It's Time to Start My Basement Studio

Stuart, The db readings I mentioned are incorrect. This was not an spl meter but instead a dosimeter used for measuring workplace db according to OSHA standards. (i"m and idiot!) I borrowed it from work. I will get an spl meter and conduct the test you mentioned. But it is VERY quiet in this area when noting is on and there is very little noise from the outside but the db test will tell the truth. Bill

so the duct runs right down the middle as shown?

Yes. Straight down the middle. That is why I'm hoping after I collect the spl readings and with the understanding that there is limited noise directly overhead that I can build this without removing the drywall from the ceiling. I have read in some of the post that it may be possible to cut holes in the ceiling instead of removing. There are recessed lights in the ceiling now that when I start construction this mat help with the issue. Hopefully we can come up with a good design for this. I am ready to get started but I know it is best to do this now instead of making a few expensive mistakes. Regards, Bill

one very rough idea. it might be that the rooms can still use the inter-leaving of joists. if not, perhaps using isolation clips and 3x drywall and beefing up between joists with another 3x drywall will get you there.

I have read in some of the post that it may be possible to cut holes in the ceiling instead of removing.

Yes, you can cut holes if you want to, but they have to be pretty big holes. We aren't talking about drilling a half dozen 1/4" holes here! And if you are going to all the trouble of wrecking your ceiling anyway by chopping out lots of large holes all over it, then why not just take it off? But anyway, get the readings first, before you do anything else. - Stuart -

I hope to have the reading by the end of this weekend. I had another thought also in reading other post where others are in almost the same situation. We talk about demoing the ceiling and replacing mass to the bottom of the upper floor. If you cut the drywall between the joist with a saw then that now can become used as part of the mass placed on the bottom side of the upstairs flooring. I hate to waste anything! I will be attaching on my next post my proposed layout for the studio. Take a look and please give me your suggestions and comments. Bill

If you cut the drywall between the joist with a saw then that now can become used as part of the mass placed on the bottom side of the upstairs flooring. I hate to waste anything!

Exactly! If you work carefully, you can save the drywall that you take down and re-use it. Same thing if you already have insulation up there (fiberglass or mineral wool). It will be good to see what else is up there, and how that floor above you is built. - Stuart -

you want to see if you have nails/screws coming though which would prevent you from putting the drywall flush to the floor above. if so, plan on using some thin foam insulation (e.g. blue board) to cover them and then applying the layers of mass over that etc.

Fortunately I know exactly how the floor is built since I am the original owner. This house is only 5 years old and the flooring is as follows: 3/4" hardwood floor roof felt (vapor barrier) 3/4" OSB 22" engineered floor truss with 6" fiberglass insulation 1/2" drywall Also, since the exterior walls are: OSB 6" stud w/fiberglass insulation 1/2" drywall will I need to remove the 1/2" drywall so not to have a 3 leaf system? Glenn - Thanks for floorplan! It is EXACTLY the way I would like it. A question though, I can see how to integrate the windows in the tracking rooms but how to do that in the control room with the bass traps and slot resonators? Bill

"If you cut the drywall between the joist with a saw then that now can become used as part of the mass placed on the bottom side of the upstairs flooring. I hate to waste anything! " It isn't as easy as it reads. At four(4) foot intervals over a longer than four foot span the cut outs will flop since the span will be 4 foot ...so be prepared for that.

In the example provided you would extend the isolation bits so the angles match up and build your slats around it. This way you have the sealed cavity for the slats and the sealed isolation mass for the windows. I would probably shrink the CR a bit.

Another word of caution when cutting sheetrock from ceilings or walls....be prepared to hit electrical and or plumbing/vents. Use shorter blades on the sawzall and be prepared to hit electrical wires/plumbing/vents. Be safe...

If you caulk line the ceiling joists on the drywall and use a small circular saw or dremel tool saw to cut the the line to the thickness of the drywall you can avoid too much nicking of important things like Brien points out. Have a T support you can slide up to support the drywall as it is cut or work with a buddy. Nails and screws will hurt you blade so mark the joist on either side (an ice pick is handy for finding the edges and holding the chalk line...)

gullfo wrote:

If you caulk line the ceiling joists on the drywall and use a small circular saw or dremel tool saw to cut the the line to the thickness of the drywall you can avoid too much nicking of important things like Brien points out. Have a T support you can slide up to support the drywall as it is cut or work with a buddy. Nails and screws will hurt you blade so mark the joist on either side (an ice pick is handy for finding the edges and holding the chalk line...)

Well...that is too much like work:) Cut that crap out, let it fall, watch out for the wire...get-er-done :)

Brien - Unfortunately I'm on a budget and reusing the drywall is a good idea. I have more time than I do money and besides this isn't my first rodeo I've done a lot of remodeling before. Thanks for all of the advise guys I REALLY do appreciate it! :D I still need an answer about the outer walls though. Do I remove the inner drywall from the outer walls? Regards, Bill

I still need an answer about the outer walls though. Do I remove the inner drywall from the outer walls?

If you want good isolation, I would. And once again, you can beef up the outer leaf between the studs. But before you do anything, it would still be good to get those sound level tests done... :) - Stuart -

billcsec wrote:

Brien - Unfortunately I'm on a budget and reusing the drywall is a good idea. I have more time than I do money and besides this isn't my first rodeo I've done a lot of remodeling before. Thanks for all of the advise guys I REALLY do appreciate it! :D I still need an answer about the outer walls though. Do I remove the inner drywall from the outer walls? Regards, Bill

I feel you pain boss but I do not say these things because I read a book on it or saw a web page on it. I demo things on a day-2-day basis, and it will not work out like you think it will...it will break at ever joint, it will hit the floor and break again :) And the longer the run the worse the wear on your head :) So I would suggest a very, very used short saw-zall blade...something dulled from maybe cutting metal or concrete. A sharp one is going to get into your joists and cut thru stuff quicker than you can say "damn it I did not want to cut that".

Thanks for the info Brien and I will heed your advise. I've got caught up with my other duties at home so I am back to the studio. I plan on doing the SPL test this weekend but in the meantime I need to complete the design of the studio in the area I have available. Glenn provided a great layout but its time to get to the details of the design. I will be posting drawings for all to see and comment on and I value all of your responses. If anyone has a different layout suggestion because at this point I am open to all since I do not plan on starting construction until the design is complete. Bill

Afternoon Guys! I have a few more questions: You mentioned to remove the drywall from the bottom of the floor trusses, add drywall to the subfloor between the floor trusses and interleave a new ceiling joist between the existing floor trusses. I have added a layout to the drawing and according to the dimension in the control roon the span will be 17'! I know that someone knows how to fix this so I need a little help on this one. I am addings drawings. PLEASE comment! Bill

i was suggesting earlier you might want to size the CR a bit smaller.

"the span will be 17'!" Which particular span will be 17 feet?

Hopefully this drawing will help clear up a few things. I added the dimensions of the walls. The floor trusses of the house run in a east/west configuration. The height from the top of the plate to the bottom of the HVAC duct is 6". I have not begun construction because I want to make sure that I have the design complete so I can make changes now if needed. Like I said if someone has a better layout PLEASE share. My only requirements are that I have a Control Room, Live Room, ISO Room and a Drum Room. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. - Bill -

Hi guys I'm still here but I haven't had much time to spend back here on the forum. I haven't seen new post concerning my studio design so I'm going to continue on and keep putting design ideas up. I hope to have something soon and also to have to sound test done soon. Cheers! Bill

You might want to shrink the CR a bit and increase the live room as well. This may even out the spans enough. Suspending the ceiling with isolation clips and channel will remove the span issue from the new iso.ation walls but now the dependency is on the existing joists.

Thanks Glenn for the info. I will work on the layout and post another drawing. All this prep work I know will pay off in the long run but I can't wait to start on this! Bill