Drums Drums Drums

Started by jrweeks on 18 March 2011. 2 replies.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 15756.

I want to start out by saying that I have been wanting to post something for a long time now. I have been looking at everyone's wonderful posts and wow there is a lot of good information. I have been playing drums for 25 years and have gone through the usual. I make my neigbours crazy, I can't play for very long without that feeling of wondering when there would be a knock at the door. I bought a set of electronic drums but it's just not the same. Well after selling my motorcycle I have enough cash and the room to build a dedicated drum room. As well as being able to practice I also dabble in recording so I want to be able to do both. I have a 2 car heated garage 25' x 22'. The plan........... Floated floor. Staggered wall. Resilient channel. Roxul Safe and Sound. Stand alone room. Portable design build (I am building it in sections to take with me down the road however I am using resilent channel and double drywall to gain more STC's). Cable throughs (Not putting in dedicated electrical just extention cable and mic cables). Double doors (Solid core beefed up). Double laminated glass window. Compression fittings to secure sections like (http://www.acousticbooth-studiobox.com). Ventilation system Bass traps. 2 1/2" egg crate foam. Floating hardwood floors. Well that's it for now I have a lot of design features to follow. I will be starting this project in a bought two weeks and am intrested in your opinions, thanks.
File not preserved: my drum room.skp
Hi jrweeks, and Welcome! Interesting project! But a couple of comments:
Floated floor.
Are you sure you need that? That's a LOT of money you are talking about to do it right. Here is some interesting info you might want to look at, on how to do that correctly: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8173 http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/irc/doc/p ... /ir802.pdf
Staggered wall. Resilient channel.
You don't really need both. Either of those will decouple your wall to about the same extent. Once it is decoupled, then it is decoupled! Doing so again is just a waste of money, space and time. Either staggered studs or RC. You CAN do both if you want, but it really won't buy you much extra.
Roxul Safe and Sound.
That will work, but look around at your local store and see what else they have: you don't need exotic name-brand "acoustic" products: what you need is products of the right density and gas-flow characteristics, at the lowest cost. I promise you that the sound waves do not care how much you paid for the materials! All the see is the physical characteristics, and they totally ignore the price tag. So if you can find something similar for less money, then that might be a better option. Looking at your SKP file: So it's just a booth you are doing? Not the entire room? What is your design goal for isolation? (In terms of decibels). How do you plan to build that (materials, dimensions, air gap, etc).? - Stuart -
Are you sure you need that? That's a LOT of money you are talking about to do it right. Here is some interesting info you might want to look at, on how to do that correctly:
Thanks Soundman, I have some reading to do.
Are you sure you need that? That's a LOT of money you are talking about to do it right. Here is some interesting info you might want to look at, on how to do that correctly:
By float I mean't I plan on seperating the whole booth/room from the concrete. Nothing fancy or expensive I purchased some 2'x2' treadmill pads, cut them in 1'x1' squares glued 4 1'x1' pc. together and will use them evenly underneath every other foot.
You don't really need both. Either of those will decouple your wall to about the same extent. Once it is decoupled, then it is decoupled! Doing so again is just a waste of money, space and time. Either staggered studs or RC. You CAN do both if you want, but it really won't buy you much extra.
Thanks, I looked on this site and everyother one and now it makes sense why I didn't see an example of this wall design. I will revaluate and make a desicion which way I want to go.
That will work, but look around at your local store and see what else they have: you don't need exotic name-brand "acoustic" products: what you need is products of the right density and gas-flow characteristics, at the lowest cost. I promise you that the sound waves do not care how much you paid for the materials! All the see is the physical characteristics, and they totally ignore the price tag. So if you can find something similar for less money, then that might be a better option.
I have already bought 8 bags but the price wasn't bad $34 CND each.
Looking at your SKP file: So it's just a booth you are doing? Not the entire room?
Yes it's just a booth not a room (my bad).
What is your design goal for isolation? (In terms of decibels).
Between the booth and the garage I'm in, I would hope you would have to be within 10' of the house to hear anything. As far as decibels I plan on doing some tests with my decibel meter through out the build inside and out to see what I'm getting.
How do you plan to build that (materials, dimensions, air gap, etc).?
Walls 2"x6" staggered....... inside 2 sheets of 5/8" drywall with underlayment glued between(It's not in my budget right now to go with Green Glue or Quite Glue). outside 1 to 2 sheets of 7/16" OSB with underlayment inbetween. Floor 2"x6" Top 3/4" T&G OSB, underlayment, 7/16" OSB Bottom 7/16" OSB Ceiling 2"x6" resilent channel 2 sheets of 5/8" drywall with underlayment glued inbetween.