Greetings.
Due to paucity of both funds and professional designers in this region, my friend has given me a free hand in designing his studio on the basis of the fact that he has enjoyed working in my studio, which I built ten years ago.
I put up these queries on another forum and a professional studio designer kindly came forward to assist me personally. I have accepted his generous offer, but still feel inclined to hand over the data to him after I make my best effort to come up with a plan by myself. Also the dimensions I have at this stage are probably a few inches different from the actual space, which I will have a chance to measure in a couple of days.
I am being told that I am setting myself up for disaster because the angled walls make it very difficult to predict modal problems. I am wondering if this is strictly the case as there is a fair amount of bass trapping going on, and certain fundamentals have been adhered to in my current design.
I would like any useful inputs to the design, as it stands. The site is in the top floor of a two storey apartment. The existing construction is all brick - cement - concrete. I will get a structural engineer's approval before floating the floor.
Please take a look at the attached pics. The front wall is made of cement bonded particle board... the heaviest board I could find... as recommended for the in-wall application. The other inner walls are 2-3 layers of staggered drywall. The current issue which has me stumped is the triple leaf effect happening between the control room and the iso booth.
control room drywalls -> brick wall -> iso booth drywalls (not shown)
Any suggestions on how I can get around this?
Thanks in advance,
Jai Shankar.
Feedback on CR Plan
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 14425.
As recommended by whom? You gain nothing by making this wall different from the rest - and that is a fact.......... first you determine what you need for isolation - and then make all your assemblies the same to achieve it - and I would recommend that you use 2 layers of 16 mm drywall rather than the 2 of 12mm - the added boost in low frequency isolation is well worth the small additional investment in money........ it's the best bang for the buck........Please take a look at the attached pics. The front wall is made of cement bonded particle board... the heaviest board I could find... as recommended for the in-wall application.
It's not that difficult - you have one of 2 choices here - you can decouple from the existing structure and make a 3rd leaf - or you can couple to the existing (meaning render and finish the existing) and have a double leaf......... IN this case If I were designing this room I would opt to decouple - the lesser of 2 evils if you will......... So that creates a third leaf - oh well - so be it - don't worry about things you cannot change........ One of my favorite sayings is that we have to live with the things we must live with............ hence there is no sense to fretting about them............ As far as the room design itself goes - forget calculating the modes - the space is what it is - - rectangles (although they maximize room volume - which is a good thing) are boring........... so why not get the best of both worlds? Maximize the room volume - and then build out the shape of the room you want and make use of that to handle your acoustic needs? BTW - A the ceiling level I see a 1" space from the underside of existing to the drywall -without even thinking about how you would do this - the doing of this will give you a huge weak spot in your isolation you would be much better off with 8" (which is roughly 6dB more isolation than 4") Rod control room drywalls -> brick wall -> iso booth drywalls (not shown) Any suggestions on how I can get around this? Thanks in advance, Jai Shankar. [/quote]The other inner walls are 2-3 layers of staggered drywall. The current issue which has me stumped is the triple leaf effect happening between the control room and the iso booth.
thanks rod.
it was to make the wall as rigid as possible so as to not resonate due to the in-wall speakers... not for additional isolation.As recommended by whom? You gain nothing by making this wall different from the rest - and that is a fact.......... first you determine what you need for isolation - and then make all your assemblies the same to achieve itThe front wall is made of cement bonded particle board... the heaviest board I could find... as recommended for the in-wall application.
unfortunately, 16mm drywall is "special order item" here in chennai. 3x 12mm is way cheaper than 2x 16mm. I will go for 3x if budget permits. also rod, i did not understand any of the following:I would recommend that you use 2 layers of 16 mm drywall rather than the 2 of 12mm
anybody care to demystify?BTW - A the ceiling level I see a 1" space from the underside of existing to the drywall -without even thinking about how you would do this - the doing of this will give you a huge weak spot in your isolation you would be much better off with 8" (which is roughly 6dB more isolation than 4")
As recommended by whom? You gain nothing by making this wall different from the rest - and that is a fact.......... first you determine what you need for isolation - and then make all your assemblies the same to achieve it [/quote]it was to make the wall as rigid as possible so as to not resonate due to the in-wall speakers... not for additional isolation.The front wall is made of cement bonded particle board... the heaviest board I could find... as recommended for the in-wall application.
You would be better suited to use a stiffer frame - that's what will give you the biggest bank for the buck......
unfortunately, 16mm drywall is "special order item" here in chennai. 3x 12mm is way cheaper than 2x 16mm. I will go for 3x if budget permits.[/quote] You will get virtually no low frequency isolation with just 2 layers of 12mm - that won't even stop frequencies in the range of the human voice very well..... add the third if you really want to achieve anything - 3 layers of 12 mm is only a 12 1/2% increase in mass over the 2 layers of 16mm....... but only 2 layers is only 75% of getting you there......I would recommend that you use 2 layers of 16 mm drywall rather than the 2 of 12mm
[/quote] Sorry - first off my eyes must have played tricks on me - it's 2" not 1 - but it is atill a very small space - and a small space between to pieces of mass is not good for isolation - also you can increase bass isolation but installing fluffy insulation in all of the air spaces - but do not over stuff.........anybody care to demystify?BTW - A the ceiling level I see a 1" space from the underside of existing to the drywall -without even thinking about how you would do this - the doing of this will give you a huge weak spot in your isolation you would be much better off with 8" (which is roughly 6dB more isolation than 4")