Basic questions

Is there an ideal LWH ratio for a room (pre treatment)? I have a wall between my room and another business (so I can't really go in there and start adding drywall to their shop), can extra layers of drywall be added to their drywall, between the studs on my side, to add mass? Or is there a better method? Do superchunks have any design parameters, or can you just stack triangle pieces of insulation in the corner and cover it with fabric on frame? Do layers of drywall HAVE to glued together? Or, can they just be layered without glue (realizing that one method may be optimum and the other might just be OK)? Should sidewalls be 12° from perpendicular from the front wall or 6° each (for a total of 12°)? Why? Do the side walls (side slots frame in John's components sketchup) have to be attached to the wall, or can they be used to make the wall in an odd shaped room? (looking at them, I may have answered my previous 12° question)? Can they be put on hinges so that storage space can be incorperated behind them? Thanks, many more questions to follow in the future) Jim

if you search around for "room ratio" there are quite a few discussions on what is best - most times it comes down to what space you have, what you're design criteria are, etc. most times, a small space should do whatever it takes to preserve room volume over ratio choices and make decisions on angled walls versus rectangle along those lines plus treatment planning etc.

Is there an ideal LWH ratio for a room (pre treatment)?

Yep. There are several, actually. Sepmeyer, Louden, and several others. Do a search on the forum for "room ratio" and you'll find more info than you could ever have hoped for! But you don't need to go overboard in fine tuning your room ratio down to the last millimeter (or 1/32"): Stay away from the known bad ratios, and get close to one of the known good ratios, and you'll be fine.

an extra layers of drywall be added to their drywall, between the studs on my side, to add mass?

Yup! That's called "beefing up the wall" here. Just add layers of 5/8" (16 mm) cut to fit between the studs, cleated in place, and caulked around the edges to seal it.

Do superchunks have any design parameters, or can you just stack triangle pieces of insulation in the corner and cover it with fabric on frame?

Yup! The design parameter is: "The bigger, the better"! :) More seriously, try to make the front faces at least 24" across, and even more if you can. 36" is great.

Do layers of drywall HAVE to glued together?

On the contrary, they should NEVER be glued together! Bad idea.

Or, can they just be layered without glue (realizing that one method may be optimum and the other might just be OK)?

The "optimum" is no glue. The "OK" is no glue. Anything else is a bad idea. (Unless you are talking about Green Glue, of course, but that isn't glue anyway...)

Should sidewalls be 12° from perpendicular from the front wall or 6° each (for a total of 12°)? Why?

Yes. No. Maybe. At least. :) Sorry to be so obtuse, but it all depends on what you are trying to accomplish by splaying them. If you are after an RFZ, then 6° on each is minimum (12° total), and the actual angle will depend on other factors. If you are after eliminating flutter echo, then 6° each side (12° total) should be fine. If you are trying to "get rid of the modes", then that won't work at all.

Do the side walls (side slots frame in John's components sketchup) have to be attached to the wall,

They have to be sealed. In other words, the slots on the front must be on some kind of structure that is sealed airtight all the way around (floor, ceiling, back and sides). They also should be located in pressure zones, not velocity zones, so up against the room walls is a good place for them.

or can they be used to make the wall in an odd shaped room?

Yes they can. They are designed to be broadband devices, so you can pretty much angle them any way you want, as long as you leave reasonable depths in the air cavity and keep them sealed.

(looking at them, I may have answered my previous 12° question)?

Not sure I understand you: The angle of the slot walls is totally unrelated to the angle of the room walls. They are two entirely different things. The inner-leaf walls are part of your isolation, and need to be placed and angled accordingly for the basic design of the room. The slot walls are part of your treatment, and help deal with issues caused by the isolation and the basic design of the room.

Can they be put on hinges so that storage space can be incorperated behind them?

Yup, as long as they stay sealed. In other words, the total hermetic air-tight seal around the cavity must be in place in order for the slot walls to work. So if you can figure out how to do that and still have them hinged, then that would be fine. - Stuart -

Many thanks, Yes the name "green glue" got me off track. Great, I don't have to disturb the people next door with any drywalling I have to do. That is good to hear. I took for granted that the slot (slat?) wall was a sealed structure, glad to hear that they can be used as am thinking. I was thinking that because they are built with a 12° angle in them, that it was optimum to have that angle for the side walls (24° total), but if I can make them 6° each it frees up the option list in getting the design together. That is the reason I was asking about hinge mounting them as they may become doors for built in storage.