Greetings, Studiophiles!
As this is my first post, let me start by saying (and echoing the hordes that have come before me) THANK YOU all for such an awesome site!! I’ve been lurking here for a couple months and I feel as though I’ve learned more about studio design and soundproofing here than I ever thought possible. What a resource!!
So now, on to the nitty-gritty:
After a very long time looking for an appropriate site to build a studio I’ve come to the conclusion that the only way I might pull this off without building in a rented commercial spot is to build a stand-alone building in my folks’ back yard. Buying a home here is simply out of reach for me as the median home price in my town is $1,065,000, yes you read that right- the median price is over a million dollars! And what’s worse is that I make less than ½ of the median income for my town (which is $155k + - must be nice!) in my day job. And a recording studio in a rented upstairs 2 bedroom apartment ain’t gonna cut it, especially since I’m primarily a drummer and share the apartment with my wife and daughter!
My folks, on the other hand, live about 6 miles from me (or vice-versa, I suppose, as I’m the one that moved away), their house is paid off so they won’t be going anywhere any time soon, and their plot is about 1/3 of an acre, with a modest 1,500 sq. ft. house on it. Their city will allow a second “dwelling” to be built on their property, if it’s what’s commonly referred to as a “Granny Unit”, in other words a small un-attached, self contained apartment. There are a lot of rules and regulations concerning these granny units, but the ones that are the biggest concern to me are size (a MAXIMUM of 600 sq. feet) and they must be fully plumbed (complete bathroom facilities, including shower/bath and a kitchen). When you take those factors in it doesn’t leave much room for an actual studio, but I think I’ve got a workable plan… Although I’ll let those with a lot more experience in these matters be the judge of that!
Due to the size limitations I would really like to forego the whole room-within-a-room scenario, so my first question is this: If I were to build the exterior walls like so: 5/8” stucco, double layer of OSB sheathing, 2”x6” studs, R19 (?) in the stud cavities, ¾” MDF, 5/8” gypsum, green glue, and another layer of 5/8” gypsum (from outside to inside) could I expect some pretty decent isolation? For the ceiling I’m thinking iso clips and channel with 5/8” sheetrock, GG, 5/8” sheetrock. Naturally the usual building principals will apply – staggered seams, backer rod, acoustical caulk, well sealed doors, etc. The close proximity of neighbors (about 40’-50’ in every direction give or take) gives me some concern. Oh, one item I forgot to mention is that this would be on a 4”-5” concrete slab… There would only be one exterior door and the only “window” would be of the glass-block variety in the bathroom.
The control room walls we also be similarly constructed, minus the stucco and substituting two layers of 5/8 gypsum for the OSB on the outside. To keep costs at bay, there would be no “studio glass”, but I’d likely wire in some mini spy-cams to keep visual contact between the LR and CR. Which brings me to my next question: Judging by the dimensions on my drawing, does this appear to be a workable control room, capable of quality acoustics? While I recognize the “Quality” is in the ear of the beholder, I’m specifically concerned with the dimensions as the entire “mathematical” approach to acoustics leaves me completely lost.
As far as the uses of the studio, my primary focus is having a place to teach drum lessons (so room for 2 drum kits in the Live Room) and record my own tunes, but I would like to open it up to record/produce local bands that I think are promising. So basically this wouldn’t be an around-the-clock-“I need to be able to track 118dB death metal blast-beats at 4am” work spot, but a comfortable teaching studio that can double as a good-to-great demo/indie recording studio without pissing off the neighbors or my parents or having good ol’ John Law showing up to put the kibosh on a session.. As a drummer I DO play loud, I’m guessing around 100-110dB when I’m really cookin’, but I also have a day job so it’s not like I’m at it all night long.
I’ve only had Sketchup for 3 days now, so I apologize in advance for the lack of detail in my drawing. It’s not exactly to scale but I tried to get it as close as my feeble capabilities would allow. And keep in mind, that this building has to have the “bones” of a house and be converted back into a living space without too much destruction, should my parents finally ever decide to retire and sell the ol’ homestead to move off to a “Raisin Ranch” (aka: retirement community) :wink:
One thing that cannot change is the location of the bathroom/kitchen, due to the sewer tie-in with the existing house. The rest of it can be whatever works best.
I look forward to any and all constructive criticism! Thanks again guys & gals!
Doing research/planning, would love some feedback!
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 14086.
Actually, that already IS almost "room-in-a-room"! All you'd need to do to truly make it so is to use staggered 2x4 studs on a 2x6 base (instead of 2x6), and you are there! In any event, how much isolation do you need? Without knowing that, it's hard to say if what you propose will work or not.I would really like to forego the whole room-within-a-room scenario, so my first question is this: If I were to build the exterior walls like so: 5/8” stucco, double layer of OSB sheathing, 2”x6” studs, R19 (?) in the stud cavities, ¾” MDF, 5/8” gypsum, green glue, and another layer of 5/8” gypsum (from outside to inside)
That's actually not very loud for a drummer. I'll bet that if you measure with a sound level meter, you'll find that you are much closer to the "118dB death metal blast-beat" than you think you are! :) I'd guess around 115 dB,. most likely. That's where I commonly measure drummers. I'm wondering if you couldn't make better use of that space by rotating your control room 90° to the right? It just looks like you might be able to fit thins in better, and avoid that "L" shape. Also, your rear doors in your CR are exactly where your bass trapping should be, for the best possible effect. If you were to rotate the CR, you'd be able to square off the rear wall, put one door in the middle of that wall (where it belongs) or even have just one single door to the CR on the side facing the LR. One question: The area you have marked as "storage": Can that change? Do you need that? You might be able to get a bigger LR and/or CR by using some of that. Regarding windows: Maybe you could consider at least putting a window in the kitchen area? That will be outside your isolated area, so I don't think there would be any penalty for doing that, and the whole place will be depressingly dark inside, with no natural light at all (except when you take a shower...). - Stuart -As a drummer I DO play loud, I’m guessing around 100-110dB when I’m really cookin’,
Why stucco? Are you thinking traditional three coat or the more modern one coat? If you are thinking of the traditional version...why not brick and reduce the potential for cracking, leaking and moisture problems?
If you are thinking modern one coat...why?
I was under the impression that that using a common sill-plate negated the positive effects of staggered studs?All you'd need to do to truly make it so is to use staggered 2x4 studs on a 2x6 base (instead of 2x6), and you are there!
If you couldn't hear a 4-5 piece rock band playing 10' past the building I'd feel it was a successful build.In any event, how much isolation do you need?
I just picked up a sound meter a couple days ago - I'll have to check it out at my next session. I was really just guessing... :oops:That's actually not very loud for a drummer. I'll bet that if you measure with a sound level meter, you'll find that you are much closer to the "118dB death metal blast-beat" than you think you are! :) I'd guess around 115 dB,. most likely. That's where I commonly measure drummers.
Probably. This is exactly why I posted, to make me say, "Why didn't I think of that?" :!:I'm wondering if you couldn't make better use of that space by rotating your control room 90° to the right? It just looks like you might be able to fit thins in better, and avoid that "L" shape.
When I originally wrote that it said HVAC/storage. For some reason the HVAC part doesn't show in sketchup now? I've only put few hours into trying to learn the program so far, so it's probably something dumb... But yes, I figure it as a storage/mechanical room (hot water heater/HVAC/elec sub-panel)One question: The area you have marked as "storage": Can that change? Do you need that?
Good idea.Regarding windows: Maybe you could consider at least putting a window in the kitchen area? That will be outside your isolated area, so I don't think there would be any penalty for doing that, and the whole place will be depressingly dark inside, with no natural light at all (except when you take a shower...).
One of the (many) rules regarding the granny units is that they be built using the "same finish materials" and in the "same style" as the existing house. The existing house is stucco, so unless we were to change the entire exterior of the main house, it has to be stucco on the new dwelling. Also the same hip-roof line and same shingles as the original house. As the house is about 65 years old if I recall, I would guess it's "traditional" stucco. I know pretty much nothing about stucco in particular, but the stuff on the house is pretty tough (and thick!), especially compared to some newer buildings I've worked on in the last 15 years...Why stucco? Are you thinking traditional three coat or the more modern one coat? If you are thinking of the traditional version...why not brick and reduce the potential for cracking, leaking and moisture problems? If you are thinking modern one coat...why?
It doesn't negate it: it just reduces the isolation, so you won't get as much as you could have had with two separate frames, but it is still WAAAY better than not decoupling at all.I was under the impression that that using a common sill-plate negated the positive effects of staggered studs?
Yes, but you need to put that in real numbers! How loud is your rock band, playing in your room, right now (in terms of decibels, C weighting, slow response)? How loud is that outside right now (in dB)? How much ambient noise is there? How quite is "can't hear it 10' past the building" in YOUR case (in dB)? You need real numbers if you hope to build the right kind of isolation. Guessing won't get you there. With your real numbers in hand, you can figure out how much extra isolation you need (in terms of real numbers), then look around for different methods of achieving that level (based on what you already have), and chose the method that makes the best sense for you, money-wise. - Stuart -If you couldn't hear a 4-5 piece rock band playing 10' past the building I'd feel it was a successful build.