While quoting out my project, I received a quote for this as an alternative to putty pad/pack.
Any thoughts:
http://www.idealindustries.com/media/pd ... l_msds.pdf
It is DRAMATICALLY cheaper, making me believe it probably wouldn't work . . .
Alternative to Putty Packs?
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 15377.
looks like clay and doesn't seem to have the fire stop properties... i wonder what the putty pad MSDS looks like?
Here is the 3M putty pad MSDS link (from the grainger.com site)
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Mol ... id=search#
*EDIT - couldn't link direct, but if you click the msds link tab you can see it.
I was told 2nd/3rd hand, that the gray stuff listed in my first post would "work" for that, but . . . again, pretty skeptical.
Seeing how my budget is over at the moment (spreadsheet only, having purchased anything yet), I am looking for places to trim though.
Would the stud with drywall behind method be "just as good" as the putty pack method? I saw it here on the forum, but can't seem to find it again now. Basically a little box is build with a piece of 2x4 and drywall in the rear side to compensate for the hole in the wall for the recepticle.
More on electrical box isolation here:
http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/eng/ibp/irc/c ... s-n27.html
yes, one option for the electrical boxes (and light boxes) is to build frames around them and use drywall & caulk to finish them before putting on the wall drywall. another option is surface mounting things to eliminate the penetrations. and another is to build soffits to handle the wiring (on the floor-wall is a common place for a cable/wiring trough. electric can be run through conduits in the trough and outlets etc attached the trough).
many times, by the time you figure out where the treatments are going and the lighting, switched, wiring etc, you can mostly use surface wiring or run the conduits through the treatments walls etc.