1. What i was looking for was,given the dimentions that i have i was thinking of doing 4 new walls for the 13-3'' x 18-8'' room. But i am not shure about weather or not to use R channels on the cieling or with a hihgt of 8'-3'',do a new cieling. I was planning on stuffing the cieling thrust with Rockwool.But what to do after that? just add gypboard or do you guys think the Riz Channel would giv me adequet iso?
Depends on what you need! That's one of the items covered in the stickies. How loud are you, and how quite do you need to be? Those are measurements that you need to take with a sound level meter. Figure out how loud you will be normally in that room, and what level is acceptable outside the room. The difference between those two is how much isolation you need. You can't guess: you have to measure.
Based on that, you can determine what construction you need. With 8'-3'' ceiling height, you probably have enough space to do a full MSM structure, especially if you need good isolation. On the other hand, if you only need mild isolation, then RC might work for you.
3.I need a mic/line pannel in the live room,how to connect the PVC pipes at the two independent wall. once again,stll searching threads for a clearer view.
THere are threads on here about how to do that. Basically you run conduit between the two rooms, cut the conduit at some in order to decouple, and the treat the cut acoustically by wrapping it with something to seal the edges closed again, while retaining decoupling. You also seal the conduit where it pass through the wall with acoustic caulk, and finally you need to plug the ends of the conduit and seal them too.
I understand it from the perspective of if i was raising the floor.Is that a good option for the cieling hight i have(8'-8'')?
??? Before you said it was 8'3", now you say it is 8'8"!!!! Which is it? In any event, raising your floor is probably not a good idea: What is it made of now? From the photos, it looks like concrete? If so, leave it like that. A hard floor is good acoustically, and you can then have a soft ceiling, which is also good, acoustically. If the concrete is not in good condition, then you could cover it with laminate flooring, or some such.
I know i am going to build independent walls in the live room area and then build some obsorbers in the room.So what i was looking for answers to was possible layout ideas on which wall,what angles,should i put slots here bass trap there kind of ideas.
Look around the forum at some of the designs here, and find one that is close to what you need.
Some basic rules of thumb that I've figured out: Your room must symmetrical and rectangular. Your speakers must fire down the long dimension of the room, not across the short dimension. Start by looking at your room ratio, and try to get it away from the "bad" ones and close to one of the "good" ones, by shifting the walls and ceiling around on your design. Once you have that figured out, set your speakers and mix position, and the associated geometry. Your ears go at roughly 38% of the room depth (front to back), your speakers go 1.2m above the floor, at least 1.5m apart, hopefully more. They go at the corners of an equilateral triangle, with your head at the apex. The axes you use for that are the acoustic axes of the speaker, not necessarily the geometric axes. Those axes meet at a point just behind your head, at an angle of 60°, such that the axes just graze you ears. If 1.2m is too low for some reason, you can raise them a bit then tilt them down so the are still facing your head, but the tilt should be no more than 10°, max. Most people here go for soffit-mounted speakers (more correctly called "flush mounted speakers"). If you soffit-mount, then the geometry for the front of the room will take care of itself: soffit panels as wide as possible (speakers in the center, not offset), angled in the exact same way as the speakers themselves. Side walls splayed at 6° each (12° total) assuming that your speaker axes intersect at 60°. Ceiling angled up and away from the front at 12°. The rear of the room isn't as critical, but it's still a good idea to keep it symmetrical if you can. Basic treatment is bass traps in the corners, hard floor, soft ceiling, thick absorption at first reflection points, then additional treatment as required after measuring the room response.
I'd start with that, learn SketchUp well, do a basic but complete and accurate layout for your room, and post it here with specific questions, for more comments.
- Stuart -
