JB's New Studio, the build thread

Keep up the good work, man!

More progress Gypsum stage now. CR/LR window looking much better now huh? Next step is sanding and ready to paint

John, or anybody: I'm drilling a hole between rooms to send the snake cable. I bought a 40mm PVC pipe that i will put inside. then run the snake cable through it.. Am I screwing things up here?

that should be fine

More questions: About tile ceilings: - I'm going to put acoustic tile ceilings on my control room (also called "American Ceiling" here in Chile). First I will remove the existing ceiling (that is very weird!) , put insulation somehow, and then a tile ceiling below it. - To maintain a visual coherency, I thought about puting the same ceiling on the recording room. Since its going to be built inside out, I'm a little worried about finishing it with fabric/cloth, because its going to be hard to get a nice finish, and also its complicated to attach lights etc. So. will a tile ceiling act as a 3rd leaf and fuck things up? (they are made of a very soft material, similar to rigid fiberglass). Using that as the "visual" ceiling in the recording room, it will be much easier to attach lights and what not. even the in/out duct grids My first impression is that it shouldnt become a problem, but I'd like your opinion on this. Comments?

Anyone? Anyway. I built the door Ro designed with a few modifications. First, I didnt make it of 3 layers of 22 MDF. instead I used 2 9mm MDF for top and bottom, and two 25mm MDF layers in the middle. I used a 2x4 stud on the hinge side. Furthermore, I placed one 4mm high density acoustic vynil called MAD (its super heavy) in between. Also. Installed a ZERO bottom seal system, that seals the bottom when you close the door, so you dont make a bottom seal. Its a 72mm door! It looks promising and weights like a moth......

jbassino wrote:

More questions: About tile ceilings: (they are made of a very soft material, similar to rigid fiberglass).

Seems more like it will be an extension of the ceilings ability to absorb. Like you mentioned, even if it is a 3 leaf, it isn't significant. Where's your help at?

Where's your help at?

Miserably sick in bed for the past few days... :( . Feeling a little better today, and hoping to get across to Javier's place to give him a hand tomorrow or Thursday.

You get better now, your the best help he's got ;)

Sick? too bad!! I thought the earth ate you, so I kept working! I have a record to finish so I have to make this soon Well, I paid the workers to build the framing for me, for a reasonable price When I cut the door with the circular saw I got, i realized how much work and experience is required to get ACCURATE cuts so everything looks and works good. They did such an excelent work with the sealing and finishing that they will assure I will get a great framing We still have lots of work tho Stuart!

jbassino wrote:

Anyone? Anyway. I built the door Ro designed with a few modifications. First, I didnt make it of 3 layers of 22 MDF. instead I used 2 9mm MDF for top and bottom, and two 25mm MDF layers in the middle. I used a 2x4 stud on the hinge side. Furthermore, I placed one 4mm high density acoustic vynil called MAD (its super heavy) in between. Also. Installed a ZERO bottom seal system, that seals the bottom when you close the door, so you dont make a bottom seal. Its a 72mm door! It looks promising and weights like a moth......

pix or it didn't happen :) Sound cool, is that the same "drop treshold" as Lou used on his doors? (the rubberstrip drops down when closing the door). They are cool, I didn't draw them in my design but I use that too. pix, pix PIIXIXXXXXIIXXIXIXIXX!! :shot:

I will take pics today. Promise! I left my SD card in my laptop on a side note... its funny how workers suggest funny things like "hey, lets attach some wood between the inner leaf and the existing wall so its more stable" and im like " :shock: ummm noo! " Yeah. I bought the "heavy duty" bottom seal. Dunno why. But I dont have much faith on it !! Im pretty sure after I close the door the seal wont come down very tightly... we'll see

jbassino wrote:

Yeah. I bought the "heavy duty" bottom seal. Dunno why. But I dont have much faith on it !! Im pretty sure after I close the door the seal wont come down very tightly... we'll see

You can always add another treshold (as per my design)

Whoops! Forgot to bring my camera :D Tomorrow I'll take pics... Now.. I placed 6mm osb over my wooden floor in the control room. and Stuart and I realized that it became a kick drum ! :shock: If you kick the floor you notice a good resonant frecuency... so. we were thinking about puting 15mm plywood over it.. and then the laminated floor Thats for now.. I start framing tomorrow Budget is extremely tight now.. things i didnt realize would cost much.. did cost a lot! damn it.. anyone wants to give me money? lol cheers

Whoops! Forgot to bring my camera :D Tomorrow I'll take pics...

Well, at least I can confirm that progress is taking place! I saw it myself! And I also listened to your new "drum floor" in the control room... :) Hmmmm. The problem seems to be that the underlying original floor is just wood strips (maybe tongue-and-groove?) on top of joists, over an empty space, and when you added that thin layer of OSB to level it, that somehow made matters worse. Maybe it somehow raised the resonant frequency of that MSM system. That would be my guess. That's why I'm thinking that a layer of 18 mm plywood should help, since it is massive and fairly rigid, and should bring down the frequency, as well as giving you a better surface for laying the laminate flooring But I'm hoping that someone else here might be able to come up with a better idea, or at least confirm that this one will work! Javier's budget is getting stretched a bit already, so we sure don't want to do the plywood thing if it isn't going to help. Any other suggestions? Agree / disagree with the plywood idea? Is 18 mm too much / not enough? - Stuart -

Second on what Stuart said... I need to progress on the CR also so I need to know either I will just live with it or fix it somehow.. However. I received some laminated floor samples (8mm) and it looked pretty rigid tho... Anyway Pixxxxxxx :yahoo: Door looks like crap for now , but I will finish it with some thin layers of stained plywood. it will look much better ;) Framing started! It was a pain in the ass all those little details

Framing (it isnt attached to the ground yet.. we are just placing them to see how it works first) We had to make little adjustments from John's design because there was a mistake when I did the sketchup. as you can see in the pics. the window concrete wall is a little bit different, but it wont matter ;) the concept will remain the same Also. we made some mistakes. we didnt left enough space above the ceiling for the duct ! (160mm) so we have to cut all the framing that was built ceiling-size.. no big deal !

Also. John. or anybody For the control room. I will probably put two hangers in my back wall. use my existing 6 bass trap panels, create an angled, absorptive ceiling, but I dont know what to do with my front wall. The common thing would be to build a couple of superchunks from floor to ceiling, but.. thats gonna cost me quite some money! What other options do I have? My budget is really , really, reallly tight

finally, pix :mrgreen: No pix of the construction progress on the door? too bad.. :( Bout the corner absorber, superchunks are not the only solution. It's my favorite, but it's also expensive (much wool, much low end absorption, much $) You can also erect a single (or double) panel across the corner. Needs to have some thickness in order to absorb low end. 4" is a starting point. Have you checked the acoustic forum, yet? Read it u-down. back and forth. You'll notice some different ways to create bass (corner) traps.

Hey Ro: Any comment on the CR floor problem? Do you think the layer of 18mm plywood will do the trick? That's the big issue right now: Javier needs to get the CR done soon, as he has a job coming up real soon. The floor issue is kind of holding him back, so any thoughts you can offer would be appreciated! - Stuart -

Would you guys benefit from installing sheetrock onto the existing floor and then laying your OSB over this? Any direct connection between multiple layers of wood products on a floor always presents the opportunity for rubbing, or squeaking, which is why a layer of 15# felt is used between wood substrate and hard wood flooring. You could benefit from the additional mass of 15# felt between the layers as well. The next issue would be how high will this make the transition between floors from this room to the others, if the floor is elevated in this or any type of manner.

what about a carpet? or maybe you can put a pillow inside your kick drum :D :shot:

is there a way to remove the elevated floor? Mass will lower the coincidence dip, so yeah adding GB, MDF, lead or any heavy stuff onnit will help. Remember, more thickness equal more mass. How much space can you loose? I'd go for a 32mm MDF sheet (it's expensive, I know but it's super heavy)

Would you guys benefit from installing sheetrock onto the existing floor and then laying your OSB over this? Any direct connection between multiple layers of wood products on a floor always presents the opportunity for rubbing, or squeaking,

Great idea, Brien! Thanks! I hadn't thought about the "squeaking" issue, but that makes sense. So how about this sequence: The existing layer of OSB - felt - drywall - felt - plywood - laminate floor underlay - laminate floor. Do you think that would work OK? Or should we also take up the existing OSB and put another layer of felt under it, on top of the original wood floor?

The next issue would be how high will this make the transition between floors from this room to the others, if the floor is elevated in this or any type of manner.

Good point. There is already a slight difference in height due the 6mm OSB, so that's going to increase to a total of about 30 mm, so I guess we can just make it into a kind of "mini-step", and also use it as part of the seal for the bottom of the door. Paint it bright yellow, or something, so people notice it. I'm not worried about ceiling height, as Javier's current ceiling is over 9´6", so there is space up there. Thanks for the suggestions, Brien! - Stuart - BTW, Brien, here's a good laugh for you! The building laborers proposed that it would be just fine to use 2x3 joists, 24" OC, to hang the ceiling over Javier's practice room. The span is roughly 4.5 METERS, and we plan to have two layers of 5/8 drywall up there.... :shock: But they thought it would be great! No problem! Ain't it fun working with folks who have no idea! Fortunately we stopped them in time, and it is now 2x8, 16" OC. Then they thought it would be fine to hang those 2x8 joists (plus a few hundred kg of drywall), on top of a 2x3 stud wall..... AAAARGH!!!! :)

Instead of OSB I suggest MDF. It has a higher density (500 vs 700 kg/m3)