Basement recording studio in Columbus Ohio Build Diary

Stuart, Dude you are amazing! Thanks for taking the time to help me. I think the neoprene was just to prevent sound from traveling under my wall and also to reduce any travel through my concrete slab. But if sealing it would also do the trick then I will can do that also. Maybe neoprene and also chalk? I am just goin by what Glenn suggested since he has held my hand through this whole process. So should I just get some chalk and start sealing that area instead of lifting and neoprening? I do think the main purpose was to create a seal though.

If Glenn suggested it, then my guess is that it would be for sealing. Most people don't realize just how important an airtight seal is. Even a tiny crack under your wall, just a fraction of an inch wide and a couple of feet long, can compromise the isolation gained by the rest of the wall! So you should be extra careful to make sure that you do a perfect job of sealing under those walls. Seal from both sides, forcing the caulk into the gap under the sole plate from both edges. If you are going to take out the nails and use bolts, then you could even lift the wall slightly while the nails are out, to get better penetration underneath. Just make sure that the wall is well supported while you lift it! To complete the seal, you should also lay another bead of caulk under the edge of each layer of drywall. Lift the drywall a fraction of an inch before you nail / screw it in place (put some type of thin shim under it, then take out the shim when the nails are in place), then caulk that gap under the edge, where the shim was. Also, use backer rod and caulk in the gaps between sheets of drywall to create a good seal, and stagger the joints between layers, so that no joint on the first layer lines up with a joint on the second layer. By the way, it's "caulk" not "chalk"! The stuff that comes in a big tube that you put in a caulking gun. The type you use for sealing around the edge of your bathtub or kitchen counter. Use a type that remains very flexible and rubbery even when it is fully dry, and that never gets hard. (Even better is proper acoustic caulk, but ordinary flexible caulk will also work.) - Stuart -

Sorry for my mispellings... I did mean caulk. LOL I bought about 200$ worth of neoprene so I guess thats why I am a bit uneasy about wasting it. But I'm sure I can use it for the tops of the walls? I will go get some caulk very soon. So I think I need to focus on building my other two walls. I will be working on the wall in my vocal/drum room that has the window and soffit for the baffle box. I will post pictures through the process. The fun part will be electricity and installing the propper connection for mic imputs in the main room/ live room. I'm such a newb....I kill me!! LOL Please Stuart, any advice is welcome!

Hey Stuart, Glenn did message me and confirmed what you said. So I will just caulk very well under the walls. I could use some help or advice though. I have th frame a doorway where my cold air intake vent is. This will make my door about 8 inches shorter then normal.... I am ok with this but I'm not sure how to build the wall so that it is stable and will not move when the door opens. Any ideas or suggestions?

Hey All, I have an electrician coming in tomorrow afternoon and was wondering if anyone is versed in this area and would have any advice on outlet placement for the design above. Thanks!

Hey all, Glenn sent me a message with all of the electricity specs. Just wanted to let everyone know :)

I am ok with this but I'm not sure how to build the wall so that it is stable and will not move when the door opens. Any ideas or suggestions?

Not really sure what the issue might be, but if you just build the wall normally, as you would for any other size door, then it should be fine. Maybe you could so a quick 3D model in SketchUp and post some photos of that area, so we can see what the issue is. If you can't do a normal doorway for whatever reason, then maybe sway braces would help? - Stuart -

Ok, so after much thought and research. I have decided to go with xspaces suggestion of building a frame on top of my walls and doing the room within a room method. This will completely decouple the walls from the joists above. it will be a bit more work removing the walls and cutting them down to size. I want to eliminate any hard contact with the joists. No sound transmission is the best! I will still use Glenns design. Will this method eliminate the need for ISO clips in the walls and ceiling?

Will this method eliminate the need for ISO clips in the walls and ceiling?

Yup! :) If the inner leaf walls and ceiling are decoupled, not touching the outer, then that's all you need. No clips, RC or channel required. - Stuart -

Nice! Then Im going that route.

Wow has it been a very long time.... So, I'm back. I thought I was selling my house so I held off on building a studio. Well, we will be at our current house for a very long time so I will be finishing this build. I did purchase Rod's book and am reading through it. Glenn did an amazing job designing this studio so I will try my best to make it as close as possible to the real deal. The issue is I suck at construction so it will be a huge learning curve.

Welcome back, Esco! Great! Are you still going with the same design? If so, I just did something very similar for a place in California that might help you. But I can't share it on-line, as it was a design I did for a paying customer, and he hasn't OK'd sharing it in public. But if you are interested then PM me and I'll send you some images and other details. The layout and size are very similar to yours. - Stuart -

So I'm almost to the point of framing but have a question... I was wondering what would be the best ceiling option, room within a room (ceiling on walls) or ISO clips to the joists above? I want to pick the best solution for sound isolation.

I was wondering what would be the best ceiling option, room within a room (ceiling on walls) or ISO clips to the joists above? I want to pick the best solution for sound isolation.

Both options will work, but a fully decoupled ceiling sitting on top of your new walls can potentially give you much better isolation. - Stuart -

Stuart, I need you to hold my hand through this my friend.. So, my ceiling height is 7feet 1inch and I'm trying to figure out the best way to build the ceiling on the studio. I was thinking a room inside a room but that would knock off 4 inches of height from the ceiling and also 5/8 inch (drywall). So Im looking at loosing 5 inches which would make my ceiling 6foot 6 inches tall..... not tall enough if you ask me..... So I was looking at Auralex RC-8 RC-8 Resilient Channel, 24 - 2 3/8 inch x 8 ft x 1/2 inch pieces http://www.avalive.com/Auralex/RC-8/53210/productDetail.php?utm_source=googleBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_content=RC-8&gclid=CJrQjumgybwCFQsSMwodlnsARA For the walls and ceiling.. This would greatly improve my ceiling height. I just don't know how to calculate how much i need... Do I need any other clips? I found these ib-3 clips to stableize the walls to the joists above. Do I need these? If so how many? http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-products/soundproofing-clips/ib-3-clip/ And then I found these ib-4 clips to decouple my walls to the concrete slabe and to connect the walls together.... do I even need these? http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-products/soundproofing-clips/ib-4-sound-isolation-clip/ As you can tell I'm lost..... Not to mention, i have very low ceiling space where my duck is located and this is where the vocal booth is to be placed... And i cant remove the duct.... What should I do? And do you think 6 feet 6 inches is ok for height. Maybe im throwing out that option to quickly... If it is ok height wise then I'll just build it that way because it would be MUCH cheaper and would provide better isolation...

I was thinking a room inside a room but that would knock off 4 inches of height from the ceiling and also 5/8 inch (drywall). So Im looking at loosing 5 inches which would make my ceiling 6foot 6 inches tall.....

Not necessarily! :) If you build your ceiling "inside out", then you don't lose that height. "Inside out" means that the drywall goes on TOP of the new joists, instead of underneath, so you gain the entire depth of the joists as usable space inside the room. You then use that for your acoustic treatment, which you would need to do anyway, regardless of how you hang the ceiling, so the final height of the bottom surface of your acoustic treatment will still be at the exact same height as it would have been if you used clips and hat channel. With this "inside-out" method, the drywall can be just an inch or so under the existing floor joists above you, which is roughly where it would be if you used RC, and in fact is HIGHER than it would have been if you used clips+hat channel... :)

Do I need any other clips? I found these ib-3 clips to stableize the walls to the joists above. Do I need these? If so how many?

If you do not put ceiling joists on top of the walls, then yes you probably will need something like that, or sway braces. But if you build the walls right (good sheer strength)and put your new ceiling on top, then you don't need them.

And then I found these ib-4 clips to decouple my walls to the concrete slabe and to connect the walls together.... do I even need these?

Nope. Forget those. If you do a search on the forum for "inside out ceiling", you'll find numerous references, so you can see how it is done. - Stuart -

You Rock Stuart :shot:

I started framing the vocal booth the other night. I'm going with the room inside a room design and building the ceiling on top of the framing. We had to drop the ceiling down lower under the furnace air return vent to get the design to work. I purchased a solid wood door that is easly cut down and plan to frame the ceiling and door wall this coming friday. I will be installing 2 layers of 5/8 drywall and will also be installing the window and air in and out soffits. A few questions. 1.) Do I need to use Green Glue between the drywall? 2.) Do I need to worry about insulation since its a room inside a room build? 3.) Since I'm using screws to secure the structure should I still mdf the corners of the structure to help with ceiling load? 4.) Anything else I should consider at this point in building?

That framing is not touching the existing joists, is it? :shock: From the photos it looks like it might be... - Stuart -

That's just because of the angle, I promise it is for sure not touching the existing joists.

Whew! You had me worried for a second... :) :thu: - Stuart -

We did more framing the other night and finished the ceiling and framed in the door wall. Here's some pics: Is there anything I can do to beef up the structure? It does move quite a bit which I think will be resolved once we drywall. This thursday we plan to stud the door wall and frame the door in. I got a solid wood door. Very heavy! I have an electrician coming next wednesday to help me with wiring. Any advice on soundproofing electrical boxes? And where is Glenn? Haven't seen him in a while!!

Is there anything I can do to beef up the structure? It does move quite a bit

Are you doing one layer or two? I'd suggest using plywood or OSB as your first layer, then drywall as the second: That will really firm things up well. Or if you are doing just one layer, then make it all plywood.

This thursday we plan to stud the door wall and frame the door in. I got a solid wood door. Very heavy!

Great! The heavier the better. Don't forget you need heavy-duty hinges and long screws, to hold all that weight. And you could also beef up your rough framing with an extra 2x4 where the hinges are, for the same reason: you don't want your framing bending as the door opens and puts more weight on it...

Any advice on soundproofing electrical boxes?

Are you doing surface-mount electrical, inside the booth? You can't have any penetrations of the drywall for electrical boxes... - Stuart -

Stuart, Wow, sorry... for some reason I didn't see that you replied. My bad!

Are you doing one layer or two? I'd suggest using plywood or OSB as your first layer, then drywall as the second: That will really firm things up well. Or if you are doing just one layer, then make it all plywood.

I was planning to do 2 layers of dry wall, is OSB expensive? I am trying to go the cheepest route :). And are you taling inside layers or outside layers. The inside of the booth is 2 layers and the outside is 1 layer.

Great! The heavier the better. Don't forget you need heavy-duty hinges and long screws, to hold all that weight. And you could also beef up your rough framing with an extra 2x4 where the hinges are, for the same reason: you don't want your framing bending as the door opens and puts more weight on it...

Great Idea! I was thinking about triple studding the corners of the vocal booth to add more structure strength.

Are you doing surface-mount electrical, inside the booth? You can't have any penetrations of the drywall for electrical boxes...

I was thinking putty pads similar to http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Fire-Rated-Putty-Pads/dp/B002W81N36. Would that not work?

Stuart, Wow, sorry... for some reason I didn't see that you replied. My bad! Quote: Are you doing one layer or two? I'd suggest using plywood or OSB as your first layer, then drywall as the second: That will really firm things up well. Or if you are doing just one layer, then make it all plywood. I was planning to do 2 layers of dry wall, is OSB expensive? I am trying to go the cheepest route . And are you taling inside layers or outside layers. The inside of the booth is 2 layers and the outside is 1 layer. Quote: Great! The heavier the better. Don't forget you need heavy-duty hinges and long screws, to hold all that weight. And you could also beef up your rough framing with an extra 2x4 where the hinges are, for the same reason: you don't want your framing bending as the door opens and puts more weight on it... Great Idea! I was thinking about triple studding the corners of the vocal booth to add more structure strength. Quote: Are you doing surface-mount electrical, inside the booth? You can't have any penetrations of the drywall for electrical boxes... I was thinking putty pads similar to http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Fire-Rated- ... B002W81N36. Would that not work?