Need solution for ceiling. Please HELP

I'm constructing my studio in a finished garage. The walls will be dual wall staggered stud 16" odc. My problem is I have a 13 5/8" gap between the top of the wall and the ceiling. I need suggestions on how to proceed. Do I construct joist on the wall frame and add a ceiling? If so how do I do this? Do I build up the wall with additional top plates all the way to the ceiling? I'm stuck here and need good suggestions so I can get back to work. Here are some pics. Thanks to all in advance for your help.

Hi, Need you to explain this to me: "dual wall staggered stud 16"" A dual wall would be two walls right? So a staggered stud wall would be essentially one top plate/one bottom plate with staggered studs connected on the same previously mentioned plates, and with 2X6 plates, you would use 2X4 studs. Once we get that cleared up, if only for my edification, we can get the ceiling built...shouldn't be to big an issue.

Hi Brien, I will have two walls. Picture the walls facing one another but the studs will not align with each other so therefore the studs of the two opposing walls will be offset, staggered, from one another. Page 61 in Rods book Home Recording Studio: Build it Like the Pros illustrates this very well if my explanation is not clear. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ken

Ken - if we can merge your two topics into one it will be easier to have everyone work on a solution...

Thanks Jet, the clarification was to understand the mixed language "dual staggered stud". Like I said, it is either dual (two) or staggered. You are talking about a double framed assembly wall with offset studs, if it ever comes up in conversation :) Here is what you have to take into consideration, Since you are using 2X6 anyway, you should modify the interior room side layout to a 24 inch(609mm) center. It is always better to take the entire room into the design process...to develop a proper mass/spring/mass assembly. This would have begged the question of should the ceiling be modified towards that end, but we move forward. You are losing a lot of head room with this procedure you are using. Your exterior perimeter wall frame should go directly to the ceiling, this assumes that you are not in a basement and not under an unsupported truss span. Your interior wall will have to be reduced in height to allow for the installation of this reduced height ceiling. BTW, you did not include even the first measurement of this room, only help for an issue that you most likely shouldn't be doing any way.

Thanks Brien, The room is 14 x 16 x 8' high. I thank you very much for your idea and the diagram you posted.

"Do I construct joist on the wall frame and add a ceiling? If so how do I do this?" That was your question right? I think you are kinda running blind here...putting the cart before the horse so to speak. You have a vague idea of what you want and how to do it, but you seem to be asking questions that are far in advance of where you should be asking. Your room is a garage as your other thread reads. You have a ceiling, most likely little to no insulation and a typical gable or hip roof. You are attempting to develop a room in a room but you are side stepping entirely too many of the steps. You mention:"...I will effectively have a 2 leaf system with respect to the ceiling. " like this is not what you are going for when a decoupled two leaf assembly is what you are aiming for. The proverbial "room in a room". :) Without more floor plans and further clarification of the dimensions, I think installing a double framed wall assembly isn't going to be your best money spent since you run the real and certain risk of actually building a three leaf assembly, the flanking paths are going to knock the transmission loss down and the existing ceiling becomes the weak link. Maybe I should get involved in your other thread and see if I can be of any assistance to Glenn in his work with your build because this is becoming convoluted :)

let's instead pick one thread to work on so it's one conversation... jetspeed - please post the floor plan details and photos of the space. this way we can see what we're dealing with...

Hey Guys, Here is the floor plan and pictures of the space. Let me know if you need more info or details. Forgive my limited experience with sketchup. Cheers, Ken

My plan as of now is to take the exterior walls of the double frame assembly all the way to the existing dry walled ceiling. The interior walls of the double frame assembly will support new ceiling joist to which I will attach 2 layers of 5/8" drywall with GG between and insulation on top. How does this sound to you guys? Am I on the right track here? You guys are a big help and I appreciate your input. Cheers Ken

on the walls and ceiling which exist and will pair up with the new room, remove the drywall and (on the walls) beef up the exterior or house walls with the drywall you remove. on the ceiling, put in 2x layer on the upper part of the joists and then plan on using isolation clips underneath for the 2x drywall + GG inner isolation ceiling. using pink insulation in the ceiling. on the walls - build you isolation frames up to the ceiling joists but decouple using neoprene strips (top and bottom) and decoupled anchors (rubber washers and tubes to reduce contact). the existing wall and the new wall get pink insulation. the inside of your room, 2x drywall + GG. stagger the drywall layers between ceiling and wall.

An alternative: If you can put some time into making certain your doors/windows and that garage door are sealed up well enough you can build one framed wall with rock on the inside of it. As it stands...you can do what Glenn suggests but that garage door is going to defeat your work. You would need to get about 12 inches of space between the existing coupled wall(your garage wall) and the frame of the new wall. Again...any windows, doors or paths that lead out of the structure are going to be your weak points and cannot be over emphasized as to the importance. The ceiling...that is a different thing all together. This is what I would suggest or let me say this, this is the way I would approach it. I would identify the point on the ceiling that is directly outside of the new framing, establish my layout from the floor up to that area on the ceiling and cut only that much of the ceiling out, My new framing would not even touch the existing structure. Joists would have to be aligned so as not to interfere with the existing overhead trusses, most likely run parallel with the existing joists. My new framing would have OSB installed to the face to add rigidity, joists would be installed on top of that. You will have essentially a room in a room, less the cost, plus the isolation. There are many details that I have not mentioned, fire-stop being one, and electrical, hvac being the others...

Man, you guys are good. Lot's to look over and plan. Thanks for your help. Cheers

Here's what I was talking about Glenn.

that works.