Hello esteemed studio builders!
I've learned a heck of a lot reading this forum, as well as many books, the best of course being that of Rod Gervais' book.
I am donating my time to an excellent cause, designing the SAG Foundation Don LaFontaine Voiceover Lab located in Los Angeles, CA. This is a non-profit 501c3 organization, and I was chosen to take this on as a friend of Don's and his studio guy. The studio is on the mezzanine level of a five story building on Wilshire Blvd. It is being fit into a vacant suite, so we have no flexibility in overall dimensions.
After over 100 hours of time invested, this is what the architectural renderings of my design are looking like.
I am asking for the eyes and brains of this great group to get my back before I sign off on our drawings as the FINAL plan before construction starts.
If you have any thoughts, I am honored to receive them.
Thanks so much.
Nearing completion of architect drawings for VO studios
Originally posted at johnlsayers.com, topic 13751.
If I had any one comment it would be that when I have my face within 5 inches of the computer monitor it makes me wonder what this looks like on your side...because out here, on a 27inch screen, I can not read the print.
Surely that is not my shortcoming...
Yes, I realize the print is very small. With the restriction of 700x700 pixels, splitting an architectural plan into small enough images that still make sense is indeed a challenge. For this exercise, I would just skip the fine print and look over the images, as I am not sure how else to get this information posted otherwise.
Thanks for caring enough to post!
Oh, and how do you like your new iMac? You can zoom in on the Mac easily by holding the ctrl key and scrolling with the mouse wheel/ball, or two fingers dragged on the Magic Mouse.
Last things first, I do not own a iMac. I do, however, have a G4 that is used for the server in my home network. Second thing next, the fine print is where we most often start an RFI to alert the architect that a conflict of some sort is present or something that requires more information, etc. exists. So the fine print is as important to me as the actual drawing. Just my nickel. download/file.php?id=30727&mode=view On the above linked picture, at the bottom of the print reads "BOOTH" there is a three (or more?) leaf established by the interior double walls and the exterior of the building....I would just skip the fine print and look over the images, as I am not sure how else to get this information posted otherwise. Thanks for caring enough to post! Oh, and how do you like your new iMac? You can zoom in on the Mac easily by holding the ctrl key and scrolling with the mouse wheel/ball, or two fingers dragged on the Magic Mouse.
Sorry, when I saw 27" display i assumed you got the new imac.
Here is the full plan PDF.
That should help considerably!
The 3rd leaf is existing windows that we may not remove.
Been through the plans - still do not have a feeling that your architect has this completely thought out.......
First off - I see plenty of details - but nothing on how the framing is maintained at the points between 2 parallel wall assembllies, would love to see a real detail for each and every possiblle condition - especially for the wall/ceiling mating conditions......
what I see on these prints is typical with normal building conditions - I don't see anything that pays real close attention to room to room isolation other than the window details....... I would expect to see fully developed door sections - Details for the required fire stopping how it ill work without creating a flanking path.
These are just a few of things that point out difficulties that you'll encounter with your builder along the way.......
Rod
Taking notice of partition schedule/legend A1 for the double wall, this should be contiguous, the wall framing/air and the other side of the double wall partition. It is not according to the drawing.
The typical procedure for bracing a metal stud wall is to. attach a piece of metal stud at a 45 degree diagonal, from top of wall plate to bottom of upper deck. This is what your print is reading but this is not what you want, as Rod has already pointed out.
Most, if not all of the connections to the upper deck specified in this drawing are flanking paths. Where your wall creates the three leaf, due to the wall blocking @ that corner is making another flanking path directly to the outside of the building :)
I would also question the (1) piece of sheetrock on the outside of the double framed partition.
Why not (2)?
The schedule for fastening the sheetrock should be modified as well as it increases the rigidity of the wall when typical construction techniques are used.
Those are a few things that came up :)
Thanks for your time
Also, the demo notes do not make any reference to how to handle the existing wall where you are developing the solo booth.
Typical it is to remove the existing sheetrock, install insulation if required, add the second frame for the double partition and sheetrock/ finish the interior.
Otherwise, you are making a three leaf partition there as well.
I do realize that as the designer I probably didn't give them enough detail in a few areas.
Your notes are highly appreciate and will be used.
While we're at it here's a link to the ceiling, power & comm plans.
Man, you guys are amazing...
Thank you so very much!
Are you referring to bracing between the two walls? Something like this? Yes, there is a lack of detail in several key areas I must ensure they address!how the framing is maintained at the points between 2 parallel wall assemblies, would love to see a real detail for each and every possible condition - especially for the wall/ceiling mating conditions......
George, that's one way - another is to let in bracing so that the inner roms becomes structurally free standing....... RodAre you referring to bracing between the two walls? Something like this? Yes, there is a lack of detail in several key areas I must ensure they address!how the framing is maintained at the points between 2 parallel wall assemblies, would love to see a real detail for each and every possible condition - especially for the wall/ceiling mating conditions......
Sorry Rod, what does it mean "to let in bracing"?that's one way - another is to let in bracing so that the inner roms becomes structurally free standing....... RodAre you referring to bracing between the two walls? Something like this? Yes, there is a lack of detail in several key areas I must ensure they address!how the framing is maintained at the points between 2 parallel wall assemblies, would love to see a real detail for each and every possible condition - especially for the wall/ceiling mating conditions......
Historically, a let in brace is a 1 by material that is attached to the framing after the framing has had a pocket cut into the studs, let in as it were in a 45 degree diagonal placement. These days the preferred method is to install a full sheet of 1/2 inch osb [country specific as to if it is OSB or some other plywood product] into the corners of the framing to add lateral rigidity. These are things that are reserved for the exterior of a building, in general. But the application to this type of build is based on the proof that this procedure works against the exterior elements which are far more harsh. You could, especially since you mention metal studs, use the preferred method for that which is a metal strap diagonally placed. But the vertically placed plywood/osb would make a better uniform base layer and achieve the same if not better results as a metal diagonal strap.Sorry Rod, what does it mean "to let in bracing"?
In Max's studio - we sheathed the entire inside of the building with OSB before begining the installation of drywall.
This is one manner - the let in bracing (using 1x3 wood strapping) is the way I handled it in the Phillipian's........
For wood framing there is also a metal bracing made wich is T shaped - you erect and plumb the frames - then (after snapping a chaulk line for control) you cut a small 1/4" to 3/8" saw blade thick slot into the frame - tap in the brace and nail through the fins into the studs......
They also make (as mentioned) flat stock metal to get the job done.
Rod