pushed the foam up it compressed by about 20% against the door. When the door opened the foam expanded by this 20% and when I went to shut it again this expansion was just enough to catch the inward swinging corner of the door. Maybe I compressed the seal/foam to much? but I thought this was important to get a really tight seal. How much did you compress your foam? What's the seal like - soundproof? JohnG

Ohhh, I think I get it. Maybe the solution is to put the seal not on the cleat or stop, but on the frame between the cleat and the room. This is only on that side -- the seals would be on the cleat for the other three sides. I hope that makes sense!

In my opinion you don't need that much compression. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong anyone, but all you need is a "tight" seal (no gaps) not alot of compression. Besides closed cell foam doesn't compress that much anyway. Are you sure you're using closed cell?

This is what I did

no picture

JohnGardner wrote:

no picture

I'm looking at it. What do I have that you don't?

No pic here... Just a square w/ a red X.

I went to my other computer and I can't see it either. I'm workin on it to see why.

http://www.msnusers.com/Publicfile/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=1 This will have to do for now until I figure how to post pictures on this site.

Finally got the door seal sorted and square rubber was fine after all. The trick is to: Stick the rubber to the cleat first Then shut the door THEN screw the cleat into place. Another tip is to start with the opposite side to the hinges as this is where the seal is more likely going to fail so if you get this nice and tight the rest of the door should fall into place. Here's a shot looking down at the bottom of the door. Left seal installed, right to be done. Hope this helps someone. JG

Awesome! The photos really complement the story too, John. Thanks for sharing! 8)

Thats exactly what I meant. Good job! :wink:

And a nice drawing of door framing, rough opening, by Mr Knightfly from Ruben's build. Found this thankfully before hanging my doors! :wink:

Some great info here, and this place popped up near the very top when I googled "soundproof door". I'm just interested in making a bedroom door quieter, but I found some OTHER useful info, mainly on suppliers of ready-made doors with good sound insulation, so I posted that info in a thread, here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15528 Useful links: http://www.trustile.com/techinfo/sound.asp (tech specs from an MDF door manufacturer in the US) http://www.zerointernational.com/ (manufactures hardware kits that go with door installations) Cheers!

Nice topic, I think you should take advice to an expert. Thank you [SPAM LINK DELETED - SPAMMER DELETED, BANNED, AND BLOCKED]

nicholashawkins wrote:

Nice topic, I think you should take advice to an expert. Thank you

And I think you should take the advice of THIS expert, and take a hike! And get banned, just like all other low-life spammers. (Oh wait! That already happened! As it always goes... Spammers don't last long here....)