opkod' home studio

Started by opkod on 21 November 2009. 22 replies, 2009–2013. In the Library under Build diaries. Key posts in this thread.

Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 13793.

good luck opkod!! looking forward for other updated photo's..
I'm moving this thread to the construction forum.
John Sayers wrote:
I'm moving this thread to the construction forum.
ok, thanks
I started the bass hanger structure:
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the wood sticked and screwed to the plasterbord made the wall very stiff. I also made a ventilation damped with rockwool (on the top angled attic) I just need more wood to finish the front of the future home studio. I have a question: may I need to make a vent in front of the bass hanger? If yes, how to calculate the surface? I have already made some bass subwoofer and if the vent is not the right value, it don't produce any bass. so if I put a vent in front of the bass hanger, I have to do it in an empirical way? cut an osb panel and hear if it damper or not the sound? I think it will not be so easy as i could think at first... :? bye
Hai opkod, nice build. thanks for the diary and keep it up !
pics update.... 2010
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in 2013, I am updating my homestudio for a better sounding: test:
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then:
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arc measurement:
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It is getting more precision than before... just by moving the Adam P22a of 15cm and adding wood close to the monitor :horse:
You are "sort-of" making a soffit there, so why not actually make one properly? That would help in so many ways... - Stuart -
The other issue is that you cannot correct modal problems with EQ, which is basically what the ARC2 tries to do. Modal problems are time-domain, not frequency domain. There is nothing at all that an equalizer can do to fix problems in the time domain: they can only be treated with acoustic devices in the room itself. - Stuart -
Soundman2020 wrote:
The other issue is that you cannot correct modal problems with EQ, which is basically what the ARC2 tries to do. Modal problems are time-domain, not frequency domain. There is nothing at all that an equalizer can do to fix problems in the time domain: they can only be treated with acoustic devices in the room itself. - Stuart -
That's why I test different solutions to make this room more efficient. If I had the choice, I should build something better. Arc2 is just here to see what happen with adding or removing stuff. I am working to improve my homestudio as possible. more pictures soon :idea:
I'm sorry I didn't catch your "mistake" on the speakerstands earliers. Looks like your soundfield is out of balance. Surround your speaker with mass (known as soffitmounting) will correct the distortion. And it looks like you're doing just that. good work, listen to Stu and keep pix comming :) cheers!
That's why I test different solutions to make this room more efficient. If I had the choice, I should build something better.
It is fun to experiment, but a lot quicker and more effective to just build things that are known to work. If you build proper speaker soffits, you will solve many of the issues that are caused by having speakers close to walls. There's no need to experiment by adding bits of wood one at a time: just build a complete soffit, and you will get the result.
Arc2 is just here to see what happen with adding or removing stuff.
Well, it's not actually showing you what you need to see! It is an RTA, so all that it shows is FREQUENCY response. It does not tell you what you REALLY need to see, which is how the room responds over time. For that, you need proper acoustic analysis software: Download REW and use that. It is free. But even from that ARC2 curve, it seems to me that you have not compensated your speakers for firing into half-space. There seems to be a distinct rise below about 200 Hz, which would be typical of uncompensated baffle step response (power imbalance). So you need to use the controls on the rear of your speaker to roll off -6dB on the bass response. Those look like Adam A7's, so there is a control on the back that is specially meant to do that. It corrects the bass response for speakers that are located close to walls. Set that to -6dB, and you should see and hear an improvement in bass response. - Stuart -
ok, I just didn't understand the meaning of soffit.... so, I'll try to make something better and covering from the top of the P22a to the wall as it always should have be done... :thu:
opkod wrote:
ok, I just didn't understand the meaning of soffit....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soffit It refers, soffit, to the underside of something. As it applies to us the underside becomes the interior side of the membrane. It is still the soffit although a better word might be used. The concern is that, following my thinking, it will exacerbate the issue and unline the typical lexicon as it applies to this specific instance and attempt to realign it with a more convoluted definition. The main issue is that we are talking of things that most know nothing of to begin with as it applies to general construction and then you apply the mystical notion of acoustics and it becomes even more exacerbated. It is an interior upright hard boundary, plain and simple, as applies to this concern :) And soffit is a French word...so you may be telling on yourself :)
Like Brien said: "Soffit" is not really the right word: Technically, this is more correctly called "flush mounting". However, for some unknown reason the term "soffit" seems to have been abducted by the recording studio industry, and that's what it is called these days... - Stuart -
I am still trying to be good Stuart...
I am still trying to be good Stuart...
:) Yep, and you are doing it very well! :yahoo: (I just added that comment to clarify what you were saying.) - Stuart -
Just making it known I am still taking my happy pills...