Southview Arts New Construction

Hi Folks - I posted initial plans a couple months ago and now am in construction. I am working on education my builder about sound transmission between a sound studio addition to an existing house in VT (USA). We are trying to devise a way to satisfy the need to stabilize the new construction for wind sheer, using the existing house without creating a hard connection, and therefore sound transmission, to the building. The builder discussed wall clips (RSIC-1 Resilient Sound Isolation Clip) with a sales engineer during his research and this system should achieve good results for stopping sound waves transmitting from the wall surface to the framing, but... A concern is, since the wall is built on the new floor system transmission of sound and vibration from the floor into the wall framing – and subsequently to the house (and visa versa from the house to the studio) - transmission will occur if we connect the new framing to the existing house in any way. The builder has devised some clips to use to tie the new wall to the house but we are looking for some verification that twelve of these connections won’t compromise the separation we have worked so hard to maintain. I have attached some photos to show the construction and clips proposed to aid our discussions.

JG, I do not understand the issue - why isn't the builder just constructing this as if it were a stand alone building (which means it braces itself) built an inch or so from the existing building - and then that joint can be treated/sealed with a simple expansion joint - which is not a hard connection to the existing bulding (something I am going to have to cover in the next edition). Rod

Hi Rod - Tip of my hat, love your book and in fact gave it to my builder to read before construction began. I agree with you, and thought it was the plan, but he is concerned because of the height of the building that the structure needs more bracing. Thanks, Jim

Jim, Is he suggesting to you that due to the building height, if your (existing) building did not exist - he could not construct this building - and figure out a way to brace it? That seems absurd to me on the face of it........ I'm looking at the picture of your building - and it's a no brainer from my point of view. If the gable end opposite the existing building is properly braced from a structural point of view - all he has to do is build it's duplicate on the (existing) building side - insulate it and then structurally sheath the inside face of the wall instead of the outside (which is what he should also do with the existing building wall abutting it - this due to the 3 leaf system that the existing sheathing will create once everything is done). Rod

Hi Rod, No he is/was trying to save money. Apparently, even though it has been a mantra (no hard connections between the buildings) everyone always thinks there can be "small exceptions" that won't matter. And, of course, no one likes to be told 'no, you can't do it that way.' But we have all heard this before eh? The builder is fine, and I need to work on my communication skills, and always, always insist on prints. It seems, I will have to now place 8" beams to support the two large roof rafters, sheath the inside of the 2 x 4 wall on the existing house side and it will be fine. Added expense, but fine. Question. Since now we are going to sheath the inside, should I still consider using the clip and hat channel before installing the Sheetrock or will 5/8" over the sheathing be "enough?" Thanks, Jim

Jim, with isolated framing you are always throwing money away if you use clips of any kind - they gain you nothing. As far as drywall layers go - although the wall sheathing will add some mass to the inside - it is not really equal to the drywall mass - my recommendation would be the structural sheathing - plus 2 layers of 5/8" drywall and (if you can afford it) green glue between layers...... Rod

Rod, I am honored. You da man. Jim http://www.southviewarts.com

Jim, nothing to be honored about - I am not anything special......... however, if you had ever had the peasure of meeting my father before he passed on - that would have been an honor - he was a very special man........ Rod

Hi - An update. Plans are moving forward as Rod suggested we are going with (on the house side) interior sheathing, two layers of 5/8" sheet rock and the four cases of Green Glue. http://www.greengluecompany.com/ I'd love to do that all the way around but am worried about budget, and since I am really remotely located it should be ok... Not sure about rain noise on the roof... Another question - the ceiling is getting metal roofing, sheathing, then on the interior 6" of R40 spray foam insulation in a 12" rafter bay. The builder's current plan is to just Sheetrock over the 6" air space. What do we think the empty 6" of air will do? Act as resonate chamber? Should I fill with 6" of pink insulation? Leave empty? Spray foam more? Once the Sheetrock is up I plan on mounting Uni-strut http://www.unistrut.com/ on the surface for maximum flexibility in order to fly audio clouds, track lighting and a grid for theatrical lighting if/when needed. Question: Flush/Soffit mount my Quested H210's and Genelec sub or free stand 6.5' off the front wall? Question: Floor is a wood sprung on serious floor joist system with 5/8" sub flooring. (see photo) Radiant heat system being installed. What to do with the surface? How to make the floor less resonant while not ruining the radiant heating? Thanks, Jim 001-[removed] [removed] Vermont, USA

Very cool!

Thanks! Yours is a super cool space too! Jim