Chris Garage Studio - Design Phase

Started by blaumph2cool on 3 March 2010. 32 replies. In the Library under Walls, floors and ceilings.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 14150.

blaumph2cool15 April 2010#26

Yeah, I wanted to ask the question on this thread so I have everything in one place for reference.

blaumph2cool21 April 2010#27

Well, it's gonna cost me a little more than double for the 2x6 frame ($190 vs $80 for the lumber), but I am gonna do it any way. (Does anyone else have a voice inside that tries to convince you you're insane for trying a build?)

Soundman202021 April 2010#28

(Does anyone else have a voice inside that tries to convince you you're insane for trying a build?)

:) :) :) :!: To be honest, I'd be worried about the guy who DOESN'T hear that voice! That would be guy who is REALLY insane.... :shock: - Stuart -

John Sayers21 April 2010#29

blaumph2cool wrote:
Well, it's gonna cost me a little more than double for the 2x6 frame ($190 vs $80 for the lumber), but I am gonna do it any way. (Does anyone else have a voice inside that tries to convince you you're insane for trying a build?)

I wouldn't bother! you really can get caught up in the "wow I've got to do this right - even if it sends me broke!" or you can take some info from here and some from there and compromise to your own personal situation. Nothing wrong with that - studio construction is NOT a pissing contest.

blaumph2cool21 May 2010#30

I am going with the 2x4 wall frame with 2x6 ceiling joists...trusting in your expertise John. Thanks. Getting ready to submit my application and plans for a build permit. Here is the plans to send with the application:

Image not preserved: Elec_plan_sm.jpg

Thanks, -Chris

blaumph2cool24 May 2010#31

Is the a minimum effective width and number for using hangers? Currently in my corners Ican only manage to fit 2 hangers (6 in. and 9 in. wide) and I am wondering if I should just try to do superchunks.

Image not preserved: Basstrap.jpg

Thanks, -Chris

John Sayers24 May 2010#32

Chris - another option is this - you build an angled rear wall floor to ceiling so it's 1ft out at the top. You don't lose floor space but have plenty of absorption.

Image not preserved: rear_wall.gif

blaumph2cool26 May 2010#33

Thanks John. I did have a couple of outlets on that back wall so I think i'll have to move them to the side wall. I am thinking making a hole or a box through the angled back wall (and insulation) to access the outlets would be unsatisfactory?

Image not preserved: Angled Wall.jpg

EDIT: please note the outlets are not to scale and they are facing up. (they were originally for my electrical layout plan.) Thanks, -Chris