Here are four unrelated questions:
1) After reviewing the thread by Rivernile, I still have one question -- when building the resonators as outlined in the design for my studio, do I place the 703 up close to the slats AND put r13 type insulation in the cavity, or just leave it? (There were also these hanging absorbers too, which I'm not sure I should use).
2) When examining other room treatments, it seems that I might benefit from the room "space coupler" design, but these are expensive, and I'm already getting over budget. My carpenter suggested he might be able to make them cheaper, but wanted to know if the wood material mattered (some are made from bamboo, for example). My sense is as long as the size, ration, etc., are the same, they would work well against the walls with window and sliding door with any type of wood.
3) I'm confused about how to deal with the wall between the mix and live room. Is it true that if I have clips, rc and double drywall on the live room leaf, I should NOT have clips, rc and double drywall on the mix room leaf? I should, instead, have two layers, of different size drywall (say 1/2 and 5/8) and NO clips/rc? Is that correct?
4) Finally, in trying to cut cost, I'm thinking of just drywalling, no clips or rc., in the mix room (excluding the wall adjacent to the live room). Is there an insulation method that functions as insulation but increases isolation? And if I had to choose between double drywall or single drywall and clips and hc, which would be better (it seems two layers on the external wall would be cheaper, but I want to see if there would be a big difference in isolation).
Thanks again -- getting closer to beginning the build as details are sorted out (it is amazing to me how complex and dynamic this is).
New Member Seeks Help Designing Attic Studio
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 16101.
"Is it true that if I have clips, rc and double drywall on the live room leaf, I should NOT have clips, rc and double drywall on the mix room leaf? "
Assuming you have a double framed wall assembly, you should not have clips or RC since the double framing introduces the decoupling that you are wanting to achieve.
What is a "space coupler"? I can suggest that you carpenter might well be able to replicate it, but how it serves the environment and adds no flanking will be in question.
If it is a flanking path, then it has to be removed.
No, I learned that one from you on my first and only post to another thread ;) It is an existing wall, only the framing around the new sliding door will be new. It is single frame. The plan is to have clips, HC, and two layers in the live room (1/2' though, to cut down on load to the celling, and cost). Single layer (5/8') in the mix room (this is a cost issue, and in choosing rooms to focus on isolating in this situation, seemed like the live room was a much better choice). But, it would not be much to add clips and rc to the mix room side of the wall between it and the live room, the wall with the sliding door, so the question is, can or should I use or not use clips and HC on both sides of this single framed wall?"Is it true that if I have clips, rc and double drywall on the live room leaf, I should NOT have clips, rc and double drywall on the mix room leaf? " Assuming you have a double framed wall assembly, you should not have clips or RC since the double framing introduces the decoupling that you are wanting to achieve.
Sorry for not providing a link...the ones from auralex are bamboo... http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PSSC22/ The question is, given that I will have glass on both sides of the live room, should I use these around the glass (window on one side, sliding door on the other). The plan is to place slats as Glenn outlined, and have absorption on the celling. But of course, these are expensive, so I thought one might be able to build them for far less. So, is this a good idea, and second, is it possible to build them cheaper?What is a "space coupler"? I can suggest that you carpenter might well be able to replicate it, but how it serves the environment and adds no flanking will be in question. If it is a flanking path, then it has to be removed.
I'm shopping for clips, best prices, etc. Came across these?
http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/isomax/index.aspx
I have to call to get a price, but they seem like a good choice.
Any suggestions for specific brand names or location of best price?
the space coupler is used within your room(s) not between them... you hang them down from the ceiling with an absorber behind it, or stand off from a wall with an absorber behind it. the Kinetics Noise clips are good.
So why are you asking this same question again if it has already been answered?No, I learned that one from you on my first and only post to another thread ;)"Is it true that if I have clips, rc and double drywall on the live room leaf, I should NOT have clips, rc and double drywall on the mix room leaf? " Assuming you have a double framed wall assembly, you should not have clips or RC since the double framing introduces the decoupling that you are wanting to achieve.
I'm actually trying to ask a different question, not the same one. But you are misunderstanding my question. I'm not asking nor did I ask about construction involving anything but a standard single stud wall frame. The question is: clips and HC on both sides (leafs) or only one? This is only a question for the wall btw the mix and live room.
Same answer...in the effort to decouple, you might use clips and track or RC on one side of the frame to decouple. You do not install either of these products on both sides of the frame.
It is always better to install a double framed (READ: fully decoupled) assembly between the control and live rooms for what should be obvious reasons.
OK, thanks, I'm slowly getting it! It is not intuitive!
Now, am I correct to install two layers of drywall on each leaf of this double framed wall assembly, but have their thickness differ: 5/8x2 on one side, and say 1/2x2 on the other?
It has nothing to do with intuition, it is always about education and information. I cannot say you are incorrect but I will say this. The reason that differing thicknesses might be used is for the effect called refraction. This is almost always a technique used by, if at all, a qualified acoustical technician with a lot of math running around in their head for a specific problem or concern. In the world of small rooms and basic isolation, you would use the same type of material on whatever frames you install it to since the mass is what you want. Mass law predicts a 6 dB gain in isolation from simply doubling of mass. So if you take the 5/8 sheetrock and double it, you win since the 5/8 will out perform the 1/2 inch rock If you double the 1/2 inch rock, you don't even have enough to equal the 5/8 doubled rock, so in that respect you lose. The refracted sound gains you nothing. The only one thing you are incorrect about, is this. In order for the refraction to actually work in an area that you can determine, you would actually place a thicker piece of mass against a thinner piece of mass, directly not on different sides of the assembly.OK, thanks, I'm slowly getting it! It is not intuitive! Now, am I correct to install two layers of drywall on each leaf of this double framed wall assembly, but have their thickness differ: 5/8x2 on one side, and say 1/2x2 on the other?
Thanks Brien. Intuition was not a good word choice; my experience so far is that sound isolation and treatment are far more involved and complex than I imagined when I first started on this project. Indeed, education and information are key.
I think, however, that I'll go with a staggered stud frame for the wall in question, to save money, with two layers of 5/8 on each side. So another question is, do I use green glue on both sides? There is a FAQ on their website which confused me, so I want to make sure.