Best way to float a drumkit on a 2nd floor?

Hello Folks, During my studio construction, I've built with my business partner two rehearsal rooms on a 2nd floor in our building (its not over my studio anyway, its a huge 2-house in one) I've posted the design on this forum a while ago. So far, we did some dirty and cheap tests with the drumkits that arrived from our sponsors, and so far we were very pleased with the results we got as far as isolation to the outer world (just a low smuck from the kick drum standing outside, a car driving on the street was quite louder) Hence the problem was the only space available for these two rehearsal rooms were the 2nd floor of the 2nd bulding , we didnt float the floor mostly for budget and space restrictions) This building was already not high enough to loose more space, and we ended with just enough height with the room in a room construction. So whats the problem? There is a lot of airbone flanking on the first floor below the rehearsal rooms. I've spent the past 3 hours reading about floating floors (wether most guys say its too hard to calculate, others say if you're on the 2nd floor, chances are low that you'll get good isolation, and many other responses) So, straight to the point. Any advices on how to improve this? Surely a floating drum-riser would improve vibrations from low frecuencies (maybe?) But im pretty sure that I dont have many options to improve airbone flanking to the first floor. So, at least lets try floating the kick drum, and maybe the bass cabinet so, whats the better way to build a drum riser? Ive found many designs and can't decide on which one to go (rigid insulation below sheets of plywood... wood framing filled with insulation over neoprene plucks, etc) It isnt too bad anyway, so If we're screwed I'll live with it, otherwise, any information or tip will be greatly appreciated Cheers Javier

Aside from either redoing that floor or tearing out the ceiling and deadening her down, you have listed your best options. If the ONLY option is your drum riser, then use a blend of the ideas. Multiple layered plywood/drywall/particle board insulation filled wood framed box floated on pucks.

Ok thanks. The ceiling (1st floor) is a concrete slab so there isnt much ways to beef it up or redoing it.

That bites, so your stuck with redoing the floor or making a riser

If for any reason we ended redoing the floor. will that work considering we arealdy built our room in a room? I was told walls should be put on TOP of a floating floor. In my case, they will be outside the floor in the case we re-do it

Not a perfect situation, but I did that inadvertently before. In your case your walls are on a portion of floor you built, meaning you will get some noise transmission through that wall. BUT by isolating your "new" floor from the existing structure you will reduce GREATLY direct transmission. Did you float the wall on the existing floor or was it directly attached? I may have missed that detail.

No, It was directly bolted to the floor (again, so many readings about "why bothering, if its still connected) Si basically I'd have to build the new floor not touching the existing walls (leaving a gap, like when installing laminated floor for instance) What could be a good lumber/mass solution for not loosing a lot of height ? Like mentioned before, this ceiling was not very high to start with (about 2.5 meters), After the room construction, We ended with like 2.3 meters So, 2x4 would be a distaster, thats already 9-10cm of loss (unless you put the wood on its side, facing the longer side to the floor)

laying the studs on their sides is your best solution to minimizing height loss. You can pull out your existing floor right?? Good Ole Reciprocating saw :) I am revising this to make sure I got it right. You didn't build any floor at all?? If not, this will work. Not the BEST solution, but it will work.

There is no "old floor", its a concrete slab so we built directly over it. We just installed carpet for looks (hey, its a rehearsal room for metal heads hehe) So its just a matter of pulling out the carpet, build the new floating floor and put the carpet back again :mrgreen:

This is what we built

jbassino wrote:

There is no "old floor", its a concrete slab so we built directly over it. We just installed carpet for looks (hey, its a rehearsal room for metal heads hehe) So its just a matter of pulling out the carpet, build the new floating floor and put the carpet back again :mrgreen:

Ok. Got it. Then you have what I am talking about. I did the same thing. Though it was done by accident. Just build a floated floor not touching the walls. Use some acoustical sealant to "seal" the seam between the floor and wall. I understand your loss of height concern.. AT worse case I see you losing 101mm of height. Thinking 1/2" Neoprene, 1.5" Stud laying on side, .75" Plywood, .5" Drywall,. .75" Ply or Particleboard Put in 2" rockwool for insulation. You will get noise transmission down that wall, but it will be nothing like what you have now with that Kick drum directly on the floor.

Thanks a lot Bryan, Everything is a lot more clear now! Should 24" for spacing the pads should be fine? After we do real test with a whole band playing, we'll see if we need to build this floating floor

jbassino wrote:

Thanks a lot Bryan, Everything is a lot more clear now! Should 24" for spacing the pads should be fine? After we do real test with a whole band playing, we'll see if we need to build this floating floor

With the stud laying flat I would go 16" o.c. personally.

You mean 16"oc for the stud framing, or 16" the distance for each neoprene pad (the thing that I asked tho)

jbassino wrote:

You mean 16"oc for the stud framing, or 16" the distance for each neoprene pad (the thing that I asked tho)

Neoprene Pads