Two-Car Garage Layout Suggestion

Anything yet fitz? I'm meeting with my builder tonight to discuss the studio plans. :mrgreen:

Anything yet fitz?

Yea, but as usual everything is behind schedule. :roll: Painters are busy as I type. Finish carpenters are still installing doors and trim. Some equipment arrived, and were setting it up for pics. Console will be commissioned next week. Montiormass mounts haven't arrived either. Lots to do still. Heres where we at now. Oh, the Futuresystems Parabolic Diffusers arrived and we just installed them. They had 24 left after the install on the Selfridge Building. :mrgreen:

I'm meeting with my builder tonight to discuss the studio plans.

Ask him if he can build Coffered ceilings. I'll send you a file as soon as I can. fitZ

Well, I'm off to see my builder. This is what I'm taking with me...along with several notes. I figure that these are pretty close to good room dimensions. Between Sepmeyer and the other dude I can't remember. I'm going to shoot for 10' ceilings but might end up with 9' if the cost is too high. I'll build my acoustics to suit the room the building is done. This is really the best I could come up with at this point and time.

did you decide on inside out walls? 1" gap is not alot if so. Pretty simple building do you need a builder? you could wack that up in a weekend. :mrgreen: and will you need to show where the doors are going?

also your exterior wall is brick yeah?? it's only 2 " thick? that doesn't seem right to me. What I'm saying is if you pay for an X by Y size slab, all you get is X by Y minus brick walls minus air gap minus interior wall as a studio space. [edit] Argh I see thats not a full plan? that's showing 2 x timber leafs and your brick wall makes 3 leaves?!?

lilith_envy wrote:

did you decide on inside out walls? 1" gap is not alot if so. Pretty simple building do you need a builder? you could wack that up in a weekend. :mrgreen: and will you need to show where the doors are going?

1" is decent from what I gather...better than nothing, is it not? I wouldn't say I could whack it up in a weekend. There's a bit more that's going into it than my simplistic floor plan really shows.

lilith_envy wrote:

also your exterior wall is brick yeah?? it's only 2 " thick? that doesn't seem right to me. What I'm saying is if you pay for an X by Y size slab, all you get is X by Y minus brick walls minus air gap minus interior wall as a studio space. [edit] Argh I see thats not a full plan? that's showing 2 x timber leafs and your brick wall makes 3 leaves?!?

Yes, the exterior wall is brick. I didn't draw that. I only did the inside floor plan dimensions. My builder can take care of the added thickness from the brick. That's his job to worry about. As far as the leafs...the brick is one leaf but the studs on the brick are simply holding in the insulation. I don't have any drywall on them, which would complete the leaf. That's correct, is it not? Or should I not even worry about insulation on the interior part of the brick? Just bare brick with a moisture barrier? If I lose the stud wall then I can increase my air gap but I'm on a somewhat limited budget because of appraisal concerns and to me, 1" air gap isn't that bad. But I'm open to suggestion.

thank you for explaining. is " an inch or a foot? 10cm is good. :D 1) So the 1st (outer) timber is only holding the the insulation in place. there are simpler fastening systems for that. prob cheaper. 2) the brick is classed as the outer leaf and the 2" stud wall is the 2nd. Still un-sure if you building inside out, but that's fine. So what did you decide on window and garage doors? Sorry I'm having trouble seeing the whole picture. The builder will need the slab size, wall height, brick colour and entry door. Are you still "pretending" this is a garage? Do you need the loan to cover the internal fittings as well? lil

lilith_envy wrote:

thank you for explaining. is " an inch or a foot? 10cm is good. :D 1) So the 1st (outer) timber is only holding the the insulation in place. there are simpler fastening systems for that. prob cheaper. 2) the brick is classed as the outer leaf and the 2" stud wall is the 2nd. Still un-sure if you building inside out, but that's fine. So what did you decide on window and garage doors? Sorry I'm having trouble seeing the whole picture. The builder will need the slab size, wall height, brick colour and entry door. Are you still "pretending" this is a garage? Do you need the loan to cover the internal fittings as well? lil

I'll visit with my builder on what he thinks on the outer leaf where the brick wall is. If he can just slap up some OSB or something there and tack up some insulation, then fine. As long as it's to code and I won't have issues later structurally. What is inside out? I thought I understood what that was but evidently not....here's what I'm doing. From inside the CR, I'll have two layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between. Then 2" stud and insulation. Then a 1" air gap. Then another 2" stud and insulation for the start of the next room. Then 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. That puts me into the live room. That's the proper way, right? The builder is working out the slab size himself. That's what I'm paying him to do. I gave him a floor plan of what I wanted and the way I figure it, it's up to him to get the rest right. He understands what I want. Wall height is going to be 10' or 9'. Whichever I can do from a cost perspective. He's running some numbers for me on this. I probably can't afford anything over 10' because it really starts tacking on the labor. My wife wants it all done from the get-go. That was the deal. My room dimensions with a 10' ceiling are pretty close to being around Sepmeyer and Lounden's (I think those are the names) spec. Brick color will be the same as the house I'm building. Non-issue. Doors were all worked out last night at my meeting. We got double solid core doors everywhere and then when he's done, I'll go through and do some sealing on them. I used the "garage" term a little loosely. It's roughly the size of an over-sized garage, I guess. It's more of a shop, I suppose. There won't be any garage doors if I can get away with it. The only way I'm putting in a garage door is if the appraisal comes back and says it would be worth more as a garage and it's not meeting the cost. Yes, I need the loan to cover most, if not all of, the internal stuff. I'm just too busy to take on any other projects right now...especially building out an entire building. :mrgreen:

morning, So not in-side out, thats fine. I hope he comes back with a resonable price. For the purposes of the forum- did you want to draw in the doors and entry door, Communication between rooms Then we can start playing :mrgreen:

lilith_envy wrote:

morning, So not in-side out, thats fine. I hope he comes back with a resonable price. For the purposes of the forum- did you want to draw in the doors and entry door, Communication between rooms Then we can start playing :mrgreen:

Wish I could. Don't really know how to be honest. Is it as simple as just making the entry points? Cause I can do that. I just don't know how to really draw a door, so to speak. So...since mine aren't inside out, then what exactly is inside out? From the term, I would assume that there's drywall on the inside part of the wall and then insulation facing into the room. Not sure what you'd do with that...

Updated "drawing" with doorways and included some bass trapping. Also, to envy's point...the perimeter where the brick is...would the placing of a stud wall (no drywall) that frames in roll-in insulation create a 3rd leaf? If so, how do I remedy that?

Oh, and roll in pink insulation vs blown in cellulouse? I'm assuming standard roll in pink stuff is better.

Yes roll in, around 45kg /sq m And no that will not make a 3rd leaf without mass.(dry wall)

Any advice on "things to watch out for" when going through this process?

How will walls of the "room within a room" be secured? I'd like something other than sway braces. What about anchor bolts in the concrete slab?

Absolutley! anchor bolts are a must. At least 2 per wall section. I'm still not sold on sway braces, it seems a waste going to all that trouble building seperate frames only to attach them!

http://johnlsayers.com/Pages/Gorini.htm This studio is inside out. It saves space, time and money. And solves alot of the problem small rooms have with standing waves.

lilith_envy wrote:

http://johnlsayers.com/Pages/Gorini.htm This studio is inside out. It saves space, time and money. And solves alot of the problem small rooms have with standing waves.

I still don't know what is meant by inside out. I tried searching for it but got an error that said "inside out" was too common and it wouldn't search for it. You've caught my attention by saying it saves space, time, and money.

Here are the preliminary drawings I just got. Studio on page 2. There are already some changes I'm going to make. For one, it's not supposed to be an 8' plate.

Hi, I'm in the process of a build that is very similar to yours. you may want to take a look at my build thread to see if any of the ideas work for you. Will comment more later, have to go to work. My thread is the Saltwater Studios thread in the construction forum. Have fun, Steve

Cold wrote:

Hi, I'm in the process of a build that is very similar to yours. you may want to take a look at my build thread to see if any of the ideas work for you. Will comment more later, have to go to work. My thread is the Saltwater Studios thread in the construction forum. Have fun, Steve

Thanks, Steve. I'll check out your thread. I appreciate it.

Honestly, I'm starting to wonder if all this headache is worth it for a project studio. I'm considering just having standard construction done but just double up on the 5/8" drywall with some Green Glue in between and be done with it. Possibly a staggered stud plate if necessary... My mind roles when I forget things like mentioning backer rod to my builder, which I'm sure they don't use as a standard procedure. I mean...this is all in the name of sound isolation, right? I'll do some putty pads or sealing on electrical outlets, too, of course. I mean, I'm not going to be creating THAT much noise. I won't have a full band playing at once. At most, I'll have a drum set going or a loud guitar going. That's it. I recorded in my house that I have and I didn't ever get the cops called on me. In fact, I could barely hear anything from upstairs...let alone outside in my driveway. I'll be in the middle of a sub division on a cul-de-sac (sp?) on a pretty large lot. I, honestly, don't envision bothering anyone and the area is not particularly noisy at all. The exterior will be ALL brick. I'm not really worried about sound leak too much, to be honest. I don't think it will be that big of a deal in a project studio where I'm tracking one thing at a time, you know? Acoustics are a product of the treatment used in a room, correct? Does the isolation of a room impact the acoustic properties of said room to the scale that it can't be fixed with proper treatment? Also, assuring that I have proper electrical for recording, too, right? My builder is doing isolated ground for me...and he's going to run the HVAC & water heater power off of the house since that's 240V. The main HVAC will be in the attic above the foyer to reduce it's noise in my recording room(s). I would really GREATLY appreciate opinions and thoughts on this. I want to make the right decisions but I also want to make them in the best interest of my finances and my family while being reasonable about my ambitions with this. I might record bands for money...but this really is, more or less, just a project studio. I don't want to be thinking bigger than what I am able to accomplish reasonably. :cry:

Hi, don't get to bogged down. this is meant to be fun :mrgreen: Doing nothing else but double plasterboard and green glue will give better than standard results. Seperate frames, and to a lesser extent staggered stud, gives better results. http://www.boral.com.au/article/cinemaz ... erProducts Build it like a home cinema with the other things you mentioned and you'll be fine. Keep us up to date with the build and design.

Hi again, I understand your frustration with all of this. Stop, take a deep breath, and figure out what you truly need. I live about 100 ft off of a major hwy. It would drive me nuts having traffic noise in all of my recordings. I also don't like having to watch the clock when playing at night so I don't disturb the neighbours. So I'm building as isolated a building as I can afford to build. If you don't have any inclination of ever recording a whole band at once, or even playing music with a whole band late into the night without worrying about the neighbours, then don't bother going whole hog on the isolation front. This will limit the use of your building though, and adding more isolation after the fact is painful and expensive. Build it the best you can afford....... Regards, Steve

Here's my new floor plan that I'm taking to my builder tomorrow. Thoughts?