Help me DIY Build Studio in the Garage as cheap as possible.

It has been said, but might seem like it was not...your existing roof is your exterior leaf so anything you do within the confines of this project, like the massing up of the upper side of the joists and adding clips and hat-track to the lower side effectively produce a lower transmission assembly If you cannot install framing on the new interior wall assemblies then you best placement is this. Remove the interior ceiling sheathing if it exists, and install the clips and track, or RC2 and then install the mass for each individual room with no connection what-so-ever between these rooms. You will be installing a fire block at the top of wall to top of wall connection between the framing assemblies if ONLY for the purpose of eliminating/reducing sound transference from the exterior to the interior air space.

thanks for replies guys this part has me scratching head !!!!!! I would like to just "do it right", and rest new joists on top of the new framing of the room withing room and cancel the clips and hat channel for ceiling and do it right. "You could also size the joists correctly to handle the load without having to worry about the existing joists". What size joist would I need to support 2 possible 3 layers of drywall? could I space them 24" on center? ps updated with my name

Great to have a name! Not sure what "Love528" means, but "Tom" sounds better to me!

What size joist would I need to support 2 possible 3 layers of drywall? could I space them 24" on center?

That depends on a lot of factors, mostly the span, the load, and the type of wood. There are span tables that tell you what distance you can span with what live and dead load for what type of wood, for both 16" OC and 24" OC, but you should probably ask a local contractor or structural engineer, and also check your building code, to find out what is allowed. I doubt that you'll be able to go with 24" OC for three layers of 5/8": that's a lot of weight, even for 2x10, unless you are going over a very short span. But check the span tables and get professional advice in your area. You can't guess, and this is dangerous stuff: you don't want the whole roof coming down on your head because you misread a table or guess wrong! Your profile says you are in Hawaii, and that is earthquake territory, I think, so you don't want to get your structural integrity wrong... - Stuart -

"The current inside dimensions are L x 19.4 W x 17.4 H x 9’" Framing spans are taken from out side of the prospective wall frame to the opposite wall outside. A Number 2 Southern Pine 2 X 8 placed on a 16 inch layout, with a dead load of 10 pounds per square foot and a deflection of 240, will span 17 feet 5 inches. This is NOT a recommendation, this is an observation.

you guys are awesome this is helping me understand and have more of an intelligent conversation with contractor thanks so much! cant wait to get past these initial issues and get to building this thing with a solid plan

We know :)

haven't got back word yet if new 2x8 joist, (16" on center) can handle load I was bored so I sketched up the room within a room 2" air gap walls and ceiling here's some pics and I'll upload the sketch up file in a min

here is link to direct download of latest sketch up file http://www.mediafire.com/file/g8lka7a7o ... ge%208.rar I hope I'm building my components right and its not a pita for someone else to modify if ever need be I used layers to add certain elements such as joist or drywall etc...

Tried to download your file, Tom, and got this: "Invalid or Deleted File. " :shock: :?: - Stuart -

should be good now

One year later--any updates on this project?

1 year later? This thread wasn't even started until Wed Jul 20, 2011 6:39 pm ...about a month ago....you drinkin and driving again? :)

thanks for waiting around for me guys, your support means a lot! life kinda got in the way but back on track and ready to do this! update time the architect that designed the garage said a 4x8x18 ft center support beam with 2x4 cross joist will hold the load. One other contractor said it would hold load too, so that's good enough for me. Just hope we don't die during a session :roll: contractor said I could use two 2x10s sandwiched and glued together instead of beam if I want to save money but I think I'll go with beam for peace of mind. I have uploaded updated pics and and updated sketch-up file to show where I am at and where were going http://www.mediafire.com/file/a7e2zrj0s ... 0sweet.rar Now if I got your guys blessing I can move forward kinda, but I'm still at a loss on what to do about the outer leaf on the existing ceiling or the lack of a proper outer leaf. If I take of the drywall on the ceiling right now its just going to be insulation and just open attic space. (See attached pic) I'm aware getting drywall above the old joist is the best way to go but after looking up there, it seems like it would be a major pita. I need ideas on what to do up there and if just leaving the drywall on the ceiling the way it is right now is a horrible thing to do? I'm going to upload a separate sketch-up file to illustrate the issue any feedback it always greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ps if I can just get the final plan for the ceiling / roof issue I'm ready to build this studio full speed ahead

ok now here is info specific to the ceiling / roof issue below is a link to sketch-up file focusing on the issue http://www.mediafire.com/file/h9y3h3sqf ... of%202.rar

any feedback guys ?

My feedback is...what is your questions?

I need feedback if my approach to the roof is going to be ok outer Leaf not being in ideal spot etc

Your outer leaf is the roof.

so this is not a good idea at all then? would it be okish since its only the roof or would it ruin the whole isolation plan?

was hoping the roof was far enough away to not make the 3rd leaf effect come into play. Dam!!!

Nevermind the 3 leaf, they exist everywhere. What type of roof do you have...hip, gable?

Hip Why can I leave drywall on current ceiling like it is?

Well, you WILL have a three-leaf system, but if you put enough mass on each leaf then it will still work, especially give the size of the air gaps. Another issue: on the inner leaf, where the drywall on the ceiling meets the drywall on the wall, don't do the joints like that: Stagger them. In other words, first a vertical, then a horizontal, then another vertical, then another horizontal. Not two verticals followed by two horizontals. (not sure if I'm explaining that very well.... rather late here... ZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzz........) - Stuart -

how about just one layer of drywall on existing ceiling as in leave whats there and 2 layers on inner leaf? but I'm thinking about just doing it right and getting drywall above old joist and getting rid of 3rd leaf no matter how much of a pita it is... If this is going to be way better

So just putting another layer of drywall over our existing layer of 5/8ths Drywall on the ceiling right now is by far the easiest thing to do. With this approach I would not have to get drywall up above the original joist (which in my case would be a serious pita) so just add layer of drywall to existing ceiling (for total of 2 layers on old ceiling) and then we are going to go with 2 layers of 5/8ths of drywall on the inner leaf with green glue in-between all staggered seams thanks! do I have your guys blessing? (pic included)