What is it that makes drywall less of a reflector than wood? I went ahead and finished the drywall and put glossy acrylic finish on it, since the drywall needed to be finished anyway... The room is more live after finishing the sheetrock, but the RT60 is about 1.5 sec at 100Hz, 2.5 sec at 300Hz, then rolling off to about .7 sec at 10kHz. I was expecting and still need more Hf extention, maybe a little less low mid. Is the glossy painted drywall rolling off the high end? Would the Hf RT60 be significantly higher if the drywall were covered in 3/4" plywood? I'm trying to understand this before I start building out wooden angles in the room- or is it the angularity that will extend the HF RT60? I'd like to get around 1.5 or even better 2 sec at 10khz so that when I start tuning the low end I can afford to lose a little Hf in the process. I'm really fishing for some understanding here so I can better manipulate the variable that is dominating my Hf reverb time.Dean - unfortunately drywall is not a very good reflector - I'd line the room in angled timber - by angled I mean break the wall into sections with angular shapes on the walls and ceiling and in the corners - have no absorption in the room at all just shiny wood surfaces - add some tile/stone surfaces if you have it. That will extend the reverbtime in the highs as you suggested.
Help modifying my drum room's sound- pictures and sound clip
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 14783.
this may be back to adding stone, dense concrete, or metal to get the highest frequencies supported and still do the LF absorption. using a composite panel absorber would seem to address the LF absorption and HF support. Something like the RPG Modex Plate could be useful here. http://www.rpginc.com/products/modexplate/index.htm
Thanks for this. It was difficult to design a metal membrane absorber to target my 300Hz bump. Instead I tacked together some wooden membrane panels, tuned to about 300Hz, and got the results below. Still no lift in the HF - I'm thinking about adding some scattered 12 degree angled panels of slate tile to try to raise the hf as well as remove any flutter echo coloration. maybe a couple more wooden membrane panels as well, to further flatten the 300Hz area.this may be back to adding stone, dense concrete, or metal to get the highest frequencies supported and still do the LF absorption. using a composite panel absorber would seem to address the LF absorption and HF support. Something like the RPG Modex Plate could be useful here. http://www.rpginc.com/products/modexplate/index.htm