door standard / wall frame detail - advice required

so, i think i may have a bit of a problem. my joiner has built my internal door and standards independantly from the timber frame internal leaf so as to keep it plumb (see attached drawing). this made me worry a bit of soud leakage around the frame. will filling this void with insulation/foam and filling it with sealant to the line of the plasterboard be a good idea? there will then be a skim coat of plaster and also timber door facing going over. any questions, ideas or help appreciated. cheers, mark.

I believe the gap around a door frame is common and unavoidable. Just fill any open spaces with fiberglass and/or foam and caulk- making it airtight. If the rest of your wall construction and door seals are in good shape, it won't compromise the sound isolation that much. This is my experience, anyway... There are diagrams around that show the backer rod and caulk filling all gaps.

yeah, cool, cheers! i think ill just bash on upon this basis. just needed a bit of encouragement. lol (rubber, air tight) door seals are the next issue. where can i get these from?

JC Whitney sells trunk rubber that is popular for door seals, but if you're using two doors, just get some exterior door weather stripping for both doors- if installed correctly that should suffice. For my build I have two doors. One is an exterior door with standard weather stripping and it's airtight. IT was the old door to the garage. The other door was a Rod Gervais "superdoor" I built (but without the sheet lead). I bought a threshold for it but didn't even have to use it since the other door was so well sealed. I'm think that two doors are better than one since it provides a bit of a safety net for us DIY'ers...between the two you should get one good seal- LOL. That's my experience. YMMV

studio_drums wrote:

JC Whitney trunk rubber for door seals

ill check it out but...

studio_drums wrote:

exterior door weather stripping for both doors

...this is probably more than likely what ill do! ;-)

studio_drums wrote:

but without the sheet lead

i wonder why? lol

studio_drums wrote:

a bit of a safety net for us DIY'ers...

ill also need a crash helmet and an ambulance on stand by... lol

It's GM trunk rubber, actually. But it has to be purchased from JC Whitney. The type of rubber is is Rod Gervais' book. But yes, avoid dealing with them if you can- online catalog does not match with printed catalog- they will send you the wrong stuff- many horror stories out there... Sheet lead is prohibitively expensive and luckily was unnecessary in my case.

nailing sheet lead to a timber door sounds a bit extreme to me. lol.

So is pouring an isolated concrete pad to rest one's 'room-within-a-room' on... :)

holy sh!t, you poured a new slab? :lol:

elektrasoul wrote:

nailing sheet lead to a timber door sounds a bit extreme to me. lol.

You don't nail the sheets, you glue them and sandwich in between the door parts.

F.A.O. studio_drums looking at your latest pics, i just wondered how you built your corner bass traps, as your room width looks pretty much the same as mines. can you point me to some useful pages? cheers again... also, quick update while im here: my doors are all insulated & caulked around. the weatherstrips (as heavy and airtight as we can find) are being fitted tomorrow.

I stacked 2" thick Owens-Corning 703 cut into triangular pieces from floor to ceiling(54 of them!), then built a homemade speaker grill which I nailed directly to the wall. Doesn't get any simpler. A typical 2x4 foot piece of 703 can be cut into 8 triangles. You can also do a google search for "superchunk" corner bass traps, as they're called. I have a bass trap build thread that's more popular than the stickies, according to the # of views, if you're interested: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10297

nice one, cheers. ive got a bit of insulation leftover that i thought i could probably use.